

FRIDAY 22ND MAY 2009 – DENHAM W.A. - DAY 74
With heavy hearts and uncertainty of what may lie ahead we pack up early to take the Princess out to the local Industrial Area to leave her with Lee, the Steel Fabricator who will fit the new axle . He says the job will take most or all day and he will phone us when it is ready. We unhook and leave her in his trusty hands.
Downtown, where we have become so used to we head to the local coffee shop. We begin to throw some ideas around as to what will be our next move. We are keen to go over to New Zealand to spend some time with our friends and if we were at home we would probably be on the next plane. However, as we are as far west on the Australian continent as one could be and flights from here are very rare or even non existent we are not quite sure what to do.
I phone Jan as I want to share with her the news of Jane (we all spent time together at Kingscliff at the end of our trip in 2005) and as we headed home Jane and Peter spent some extra days there and saw quite a bit of Jan and Alan. Jane always said Kingscliff was her favourite place and if things were different she they would buy a house and live there!!! Unfortunately, it was not to be.
Jan and I shed many tears together and she is no doubt feeling the pain of the thought of losing a lovely friend..
She suggests we drive straight up to Darwin and fly to Wellington from there!!!
After our coffee we decide to phone New Zealand and within moments the phone is answered, as usual by a cheery voice. It's Jane and I have to be strong to hold back tears and heavy emotions. I tell her how shocked we were to get her email and we thought we would like to abandon this part of our trip and head across to see her. In her usual cheerful but persuasive way she said quite definitely 'No'! It was too far and that at the moment she said she gets very tired and would rather we remember her the way we had last seen her. Cheerful, giggling, happy and not a care in the world. She would rather we be here for Peter when the time came. What could I say!!!
She wanted us to keep in touch frequently and that Peter would phone us and let us know as soon as 'it' happened. In her unselfish manner she was far more worried for Peter than herself. I hung up, feeling sad, trying to keep the sound of her voice etched in my memory.
Nick, Lucy and I spent the rest of the day taking long walks on the beach together, now and then feeling a sense of sadness interrupted by laughter and lovely reminders of when we were with Jane and Peter on our last trip. We are sure our little Lucy (Lucinda Jane) (named after our friend Jane) can feel our pain too!!!!
By 4pm we phone Lee (who is fixing our van) and he tells us we can pick her up at 5pm. We are elated and decide that we will drive north to Hamelin Pool to spend the night at the campground there before heading off next morning early for Carnarvon.
Luck is certainly not on our side and when we arrive Lee tells us he is not happy with the way the axle is and needs to do some more work on it. He suggests we can sleep in her for the night in his huge shed – it may be a bit noisy but its at least somewhere to stay, especially as it will be hard to find somewhere to leave Lucy.
I begin to make some frantic phone calls. It is 5 to 6 and I notice the Tourist Information Centre closes at 6pm so I make a phone call to them. A lovely lady by the name of Glenda answers the phone and as I tell her of our predicament and that we need to find accommodation she tells me 'nowhere here takes dogs'!!!! She gives me the name of 3 places who might have vacancies but I would need to assure them that Lucy WOULD sleep in the car!!
The first place I phone is the Caravan Park where we have spent the last 2 weeks. They have onsite cabins so I let them know we need one and I assure them that Lucy will stay in the car overnight. The lady tells me they have just let out their last one and they have nothing left!! The next place I phone is the Denham Oceanfront Cabins and speak to a man by the name of Paul. I tell him our plight and that we are desperate. He says he has 1 last cabin left, the dog is not a problem the only hiccup is that he is hosting a fishing BBQ that our cabin is right next to so might be a bit noisy! I tell him as we are desperate we will be happy with anything. We will see him in 15 minutes.
When we arrive there are many fishing boats outside each cabin and Nick pays the $90-00 (he gets a $10-00 note for change, or rather ½ a $10-00 note which, we are sure by accident, has been torn in half. We decide not to say anything as we think $100-00 a night for the accommodation is worth it.
The rain is setting in so we move into our cosy cabin (Lucy discreetly under our arm) and make ourselves comfortable for the night ahead.
There is no way Lucy is going to be content sleeping in the car. She begins to whimper!!! Nick goes to get her and it is not long before she is snuggled up in her bed with her blanket in front of the warm cosy heater.
I make yummy pumpkin soup which we have with warm crusty bread, perfect for this type of weather and despite the noise from the people at the BBQ next door and the wind and the rain outside it is quite comforting to know we will spend the night in this warm cosy environment.
SATURDAY 23RD MAY 2009 – DENHAM TO CARNARVON W.A. - DAY - 75
After a blissful and very comfortable night we pack up and drive to our favourite cafe, Azure, for breakfast. It is still raining and cold so we enjoy a hot cooked breakfast and coffee and make our way to see our friend Lee and hopefully pick up the van.
She is ready!!!! We take the van for a quick drive around the block and all seems in order so we pay the bill, bid our thanks and farewells to Lee and his team and with raised spirits we make our way to the highway. We want to stop in at 'Gladstone' a campground Jan and Alan stayed at and said it was one of the prettiest campsites they had stayed at so far.
We came across a sign on the highway that said 'Gladstone' 6kms (on a dirt road)!!! We turned off the road and found the 'gate' - 'OFF RD. RECOVERY $550 Ph: 99481141 (Phone available 20kms up the road)!!!!
Jan and Alan said don't be put off by this sign and just enter the gate (making sure to close it afterwards). With our luck so far (tyres shredded, and cracked axles) we entered with trepidation and hoped that what we found was worth it.
We were not disappointed as the campground was lovely and we were amused at the sign “Thank You from the Shire of Carnarvon the cost of $1-00 per person per night. Jan had told us Alan was wondering if they give a 'Seniors Discount'!!!!
The campground was Clean, spacious, well kept and right on the edge of the calmest, prettiest part of the Indian Ocean. We were too early to camp for the night so we decided to have lunch which was just as enjoyable. Lucy enjoyed running up and down the beach and we were in 2 minds as to stay but then decided we would keep going and head north, past Carnarvon and onto Quobba Station and Blowholes about 200kms away.
The distance between towns and roadhouses here in Western Australia is very long and vast with not much to see along the way. We arrived into Carnarvon at around 5:00pm so brought some necessary supplies (Cointreau and lemons for my Margarita) among other things and headed north (70kms) to the Quobba Blowholes.
The sun was setting at around 5:50pm so it was necessary for us to get to the campground before it got too dark. Night was setting in very quickly so setting up camp in the dark was not a thought we really wanted to entertain. So, by the time we got to a huge sign 'Big Waves Kill' and darkness that had set in we were really concerned. We took the dirt road to the left (and as we could hear the loud noise of the ocean) we presumed we were in the right place.
There were many caravanners very close together along what we presumed the ocean cliff. It was very dark with no lights and it was difficult to see so we found a spot which was not great but suitable even for only the night and began to set up.
Being a campground we had no power so had to use our battery. Well! We turned the lights on and 'nothing'! We checked everything and 'nothing'! Our new battery that we had fitted when we left home almost 3 months ago was faulty. What were we to do. We were so looking forward to spending the night here, cooking by our open fire while sitting watching the night skies lighting up the millions of stars on this very clear night. It was not to be!
It was close to 7pm so we made a hasty decision to drive back to Carnarvon – 70kms away and check into a caravan park which we did. Unbeknown to us we found ourselves at the same caravan park we stayed at back in 2005 when we were travelling with Jane and Peter.
With no further dramas we checked in, found a perfect spot and spent a relaxed night, although not under the stars as we had hoped, compensation was that we had power (with TV) and clean amenities close by.
SUNDAY 24TH MAY 2009 – CARNARVON W.A. – DAY 76
Being the weekend we had a very slow day and spent the day washing, cleaning and catching up on some much needed jobs in the van.
The weather was lovely but not quite warm enough to swim so we spent the day walking and re-visiting places we had been to when we were here on our last trip in 2005.
MONDAY 25TH MAY 2009 – CARNARVON W.A. - DAY 77
Being Monday and armed with our list of things to do we drove the short distance into town and the first stop was the post office. I was keen to get the mail as I hoped my lost keys would have arrived from Perth.
I was in luck. They had arrived so going back to the car, I decided to use my original keys to start the car.
Nothing!!!! It seemed we had a problem with the ignition. After many attempts with no luck we decided to phone the local Mitsubishi Truck Dealer (they were the closest thing to a Mitsubishi Car Sevice Centre here in Carnarvon. The kind gentleman informed me that he only dealt in selling new trucks but had an apprentice mechanic who had done a bit of work on Pajero Cars so he would send him out to see us!
I was a bit bored with waiting so I told Nick I would go and have a look at the shops.
Within about 5 minutes of me going I got a phone call from his to say the car had started with no problems. I made my way back to the car immediately.
We finished our jobs and headed back to camp and began to get ready and organised for our early pack up and departure in the morning. We also booked the car into a local mechanic to have the ignition problem checked out as it appeared to have been fixed we weren't keen to drive too long a distance on these remote roads if we were to encounter problems.
TUESDAY 26TH MAY 2009 – CARNARVON TO CORAL BAY W.A. - DAY 78
We pack up and are organised to leave early. This is the 'best' pack up we have had. However, our gloating doesn't last for long. I get into the car and turn on the ignition and nothing happens. It seems the same problem we were experiencing yesterday is still with us. Our elation turns to disappointment and we start to ask ourselves many questions. What could be happening!!! After several attempts still nothing happened and as we were to be taking the car to the mechanic by 8:00am (it was 7:30am) we phoned them to let them know what the delay was.
The mechanic said he would send a roadside service man to come to us. Within about 10 minutes what resembled the WA version of the NRMA arrived and proceeded to look for the problem.
3 hours later and after all possible problem were considered, scratching his head, he asked if by chance, would there be any more keys anywhere!!! The penny dropped........
A few weeks ago while we were in Perth I had misplaced my full set of keys. As I still hadn't found them a week later, while we were in Geraldton, and while having our car serviced we ordered and paid for another key (approx. $250-00). In the meantime the people who looked after Lucy when we went to Rottnest Island had found my set of keys in their front yard (I must have dropped them in the dark when picking her up). Kathy said she would send them to Carnarvon Post Office for us to pick up when we arrived there.
After all the van problems of the last few weeks we finally arrived into Carnarvon and went to the Post Office to pick up our mail. There was a lovely letter and my keys in a packet sent from Kathy.
Once I had my original set of keys back I began to use them (instead of the new cut one). Unbeknown to us we didn't realise that my original key would be 'de-coded', consequently every time I used that key the car would not start.
Not realising, every time Nick started the car with his keys it turned over first time!!!! Consequently, he kept saying that I was not starting the car properly each time (using my key) but when he started the car (with his key) the car started first go. We were baffled!!!!
However, now with the problem solved we discarded the original key and before long we were on the road having to visit another mechanic to remove the bolts from the new axle.
This took about an hour but we then realised we had a problem with the caravan electricals. The brakes and indicators wouldn't work. So, we then drove to a recommended auto electrician about 1km away.
After explaining the problem the young Apprentice began to try to diagnose the problem with the lights. After about 2 hours he was baffled! We then explained to him that we had a problem with the keys and the immobiliser. Well, apparently using the old de-coded key drained the car battery which affected the electricals. $150-00 later we have a new battery and we finally set off for our next destination of Coral Bay about 240kms. away
I decide that as its late I should phone through ahead to book a site at a caravan park in Coral Bay. Thankfully, we did this as we got the last site (have no idea what we would have done as there are 2 caravan parks in Coral Bay (only one takes dogs)!!!! I also mention that we want to swim with the Whale Sharks while we are there so the very kind receptionist books this for us and we are to be ready the next morning for an 8:20am departure. It all seems to be happening!
We arrive into Coral Bay at sunset, checking in finding a fairly cramped spot. The campers next to us and behind us kindly help us manouvre into our spot and as they both have dogs we find we have something in common.
After settling in we have a blissful night, looking forward to our big day tomorrow.
WEDNESDAY 27TH MAY 2009 – CORAL BAY W.A. - DAY 79
We are up early and get organised as we are to be out all day today. I feed Lucy and Nick takes her for a walk as I speak to our 'dog loving' neighbours. We mention to them that we will be out all day and that we are going to leave Lucy, tied up on her leash, attached to the van.
I have already mentioned this to the delightful receptionst here at the caravan park and she said whilst it is not a practice they entertain in our case they would check on Lucy to make sure she is ok. We have also been reassured by our neighbours they will do the same, the lady next door even offering to take her for a walk if she gets bored.
We leave plenty of water and some food plus her toys, bid her goodbye and make a quick getaway up the road and to where we have to meet the guides for our whale shark trip.
There are 10 other passengers of differing ages so we introduce ourselves and make small talk until we leave on our mini bus to make our way to the boat ramp. We board the small 9 metre cruiser which appears comfortable but lacks adequate seating but feel we will be so busy overboard we won't need seating.
Our guides are Maia and Michael and skipper Pedro. We are in their trusty hands for the day. The first couple of hours is spent inside the reef where we are shown the emergency procedures before donning our snorkelling gear for a 'test' snorkel. We all, except one man, dive into the water with no problems, although I must admit I am a little apprehensive of what lies ahead.
All back on the boat we then make our way to the other side of the reef (in dark dark blue water) I am even more apprehensive as we are given instructions as to how our dive will take place and what we might expect. Also a few rules and regulations (as outlined by the Department of Environment and Conservation.)
Not much information is known on Whale Sharks and their habits so at the moment these dives are in initial stages. With the help of very experienced Marine Biologists and different techniques the authorities are trying to learn as much about these 'fish' as they can.
There are 3 boats out here at the moment and we all share a 'spotter plane'. This plane will comb the skies searching for these creatures – also for other predators that we are not keen to encounter.
We just have to wait!!!!!
While we are waiting a pod of huge sperm whales approach us and put on a fantastic display for us, coming extremely close to our boat giving us a birds eye view.
As the time passes, there is still no word from the spotter plane but all our eyes are glued to the ocean.
After 5 hours still nothing so we are told the spotter planes have to return to their base and we will head back to shore but on the way will stop at a reef where we can snorkel with some harmless reef sharks among other marine life. Although slightly disappointed, we understand when dealing with nature it won't always go the way we'd like. We have had a fabulous day nevertheless, met some great people and learned a lot about The Ningaloo Reef.
We arrive back at camp and to Lucy who is so excited to see us. We are met by our neighbours who have kept an eye on her all day and have reported she was very well behaved.
We are so tired we order a Pizza for tea and have an early night.