THURSDAY MAY 7TH 2009 – DRUMMOND COVE, GERALDTON KALBARRI - DAY 59
We pack up and just before we leave we have a visit from Jan and Alan who are heading north also. They will 'see us on the road somewhere' and head off. We are getting much better at this and it takes us about ½ an hour to pack up and be on the road.
About 50kms north of Geraldton is Northampton a lovely historical town with friendly country charm. It is one of the oldest settlements in Western Australia so we stop here for a short visit and to buy fresh coffee before taking the turnoff to Kalbarri.
The drive north is very uneventful and we stop on the way to take in the magnificent views at the various lookouts along the way and the fascination of how nature has shaped the dramatic coastline of Eagle Bluff, Pot Alley, Eagle Gorge and Mushroom Rock.
The site as we were approaching Kalbarri was again breathtaking. I keep saying that word to describe so many scenes here in the west.
We drive through the small village to find the Murchison Caravan Park, one we have been recommended and that will take dogs.
The site we are given is very tight and a very difficult one to manouvre our Princess into. I am not feeling so confident on this one, and as its is quite a crowded park, I am uneasy with the many eyes that are on me. Anyway, after about 4 attempts (and one where I had come very close to the park stone fence) I eventually get the van in.
Jan and Alan are just arriving here and witness my difficulty. I am clearly not happy with this park but it will do for the 2 nights that we have booked. It within walking distance across the road from the beach so that is a plus.
We set up camp and head to the water for a swim. Despite being refreshing and nice it is not as nice as the beach we were at, at Jurien Bay however it will do.
Sunset as usual is gorgeous and we join Jan and Alan with our wine to sit on the bench overlooking the bay. We make arrangements to go to 'Natures Window' at dawn the next day. We will meet at the gate of the caravan park at 5:45am.
FRIDAY MAY 8TH 2009 – KALBARRI W.A. -DAY 60
Our alarm clock wakes us at 5:15am. We are not used to getting up at this hour since we have been away so it is a little shock to the system.
We meet Jan and Alan as arranged and each in our 4 x 4 vehicles drive to the National Park, pay our entry fee and drive the 50kms to the turn off to the 'Window'.
It is still dark so we have to be cautious of wild animals including 2 kangaroos who are as startled by us as we are of them. As Alan is the lead driver he warns us of what lies ahead.
Our first stop is 'The Loop' which provides different views of the winding gorge below and a short walk of 400 metres from where we park is a natural rock arch which superbly frames the upstream view. This is called Natures Window and it is here we witness the magnificent sunrise catching the dazzling colours of the cliff and rock faces with a tapestry of dazzling colour enhancing the various rock and cliff faces below.
This is the best time of the day to be here and the early 'wake up call' was well worth it.
We head back to town to enjoy breakfast and coffee at the Black Rock Cafe in town.
The rest of the day is spent around camp and swimming in the ocean nearby before joining Jan and Alan for fresh cooked local fish and chips for dinner.
SATURDAY MAY 9TH 2009 – KALBARRI TO DENHAM – W.A. - DAY 61
We leave here today as our next major stop is to be Carnarvon which is just under 500kms north and we want to have a look around Denham and Shark Bay before then so as we are not sure where we will spend the next couple of nights we leave here to begin the journey.
We bid our farewells to Jan and Alan who have had a problem with birds overnight. Their annexe is littered with bird droppings as they camped under trees. Alan is busy brushing the droppings off with soap and water and to Jan's alarm his little nail brush. Oh well! Whatever will do the job.
They are not sure whether they will stay here another night (as they have booked) or to leave here and head north as we are. We arrange that we will see them 'somewhere on the road'!!!
As we are taking the driving easy, sitting on 80kms per hour, we will find a spot for the night before dark.
We drive inland a bit before joining the North West Coastal Highway. The scenery is a little monotonous so I doze and sew my patchwork while Nick drives. All of a sudden we feel the vehicles begin to vibrate and on stopping and investigation find the left hand tyre on the Princess has completely shattered. We pull off the road into as safe a position as any and begin the awful task of changing it.
I am a bit useless at these things (and changing tyres is certainly not in my job description) so whilst I am happy to help, hold, pull, hammer, or kick whatever he instructs me to do I make myself scarce. After about an hour, and with some difficulty with our Jack we decided the best thing to do is to unhook the van from the car and one of us drive to the nearest roadhouse to purchase a new one. Although I haven't seen the movie, Wolf Creek, the story runs through my mind but we have no other option.
Just as we are about to unhook Nick looks around and here are Jan and Alan parking their car behind us. Someone must be looking down on us as they couldn't have arrived at a better time.
Alan, being a far more seasoned camper than Nick had just the right equipment and before long we had the spare tyre on and were making our way to the next roadhouse (about 5 kms away)!
Our well laid plans to arrive at a camp in daylight certainly went out the window as we now were heading towards Denham about 60kms away and as we could see the sun slowly setting over the ocean we could guage that we wouldn't arrive during daylight which makes it that much harder to set up in the dark. Nevertheless, we pushed on.
Jan and Alan decided they would probably head to wards the National Park for the next few days so would keep in contact with our mobile phones. Thank god for them I say!!
We arrive into Denham just as the sun is setting over the ocean, a magnificent sight but the task ahead of us at the moment is more important to find a camp for the night.
There are a couple of caravan parks here but I can remember from our last trip in 2005 one that was right on the beachfront with magnificent views of the bay so, despite the impending darkness we drove to find it.
When we did we were given, I think, the best site in the park. Overlooking the ocean, and no one either side of us. Perfect! We booked here for 3 nights with an option to extend. There was an almost full moon rising also so this site at dusk with the sun just set on the ocean was magical.
It didn't take us long to set up camp and while Nick was doing the finishing touches I headed into town to find a take-away for dinner. I certainly wasn't going to cook at this time of night.
There is the Shark Bay Fishing Fiesta here for this week so this tiny town is buzzing with
many fishing enthusiasts. There are a couple of tents along the beachfront with BBQ's and a band playing and the couple of restaurants are overflowing with diners.
I buy hamburgers and take them back to camp where we enjoy them overlooking the ocean.
SUNDAY MAY 10TH 2009 (MOTHER'S DAY) – DENHAM W.A. - DAY 62
I am overwhelmed by this place. We came through Denham on our way to Monkey Mia on our 2005 trip and whilst I thought it was a really pretty little seaside village we didn't really have time to stop and look around. Also the weather at that time, despite having lovely sunny days the temperature was getting cooler.
This is a perfect time of year to be here. Up to 29 degrees during the day but no humidity and a very very slight breeze blowing.
I wake up to an absolutely magical sight. We have a panoramic view across the bay (Shark Bay) and with the turquoise ocean and white white sand its breathtaking.
At 6am (our time – 9am Eastern time) I receive a text message from Danny, Tash and Kirra wishing me a happy Mother's Day. I have been trying to phone them since they texted me the message of their 'baby' news! Our telephone service has been very much spasmodic so I will try and phone them tonight hopefully with better luck.
I then get a phone call from Mitch and Chelsea. In such an idyllic place my only wish is that my children could be with me to share this lovely day. But that's not to be so will just have to be grateful of hearing their voices. I am missing them very much!!!
I make a couple of phone calls to Lois my sister-in-law to wish her a happy Mother's Day and to friends Shannon and Sue Cross who lost their Mother (and father ) earlier in the year. The 'first' anniversaries of these occasions are always the hardest, as I experienced last year, so I just wanted to let them know I was thinking of them.
Nick decides he wants to have a swim and sit on the beach for a while so I sit in my new 'office' overlooking the ocean and boats while I update this blog, and write a few cards. I think I could spend a few weeks here - will just have to convince Nick.
MONDAY 11TH MAY 2009 – DENHAM W.A. - DAY 63
I pack a picnic lunch and as we decide to do some exploring of this area. We won't go to any National Parks so Lucy comes with us.
First stop is the Tourist Information Centre where we decide on doing a boat trip out to Dirk Hartog Island tomorrow. We try to book but there is no answer at the moment so we ask the attendant behind the counter if she could arrange it all for the next day and we will call in to get the details on our return from Nanga Bay.
There is a lovely drive with many things to see on the way so we head south towards Nanga Bay about 50kms away.
Shell Beach is an amazing pure white beach that has been created naturally from hundreds of millions of tiny sea shells ( Fragum cockles – thought to be up to 4000 years old) that grow in profusion in L'Haridon Bight extending 120kms along the coastline. Compacted shell has been quarried for building blocks best displayed at the Old Pearler Restaurant in Denham where we plan to have dinner on Thursday night.
Eagle Bluff about 20kms south of Denham is first stop and there has been a boardwalk erected along the sea front. It is perched high above the bay, allowing us uninterrupted views across Shark Bay to useless Loop and we see many rays swimming but we spot a small reef shark. The views are breathtaking.
We get to Nanga Bay which is on the western side of Peron Peninsula and is a peaceful location with access to lovely calm waters. Once an operating pastoral station, part of the station has been converted into a tourist resort with full accommodation and recreational facilities and the remainder has been purchased for conservation.
There is a lovely shaded area about 3 metres from the beach with an old table and chairs. This is where we decide to set up our picnic. It is lovely and we let Lucy off her lead to run on the beach and dip her toes into the crystal clear water.
While we are here another couple in their 4 wheel drive pull up not far from us to have a swim. They are a delightful couple and we spend about an hour chatting to them. They are 'locals' from Mandurah and often come here to holiday. They love the natural beauty, the warm waters and the peace and quiet. They give us some good tips on where we should go when heading north we finish our picnic and head back to Denham via The Tourist Information Centre to get the details of our trip planned for tomorrow.
TUESDAY 12TH MAY 2009 – DENHAM W.A. - DAY 64
We rise early and decide we will leave Lucy tied up on her longer lead outside the van for the day. Although it will be a long day at least she will be able to have some room to move around and if it gets too hot she can lie underneath the van. I will make sure to leave her a big bone which will occupy her for a while. She also has a basket of toys which she likes to play with so hopefully that will keep her busy.
It is a short distance down to the Wharf where we see our magnificent cruiser and meet our 2 guides, Stacey (Guide, first mate, and cook), and Mike Skipper and Guide).
The boat trip takes 1 ½ hours to get to Dirk Hartog Island and while the seas are relatively calm it makes a very enjoyable trip.
For the next four hours we visit the old shearing shed and the homestead before departing in 1 of the 2 x 4 wheel drive vehicles heading across the dunes to the blowholes while learning the history of the island.
Our travelling companions are a gorgeous girl by the name of Toby and 2 guys, Jon and Gavin. They are in a band called “Toby” and accompanying them is their friend and 'Manager' Kate. They are great fun and as they are schoolfriends of our guide Stacy, Nick and I feel we are getting a more personalised service.
“Toby” are on a tour of the West Coast at the moment and are, in a few weeks going to Canada and the United States to tour. I am really keen to hear them so I will get their tour dates when we get back to land.
This island was the first piece of Australia visited by Europeans when Captain Dirk Hartog arrived on the 'Eendracht' on October 25th, 1616. He announced his arrival by nailing an inscribed pewter plate to a wooden post at the site now known as Cape Inscription.
The blowholes were spectacular with some amazing scenery where spray would shoot some 20 to 30 feet into the air. We got some fantastic photos at this point.
We learned of the wildlife protection project (Project Eden) on the island where they are trying to re-introduce animals such as mallee fowl, bilbies, echidna, woylie, bunarra and threatened grasswren birds. The only way they can achieve this is to rid the island of foxes and feral cats and the sheep and goats. They have exported overseas many, but the remaining sheep and goats are shot and killed by Department of Environment wildlife officers. It is sad to see the carcasses remaining but as these animals eat and destroy the vegetation which is needed to sustain the endangered fauna. It is all part of 'nature'.
We then go to a location where we view Steep Point which is the most westerly point on the mainland in the country. This area also features the magnificent Zuytdorp Cliffs towering up to 170m above sea level. The Zuytdorp (pronounced Zurtoff) Cliffs that begin at Kalbarri to the South and end at Steep Point make for some amazing scenery.
After a delicious lunch and swim in the crystal clear water we head back to the homestead before boarding the boat to take us back to the mainland. Once there the girls give me a pamphlet with the band tour dates and hopefully when we are in Exmouth or Coral Bay we will see them at the local venue.
I touch base with Jan and Alan who have been further north and are heading out to the National Park for a few days. We will see them in Coral Bay or Exmouth next Wednesday after we have been to Carnarvon, Quobba Station and Red Bluff where they have been to already.
After our long day out Lucy is happy to have us both here together so after dinner we watch some TV and have an early night. I try to phone our daughter in law Natasha for her birthday but with no luck so will text her. She works for Qantas so could be overseas. I will keep trying.
WEDNESDAY 13TH MAY 2009 – DENHAM W.A. DAY 65
This morning we drive over to the Industrial Area where we will get a 'nut' for our caravan tyre that we have lost somewhere along the way. We also have to get our caravan brake cable fixed as it snapped when we shattered the tyre a few days ago. We speak to a man who does this but he cannot fit us in until Thursday or Friday so we will have to hang around here at Denham until then.
While in this area we have been told the local Fish Co-Op have lovely fresh local fish so I buy 500grams of Shark Bay Whiting which I will cook tonight. It is so fresh!
I slipped while on the boat yesterday and have pulled a muscle behind my knee. Although not debilitating it is quite painful so I decide to spend the day around camp, with ice and hot packs to relive some of the pain.
We have plenty of washing to do so we do that and then spend the rest of the day sewing my patchwork. Lucy is happy to have us around and with some walks close by and a swim in the afternoon we enjoy the peace.
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