16th June to 25th June

TUESDAY 16TH JUNE 2009 – WYNDHAM W.A. - DAY 99

Today we decided we would spend the morning finishing our 'housekeeping' before spending the afternoon driving to the Port and having a closer look around this area.

Wyndham is predominantly Aboriginal and despite the local Mayor trying to 'clean up' the town he is having some difficulty as a lot of the houses are in need of repair. It is such a shame to see so many of these people loitering in the parks during the afternoon with not much purpose.



WEDNESDAY 17TH JUNE 2009 – WYNDHAM TO KUNUNURRA W.A. DAY 100

Before we left the caravan park here we took some photos of “The Boab Tree”. This is supposed to be the 'oldest and largest Boab' tree in the Kimberleys around 2000 years old. We find it hard to fathom the last 50 to 80 years let alone 2000 years.

We drive the 100kms into Kununurra and we are in familiar territory as this is another place we stayed on our last trip 4 years ago. We found the Lakeside Resort Caravan Park and checked in to a lovely site right on the lake. Once we set up camp we drove into town to visit the Post Office. We were having mail sent here so after collecting it we headed to the Tourist Information Centre to gather as much information as we could.

We were told it would be impossible to take our caravan out to El Questro so we were advised the best way to stay there was to take a tent and camping gear or we could stay in the 'upmarket' tents there. Armed with all this information we headed back to camp to contemplate our options.

After a few phone calls we decided on the option of staying in the 'upmarket' tent so we booked for 3 nights. We also booked Lucy into the local Kennels, recommended to us by the receptionist at the caravan park and also paid for 3 days storage of the van. At the same time we phoned our friends Ron and Bev Tait who told us they had just booked 5 nights holiday to Dunk Island. We were going to be so close so we thought it might be nice to stay there on the island at the same time.

We were able to take advantage of the 'special' 5 nights with all meals. We just had to get there.

We thought it would be easier for us to make our way there from Mission Beach rather than Cairns so I booked the return boat trip. Kennels were also in the area so I booked that for Lucy as well. Done!!!

Satisfied with our plans we had an early night (as usual) and we would have to spend tomorrow getting organised for our 'break away'!!!



THURSDAY 18TH JUNE 2009 – KUNUNURRA W.A. DAY 101

We spent the day around camp catching up with chores. Lucy must sense something as she is not letting either of us out of her sight. We are sure she is part human!!!!! We give her extra cuddles and hope she will forgive us for leaving her. 3 days is really not that long is it!!!



FRIDAY 19TH JUNE 2009 – KUNUNURRA TO EL QUESTRO (EMMA GORGE) W.A. DAY 102

Today we had to pack up early ready to put the van in storage and take Lucy to the Kennels. When we got there a lady by the name of Rebecca greeted us. Although looking a little 'rough and ready' we felt confident that she would look after our little baby. It was made quite clear though that while she was being boarded she would have to sleep outside in a pen close to all the other dogs being boarded.

These kennels were situated on a property about 6kms from Kununurra. As we put Lucy into her 'cage' we noticed there were many other animals ie ducks with little ducklings, geese, chooks and horses. We were a little apprehensive about the chooks though as Lucy's favourite treat is fresh chicken wings, chicken necks and chicken drumsticks. We decided to distract her attention from these wandering free birds by showing her the horses which she was fascinated by. We just hoped that she didn't think she would have to catch her own dinner!!

After leaving her bedding, food, bowls and toys and hoping that she would not be cold during the night I was a little uneasy at leaving her. She has never slept outside in her short life, preferring to sleep in her warm cosy bed, inside with her own blanket and soft cuddly toy and when she gets cold at about 5am always retreats to the end of our bed to snuggle between our warm bodies.

As we gave her our goodbye cuddles and reasurred her we would return, before long we were on our way along the highway and then onto the dusty and corrugated dirt Gibb River Road. It took about an hour before we came to the turn off to the upmarket Emma Gorge Resort where we would be spending the next 3 nights.

After checking in and finding out all the local information from a very informative check-in Receptionist we booked a boat trip for tomorrow to Chamberlain Gorge. We also booked for dinner this evening in the lovely fine dining restaurant but in the meantime made our way to our 'luxury tent' which would be our home.

During the afternoon we thought we would drive to El Questro Station about 25kms further along the Gibb River Road. This is a million acre working cattle station which they have decided to cash in on a use some of the land for camping. After an ice-cream and booking dinner for the following night at the BBQ we headed back to the car. As we were doing so a familiar sight came into view. It was Jan and Alan! They also had noticed us so it was fantastic to catch up with them once again, exchange stories of each of our travels. They had also checked into the camp that day and proceeded to take us to where their camper was.

It was in the most delightful spot, right on the river amongst the trees. We had a glass of wine with them as we sat on the riverbank watching the local wallaby family across the river as intrigued by us as we were of them.

We had dinner booked back at the Resort for 7pm so after a lovely cocktail in the bar we were shown to our table. The food was delicious but as the temperature began to drop we started to freeze. We had very limited clothing with us as we had no idea it would be so cold during the nights so we made the decision to head back to Kununurra tomorrow to gather our warmer clothes and some decent walking shoes.


SATURDAY 20TH JUNE 2009 – EMMA GORGE RESORT (EL QUESTRO) W.A. - DAY 103

After our night where we were both felt the cooler temperature we decided to drive back to Kununurra and to the van to pick some extra clothing. I was very very tempted to call in to see our little girl but thought better of it as it would only disrupt her routine.

We picked up the few things we needed and drove back to Zebbedee Springs at El Questro and were in time for a lovely soak in the warm water. This area is idyllic but very popular so you have to 'pick your times' as to when to come. The Springs close each day at 12 midday to allow the high paying guests from the station to enjoy this area without all the many tourists.

After we had spent about an hour here we headed back to our car. We were shocked to find the left hand back tyre was dead flat. We didn't panic as we had encountered a couple of flat tyres on this trip and were confident we would have it changed within no time.

Not to be!!!! Despite our new jack working perfectly we couldn't undo the nuts. Apparently at our last tyre change the machines they use put the nuts back on so tight it is near impossible to get them off. We were lucky to meet a young man, Daniel who was on his day off from working in Maintenance at the station. He was fantastic and was able to contact the station to get us help.

As we were waiting (for about an hour) for this to happen Nick offered Daniel an icy cold beer which just happened to be in our esky in the boot. 3 beers each later the mechanic arrived and had our tyre fixed in no time.

We learned from Daniel though that if you want to enjoy the thermal springs without anyone else there the best time to come was after 1:30pm in the afternoon. We thought we would put this information away for later.

By the time we got back to El Questro and arranged for 2 new tyres to be fitted it was time to embark on our Chamberlain Gorge Cruise. An astounding $910-00 later and a reasurrance that we had 'the best' all terraine tyres money could buy. We told him we only wanted to buy the tyres not the whole resort!!!

We got to the jetty in time to board the boat and the trip through the gorge was spectacular. Our guides were very informative and new the area very well. We finished off the afternoon with a lovely cold glass of champagne just the thing to put the problems of the last few hours behind us.

Back on land we were to meet Jan and Alan at their camp for 5:00 drinks which we did and had lots to tell them about our day. They told us they had been to Zebbedee Springs at 6am that morning and it was like Pitt Street at Peak Hour. Too many people and dreadfully uncomforable. We told them of the information we had received earlier which gave them a newfound enthusiasm.

After a quick change in the back of the car we were ready to drive the short distance to the Station as we had booked to have the Saturday night BBQ.

It was delicious and plenty and as we were tired and not really keen to drive the 25kms back to our accommodation we weren't keen to leave it too late. I was a little apprehensive to say the least in comtemplating the rough drive home.

On our way we came across some flashing lights, a lady and 2 men and a little girl standing on the side of the road. Unfortunately they had shattered their tyre so we stopped to offer help which they said they had under control. We told them of our problems during the day, knew how they felt, but we were keen to continue our drive back to Emma Gorge.

Not problems and we were ready to have a blissful night sleep in this absolutely gorgeous place with the sounds of the night humming us to sleep.



SUNDAY 21ST JUNE 2009 – EMMA GORGE RESORT (EL QUESTRO) W.A. - DAY 104

We wake very early at the sound of the birds. It is so peaceful here with the faint sound of the waterfall in the background. I decided not to get up early as I want to enjoy the moment. By 8am we are up showered and dressed ready for breakfast. The restaurant is deserted and we are told 1 hour before it was packed. Here many of the guests rise early to venture to the various gorges and organised tours. We are going to walk to Emma Gorge about 1.6kms up a rocky trail to a turquoise pool and then to the waterfall.

We are packed with our comfortable walking shoes, plenty of water, sunscreen, swimmers and towel. The walk was graded as medium difficulty with many uneven and unsteady rocks in our path. It took us about an hour and 15 minutes to reach the turquoise pool and it was refreshing to say the least as we dived into the crystal clear water. Perfectly refreshing after our walk.

The view to the waterfall was beautiful with rainforest trees and vegetation in the foreground. It was getting warmer so we decided to head back and I think it was harder going down but we made it before it got too hot. A well earned drink was in order as we sat outside 'our tent' and enjoyed waving to the many visitors in all shapes and sizes heading up the gorge. We were glad we had been early in the cool of the day as the temperature was rising it would be terribly uncomfortable walking in the heat.

Dinner was booked in the lovely restaurant again underneath the stars and again we were not disappointed. The food was delicious and surprisingly very reasonable.

Another night spent in this beautiful destination.



MONDAY 22ND JUNE 2009 – EMMA GORGE RESORT (EL QUESTRO) TO KUNUNURRA W.A. - DAY 105

We get up early and took many photos of our 'luxury tent' and the sun coming up over the mountain before packing up the car and heading down to the restaurant for breakfast. As we were doing this we were met by Jan and Alan who wanted to have a coffee with us before they walked up to Emma Gorge and the Turquoise pool, exactly what we had done yesterday.

They were not sure then if they would stay in Wyndham so we arranged to meet them in Kununurra in a couple of days.

It took about an hour for us to get back to town and of course our first stop was to pick up Lucy. She was so excited to see us but looked well and happy and by all accounts Rebecca had looked after her perfectly.

We arrived back at the Lakeside Tourist Park, hooked up the van and were given a site next door to where we were before we went to Emma Gorge. We were greeted by Moira, Joe and their little dog Missy and told them of our mishaps tyre wise and our experience at El Questro. They are lovely people and decided we would get together for 5 O'clock drinks thisevening at our camp.



TUESDAY 23RD JUNE 2009 – KUNUNURRA W.A. - DAY 106

We had a phone call from Jan and Alan during the morning asking us to meet them at the Tourist Information Centre in town. They had come up with a plan and some suggestions which they were keen for us to hear.

Firstly, they mentioned we should do a boat trip on the Ord River with them tomorrow in a self drive – BBQ boat. This sounded fun so we agreed

Then secondly, they felt we were so close to the Bungle Bungles it would be a shame for us to miss this so they suggested we first of all have Lucy boarded at the Kennels again, buy a tent and air beds and join them for 4 days driving and staying in the National Park, doing a couple of hikes with them and then perhaps taking a helicopter flight. There was much to take in!!! Firstly, Nick was not keen to take our car over more corrugated roads and was not that keen to leave little Lucy again.

We decided to head to the Pump House Restaurant to take in and discuss what we might do.

Over fresh barramundi and a glass of wine we discussed the fors and againsts while doing this there were three delightful young girls at the next table who were obviously overhearing our conversation.

One piped up and said, if you don't do it you will be sorry!!!! They had just spent 4 days camping in this very same area and said it was spectacular and something not to be missed. Nick was convinced.

After lunch we headed back to Jan and Alan's camp to tell them we would go and would they help us choose the right camping gear!!! I can't believe we are doing this.

An hour later armed with an easily erected 4 man tent (despite for only 2 of us) and 2 self inflatable air beds plus some hiking boots, and a couple of torches we were set.

I phoned Rebecca the “Kennel Lady” and she was happy to take Lucy for 4 days – we hope Lucy will forgive us!!!



WEDNESDAY 24TH JUNE 2009 – KUNUNURRA W.A. - DAY 107

We have to have our car in town by 9:30am ready for a service and check before our rough road trip to the Bungle Bungles. But before we do this we need to stock up on supplies for the next 5 days. We head into town and do as we had planned and are driven back to camp by our mechanic Dave.

Our BBQ lunch organised we wait for Jan and Alan to turn up ready to leave to spend the day on the lake in our tin boat. The weather is perfect so armed with food, drink, and swimmers we leave shore.

Our first stop is at Jan and Alans camp where we moor and pick up some bait. Barra fishing here is very popular so we are keen to try our hand. Jan arrives back with a tiny bag of bait not sure what this will entice.

The journey up the river is slow but relaxing and we motor past the Pump House Restaurant which has become a favourite haunt with lovely coffee and delicious food. It is interesting to view it from 'the other side'.

We find a nice quiet spot and Alan pitches the line – before long it is tugging profusely. He pulls in a 'cat fish' a little on the small side but a thrill to catch nevertheless. Photos and unhook and it is thrown back. Before long there is another tug on the line. This time it is Jan who has brought in another catfish. Photos and unhook and again, it is thrown back in. Hence, the next one is quite large caught by Nick, photos and unhook and thrown back in. This is beginning to become a little repetitive but we continue on and yes you guessed it, this time it was me who hooked a small one – photo and unhook and back in it went.

After doing this for a couple of hours we decided to put away the fishing line and just enjoy our BBQ lunch washed down with icy cold beer. The lake was so calm and it was so pleasant just enjoying the peace, quiet and surrounds.

Before long it was 2:30pm and almost time to have the boat back in. We enjoyed a pleasant half hour motoring up the waterway as Jan steered our vessel into moorings with the precision of a superliner. All that boating that dad taught us when we were kids has really paid off.

Once back at camp we started to pack up ready for our departure tomorrow and get the van ready for storage once again.

Nick had to drop the mechanic back at his workshop so he took off to do that while I got packing and phoned my son Mitchell to wish him a happy 26th birthday. He was celebrating with his sister Chelsea and friends as they watched the state of origin.

Almost 2 hours had gone by and no sign of Nick. I was beginning to become very concerned especially as it was only a 5 minute drive into town. Jan and Alan were meeting us for dinner and to watch the state of origin at the local tavern so once they arrived our real worry began to set in. They drove into town to comb the streets as we thought he may have lost his way. This proved fuitless!!!!

We were all really getting extremely worried and just as I was about to phone the Police I received a phone call from Nick to say he was lost and confused and at the airport just out of town!!!! I immediately phoned Jan and Alan who went there and picked him up. Unfortunately, he had become disoriented and took the wrong turn ending up out of town at the airport.

He was terribly embarrassed and sorry he had put us through this but as we were all concerned for his safety we were pleased to see he had come to no harm and all was forgotten (for the time being anyway)!!!

As it was now getting late, and we were told it would be a 2 hour wait for dinner, our plans for dinner were abandoned and we decided as we had a big day planned for tomorrow we would head to our respective camps and have an early night. Queensland won by the way which now leaves Nick owing Alan 2 cases of beer!!!



THURSDAY 25TH JUNE 2009 – KUNUNURRA WA - DAY 108

After a fairly unsettled night we made the decision not to travel to the Bungle Bungles with Jan and Alan. We thought it best to continue our journey East so we phoned them early to break the news and decided to stay here in Kununurra an extra night. This will give us an opportunity to clean the van as the cupboards and pantry drawers need some attention. Nick washes the car and cleans it out ready to repack.

Jan and Alan phone us at around 11am to say they are heading south towards Timber Creek and then into the National Park. We are very envious as this was to be a 'real adventure' for us but obviously not meant to be. We wished them well and a safe trip and arranged to keep in touch and catch up perhaps when they get home to Cudgen in mid August. We bid them a sad farewell as they have been a huge help, with Alans knowledge and Jans efficiency they have made our problems that much easier to deal with. We will miss them terribly I am sure.

I decide to cook a roast pork dinner (mainly to use up our vegetables as we will be crossing the border tomorrow from Western Australia into Northern Territory) we are not sure of what the regulations are as far as bringing fruit across. Mind you it seems everyone we speak to are unsure as well. Despite this we will use up what we have and buy fresh across the border.

Nick takes Lucy for her usual long walk along the lake – this is the lake that, at night if you go near it and take your torch you can see 'beady eyes' just watching you. Little dogs are high on a freshwater crocs diet and they can smell them for miles so we are vigilent to keep her protected despite her having not a care in the world.

During the afternoon we head into town to fill up with petrol and buy a few things we need for the next part of our trip.

6th June 2009 to 15th June 2009

SATURDAY 6TH JUNE 2009 – BARN HILL STATION W.A. DAY 89

The wind came up in the night but as we are in amongst the trees our awning was protected. We take Lucy for her early morning walk and hope she doesn't get used to this life so much as all the beaches here at the station are 'dog friendly' and no need for a leash. She runs so freely and enjoys chasing the seagulls.

I decide to do some baking this morning and make fresh scones for morning tea. We join Fay and Jeff, Barry and Lorraine and enjoy morning tea together and listen to the many stories of their travels.


Nick spends the rest of the afternoon sunning himself and swimming at the beach while I read my book. This really is a lovely relaxing life.

SUNDAY 7TH JUNE 2009 – BARN HILL STATION W.A. DAY 90

We slide into a very easy and relaxing routine. Walking and swimming at the beautiful beach nearby. Reading our books and socialising with the many people who are staying here at the station. This is a very popular place and many people here come to stay for months at a time.



Dinner tonight is a Sunday Night Roast put on by the Station. They charge $15-00 each and all we have to do is BYO everything and they will supply the soup, roast dinner and dessert, plus entertainment.

At 5pm we head to the main area a short distance from our van.


MONDAY 8TH JUNE 2009 – BARN HILL STATION TO BROOME W.A. DAY 91

We bid farewell early to Fay and Jeff, Barry and Lorraine and head out along the corrugated 13kms to the highway, shutting making sure to shut the 2 gates to the station as we go.

It is 135kms to Broome from here so once on the bitumen road is a comfortable drive.

As we arrive into Broome we are a bit confused as there are some new roads since we were here last time. Luckily everything is well signposted so it doesn't take long to get to Cable Beach and Tarangau Caravan Park where we are booked for 5 nights.



We pay our $180-00 for the 5 nights (the most expensive caravan park so far) and are shown to a lovely shady spot on the outskirts by the fence (the allocated area for people with dogs). We manouvre the Princess into a very long narrow spot and we meet our neighbours, Clive and Sheila and their greyhound Sandy.

They brought Sandy from the pound where they told us greyhounds who have finished racing have their ears cut of (because of their racing number tatooed on them) then they are killed for dog meat. I was astounded that this was the fate of so many of these (not so pretty) but lovely loyal animals. Sheila and Clive told us that many people now are wanting older, placid dogs and are adopting them from the RSPCA and various animal shelters around the country. Despite his size, Sandy becomes a lovely mate to little Lucy.



As Clive and Sheila have arranged to have dinner out tonight we offer to petsit for them while they are out. They are happy they won't have to take Sandy with them and leave him in their big car and as they leave his dog bed and coat they head out.

It is my brother David, in Sydney, birthday today so I phone him but he must be out on the town enjoying himself as there is no answer. I leave a text message and hope that he will get it tonight before midnight.

We enjoy a night in as the dogs play outside together before tiring themselves out. Clive and Sheila arrive home about 10pm and they offer to look after Lucy if we want to go out for dinner one night. My eyes light up as I would love to go to The Cable Beach Resort for dinner so we will see.

TUESDAY 9TH JUNE 2009 – BROOME W.A. DAY 92

After a cooler and comfortable night we woke up to brilliant clear sky. I have received a message of thanks from David so we are glad he got our message.

I phoned Jan and Alan and arranged to meet them tonight at Roebuck Bay where we would see 'Stairway to the Moon'. I was desperate for some much needed 'maintenance' so I headed into the local shopping centre to find somewhere to have my nails done. I found somewhere and they were able to fit me in in 10 minutes so after a quick coffee and scout around the shops I made my way back to the salon.

A delightful young British girl, Sabrina, was appointed to me and it was interestng to listen to her story of travelling and working around the world. She will leave here in November before heading back to Sydney then home.

I returned back to camp feeling like a new woman before getting a call from Jan and Alan.

Alan's sisters husband's brother Murray and his wife Marie from The Gold Coast were here in Broome as part of their round Australia oddyssey. They were keen for us to meet up so we arranged to change plans from 'Stairway to the Moon' and have sunset drinks on Cable Beach. We had done this on our last trip with Jane and Peter so would be a little bitter sweet. We agreed to meet and drive on the beach to a perfect spot where we would watch the sunset.



It, as usual, was spectacular and joining many others with the same idea it gets quite busy with 4 x 4 wheel drive vehicles everywhere. The relatively inconspicuous presence of police vehicles keeps everyone under control which makes it a most pleasant activity to do while here. As Stairway to the Moon is on for three nights we will head to town beach tomorrow night to see that.

The sun sets very quickly in the west so by 7pm we were packing up and heading back to camp.

WEDNESDAY 10TH JUNE 2009 – BROOME W.A. DAY 93

I am booked to have a little more 'maintenance' done on my hair thismorning early so once that is done I go back to camp and pick up Nick to take the car to have a new windscreen fitted. We had a tiny little chip which is resulting in further cracks so will need to have it replaced before it gets too bad or rather before the police notice it. There are heavy fines here in the West for driving with damaged windscreens so we think its safer to get this job done.

We drop the car off and the young man drives us back to camp where we wait for it to be completed.

Nick notices we are still having trouble with our gas and this could be one of the reasons the fridge is not working to its full potential. We get the number of a refrigeration man here in Broome and phone him to tell him our problem. He has another job to see to here at the caravan park so will book us in to be seen tomorrow. It is highly likely we will need a new fridge but we are not jumping to conclusions just yet. We feel we have helped the Western Australian economy enough already.

2 hours later our car is finished and the young man brings it back to us. $390-00 later our windscreen is brand new and lovely and clear. We drive him back to his factory and we decide to check out the local golf club on the way home.

We remember we came here on our last trip as it has the most magnificent views over 'town beach' where it is the best vantage point to witness 'staircase to the stars'. The only problem is they won't be open tonight. We are astounded as the third night of the full moon is the most spectacular.

I decide to cook a roast lamb for dinner and we will just have to picture our lovely memories from last time when we were with Jane and Peter.

THURSDAY 11TH JUNE 2009 BROOME W.A. DAY 94

The mornings here are a little fresh but the days are warm with a temperature of around 27 degrees. I am taking Lucy to be shampooed and clipped today, try to get rid of some of the red dirt in her fir. Her appointment is 10am so I set the GPS (don't know what we would do without it sometimes) and it takes about 8 minutes to get to 'Groom in Broome'. Julie is the groomers name so after handing over Lucy, I go back to camp.

This is a good opportunity for me to clean out our fridge, wash the walls down and deodorize it before the refrigeration man comes to look at it this afternoon.

I pick Lucy up 2 hours later and she looks spic an span – not a sign of red dirt anywhere (I wonder how long that will last). We are sure she feels better for it.

By 4:30pm we have not had any sign of the refrigeration man so I phone him to be told 'a fridge of that description only lasts 8 – 9 years' – our fridge would be 10 to 12 years old so think we will have to buy a new one.

It will take weeks to get one up from Perth so we decide to buy a portable one for the time being.

FRIDAY 12TH JUNE 2009 – BROOME W.A. DAY 95

We do some housekeeping before heading into town to the camping shop. There are many different portable fridges at differing prices so we settle on one “a Waeco” the same one Alan and Jan brought a few weeks ago, (and here in Broome we paid much more than they did) but as I've had to throw out hundreds of dollars worth of food over the last few weeks we think it will be worth it.

After stocking up on some supplies we head back to camp to decide on where we will head next.

SATURDAY 13TH JUNE 2009 – BROOME W.A. TO FITZROY CROSSING – DAY 96

Before we hook up we decide we will have to drive into town to the Windscreen shop as we find a 4 inch crack across our windscreen. We are astounded as we haven't driven anywhere to do any damage. I am quite concerned as being Saturday morning and needing to check out of this park (as it is full) we need to organise this as soon as possible.

Our new fridge doesn't seem to be working properly also so frustrated as we are we need to get these two things looked at early as our next major stop is Kununurra over 600kms away.

We speak to the caravan park Manager, who is sympathetic to our problems and tells us 'if we need to stay overnight, despite them being full, he will find “somewhere” for us'!

The Industrial Area seems to all be closed on Saturday mornings so I find the Windscreen Shop Owners card and decide to phone him on his mobile. “Leave a Message”!!! I am not happy as we are really needing to move on. We then go back to the camping shop to ask them to look at our fridge. There is a problem with the lid so after some manipulation (the owner tells us it is a common fault of Waeco fridges) the fridge is working perfectly.

I get a phone call from Mick (the windescreen man). It is his day off and he is out fishing. I almost scream down the phone at him to ask him 'what do we do about the faulty windscreen'! He calms me down and assures me we can drive to Kununurra and he will arrange for a new one to be ordered and installed as soon as we arrive there in a few days time. They will bill him for the cost.

Satisfied, we head back to camp, hook up and are on our way.

It is such a long day of driving with ever changing scenery.

We arrive into Fitzroy Crossing and check into the Fitzroy Lodge Caravan Park. We stayed here on our last trip with our friends Arthur and Trish and their family and have some very happy memories of that time.

Our site is on the outskirts of the park and we are put next to the biggest rig we have ever seen. It is a triple decker motorhome with a triple decker 'mobile garage' attached.. We meet the couple who own it and they tell us that they work around this area, contracted to the government to work within the Aboriginal communities to do whatever is needed. Mostly, they say troubleshooting (which could mean anything)!!!!

I get organised inside while Nick chats to the man outside. After a while Nick comes in to tell me that the triple decker 'mobile garage' houses the man's light plane. Well, we have seen everything now. It is normal to see various sized trailers behind motorhomes but this really takes the cake as the biggest we have ever seen.

It is amazing what people won't leave home without!!!!!

SUNDAY 14TH JUNE 2009 – FITZROY CROSSING TO DOON DOON W.A. - DAY 97

As we have stayed attached for a 'quick getaway' it is easy to move this morning. We are away early as we have a very long day ahead of us. We plan to get to Kununurra some 600kms away.

After a very tiring day at around 4pm we come across a lovely caravan park attached to the Doon Doon Roadhouse. This looks rather new as there is new turf laid, lovely gardens and very very clean. We make a quick unanimous decision to stay here for the night and are lucky that we get the last site. It is easy again, as we decided not to unhook so its not long before we are enjoying the cold taste of a lovely beer and gin and tonic as we enjoy the view of the mountains in the background. This is on the outskirts of the Bungle Bungles so it was lovely to have a candlit BBQ underneath millions of stars on the clearest of nights.

MONDAY 15TH JUNE 2009 – DOON DOON TO WYNDHAM W.A. - DAY 98

We rise to a beautiful crisp winter morning here in the Kimberley's. The temperature is forecast to be in the high 20's but with no humidity it is very pleasant. As we stayed hooked up overnight it is easy to pack up and we are away, heading further east by 7:30am.

As we drive through the magnificent Cockburn Ranges it is evident why Baz Luhrman chose this location for his movie 'Australia'. The scenery is stunning and the ever changing colours of the mountains are breathtaking. With the rugged profile viewed from across the salt marsh it will be a memory etched in our minds for decades.

We find an old Boab tree where we stop to have a photo.

This is an area I have been looking forward to seeing immensely as we only stayed in Kununurra for a couple of days in 2005 on our way to Broome. There is so much to see here. We are not sure if we will go into the Bungle Bungles though as it is in a National Park and from what we can see from our journey so far we think it will be much the same.

Our mail has been sent to Kununurra and we will get our new windscreen sorted out there so we think we will head to Wyndham, about 100kms north east of Kununurra and spend a couple of nights there, mainly to stock up on supplies and do some washing.

Wyndham is Western Australia's most northerly town 3216kms north east of Perth. In 1885 Gold was discovered in Halls Creek and in March 1886 Wyndham was selected to service the goldfields.

With many cattle stations in this area it is also a busy port for the live export industry transporting stock to Asia and Europe.

We find a shady caravan park and set up camp. It is only 10:30am so it is a nice feeling being able to pick from an array of campsites and we pick a lovely grassed shady spot.

The local information Centre is a valuable source so we pay them a visit and emerge armed with many brochures.

I have been wanting to visit El Questro Station (where many of the scenes for the Australia movie were shot) but my enthusiasm is quickly let down when we are told that the road getting there is not favourable to caravans. I have heard so many conflicting opinions and are a bit confused. We will have to think carefully of how we will tackle this.

In the meantime I buy some lovely fresh salad rolls and we head up to the lookout for a picnic lunch.

Our first stop is Warriu Park Dreamtime Statues. These statues are a proud monument to the indigenous heritage of the region.

From here we drive to the Lookout. 350m above sea level, you get a fabulous view of where the 5 rivers meet (Forrest, Pentecost, Durack, King and Ord Rivers enter the Cambridge Gulf. We decide to come back here at sunset.

28th May to 5th June

THURSDAY 28TH MAY 2009 – CORAL BAY TO MIAREE POOL (FREE CAMP) - DAY 80

We pack up and leave Coral Bay early as we have to drive just on 500kms to get to our next stop of Karratha where we will stop for a night before heading north towards Broome.

On our way we need to stop for petrol at Nanutarra Roadhouse. We remember stopping here for petrol on our last trip and I took a photo of the “Dog's Dunny' and the petrol pump at an astounding $1.60 per litre. It is now $1.80 per litre but as they have a 'captive audience' out here you have no alternative and just have to pay it.

Nick was also feeling a little hungry and was ready to order a hamburger with the lot when we noticed the price - $17-99!!!!!! All of a sudden he was not that hungry and was content for me to make him a couple of ham salad sandwiches (at less than a quarter the price).

The rest of our journey was uneventful although we noticed how prevalent the 'mine' cars and temporary communities with demountable accommodation were evident far more than when we were here back in 2005. Something else that was so prevalent then and we had forgotten about is the red red dirt here. It gets into everything. Last time we spent days getting it out of the car and the van so I think it will be the same this time. We washed the kitchen floor this morning and within 15 minutes there were red dirt marks again. It would be a nightmare for the people who live here.

By 5pm we were about 35kms from Karratha and we came across this lovely camp area by a freshwater pool – Miaree Pool. It was only 1km on a dirt road off the highway so we decided to stay overnight here. There were only 3 other caravanners and campers so we felt safe.

We found a lovely spot overlooking the pool and began to set up even though leaving the van hooked up. When we turned on the (battery) light it was very very faint. We couldn't believe it as we had only just put in a new battery – what could be the problem.

I cooked a Thai Red Chicken and rice dinner on our gas stove we ate outside by candlelight under the clearest of clear skies so all was not lost. We would have to get the battery looked at in Karratha!!!!

FRIDAY 29TH MAY 2009 – MI AREE POOL(KARRATHA) TO POINT SAMSON W.A. - DAY 81

After a very peaceful and restful night (were were in bed and asleep by 8:30pm) we woke very early to the sound of the 'morning bush birds' and a lovely sunrise over the red hills. With not much packing up to do we were on the road by 7am and as we were heading into town we decided to phone Jan and Alan to perhaps meet us for breakfast.

As we drove into Karratha it was such a familiar sight and the site of many landmarks came flooding back.

It is such a busy town with the main industry being the LNG Pipeline and Rio Tinto Mining Operations among other various mines and as this was to be a long weekend the town was buzzing.

We met Jan and Alan at the local shopping centre where we had coffee and they filled us in on what they had been up to and we did the same. They, like us had experienced some problems, ie broken windshield and faulty fridge which they were waiting to get 'the part' sent from Perth. They suggested to us that we should head out to Point Samson for the long weekend and that they would meet us there tomorrow. It sounded like a great idea but first we needed our battery checked before we could do anything.

Nick and Alan took off to do that while Jan and I did some much needed retail therapy. We both booked in to have our hair coloured and styled together and this also gave us an opportunity of doing some 'girl catch up' which is such a nice change!

The problem with our battery was sorted out – it wasn't the actual battery but the electrical connections some of which had snapped off. So the Auto Electrician took it all to pieces, cleaned it all and reattached new leads to each point – a job that took 2 hours and $160-00 later. It was the problem the whole time and not the battery!!!!!! Just have to put it down to another financial injection for the WA economy!!

After I had my hair done I brought some supplies, met Nick and headed the 50kms out to Point Samson.

There is a lovely new caravan park opened up there last year called “the Cove” so we checked in, found a lovely spot with a distant view of the ocean and hoped now that ALL our problems were behind us. We were happy to be staying at this lovely little seaside village for the next four nights.

SATURDAY 30TH MAY 2009 – POINT SAMSON W.A. - DAY 82

The wind has come up during the early hours of the morning so hopefully it won't cause too much havoc here. To be on the safe side Nick takes the awning down – we don't want to take any chances.

After a walk with Lucy to the beach nearby we have croissants and coffee for breakfast. With the wind as it is it is a great opportunity to do our washing (get some of this red dirt out) so I do it early. Nick finds there is a leak from our stored water container into the boot of the car so that is a great opportunity for him to clean the car. We are both busy but contented. The white fur on Lucy is beginning to turn red (her version of a fake tan I think) but we decide it is no use in bathing her as she will only get redder. She will have to wait until we leave this area which, as we know how much she hates being bathed, she won't be disappointed.

About midday Jan and Alan pull into the caravan park and set up camp. They tell us their fridge is still not fixed as 'the part' should arrive in Karratha on Tuesday. I will cook a roast lamb dinner tomorrow night for us all – but tonight we will mee t them for drinks at 5pm.

SUNDAY 31ST MAY 2009 – POINT SAMSON W.A. - DAY 83

We get a phone call from our son Stuart and he updates us on the progress of the kids which we love to hear. He and Anita, Otto and Milla are all well and happy and the kids are progressing well at school and pre-school. They may meet us in Port Douglas for a week or two in the July School Holidays which would be fantastic.

Alan and Nick decide to have a bike ride this morning and leave Jan and I to potter around our camps.

This afternoon, Jan, Alan and Nick decide to drive to Cossack. I remember going there back in 2005 so I felt I could catch up on a few things around camp while they are away. Cossack is a historical town built between 1870 and 1898 and is now a ghost town. It is interesting when we compare these dates with the date (1850) that our little cottage back in Randwick was built and in comparison these little town really are so young!

Many of the old buildings have been restored including the general store, post office and courthouse which now house galleries and museums. When they return we go down to Honeymoon Cove for a swim in the ocean. Not very clear but the water temperature warm and refreshing.

After sunset and our 5 o'clock drinks we enjoy our baked lamb dinner under the stars. The night sky is so clear.

MONDAY 1ST JUNE 2009 – POINT SAMSON W.A. DAY 84

The weather this morning is looking very suspect with rain clouds and rain forecast. It is our friend (in NZ) Jane's birthday so we make a phone call. She sounds, as usual, happy and cheerful and tells us she is having a lovely day despite her underlying problems. We will have a drink for her at our 5 o'clock get together tonight!

We spend the morning around camp before meeting Jan and Alan at 12 midday to take the short walk to the Tavern. It is a public holiday here and when we arrive the same idea is shared by many others out to enjoy a lazy Sunday of a long weekend.

We find a table on the balcony, overlooking the ocean where we enjoy a delicious lunch. The rain teams down and it is interesting to make conversation with some of the locals, mostly miners and their families, who have the same idea.

After lunch we make plans to pack up in readiness for our departure tomorrow. While doing this we discover our fridge is still not working efficiently. We turn the dial to 'gas' instead of electricity and hopefully this will keep our food cold. We will have to pay a visit to the refrigeration man in Karratha tomorrow after we leave here.

TUESDAY 2ND JUNE 2009 – POINT SAMSON TO POINT SAMSON W.A. - DAY 85

We are so organised our pack up and check out is uneventful except for a noise when putting on our brakes. There must be some dirt in them which is making them squeal – a dreadful noise that , we are sure, will fix itself as we drive on.

Karratha is about 50kms back so we plan to meet Jan and Alan at the refrigeration place, where they are hopefully, picking up their part for their portable fridge.

We speak to the girl in the office who advises us to unhook the van and leave it with them for the day, which we do. The coffee shop in town is familiar to us so we head to there and wait, and wait and wait.

By 11am we still have not had a phone call from Jason who is fixing our fridge so we phone him. He is still 'looking' at it and will call us as soon as the diagnosis is known. We wait!!!! and wait!!!! and wait!!!!

At 2pm we drive to the Industrial area, speak to Jason who says we have a problem with the fridge exhaust so he puts in a new one and tells us we need a new catch. He will try to phone around to find one and have it sent to Broome where we can have it put on. We are not keen to spend a night here and as Jan and Alan, who HAVE to stay until tomorrow (because their 'part' has not arrived) have checked out the caravan park here – said it was so disgusting they wouldn't let their dogs stay there – I decide to phone the Point Samson Caravan Park back and ask that they have a site ready for us – we will be there by 6pm.

Jason tells us there is nowhere in Australia that supplies the 'catch' for our fridge that we need and the best bet is to use an esky with ice and have a 'catch' made when we are in Broome. He charges us $50-00 which is a lot less than what we thought, so we hook up and drive back to Point Samson.

WEDNESDAY 3RD JUNE 2009 – POINT SAMSON TO PARDOO STATION W.A. DAY 86

We 'kick' our fridge closed which seems to work, don't need to hook up as we didn't unhook when we arrived and very early we get going on our way. There are no towns between here and Broome only roadhouses. I am not keen to stay at them and would prefer cattle stations so we choose Pardoo and drive the 300kms stopping at the roadhouses only to replenish our fuel.

Pardoo Station is a cattle station with campground attached. We pull in and stay hooked up ready for our departure in the morning.

About 5pm we look up to see Jan and Alan arriving. They eventually received their 'part' and decided to drive on and stay here. They set up camp next to us and it was fun to have 5 o'clock drinks with them and have a wager of a case of 'Pure Blonde' on the State of Origin this evening.

As the night progressed and results came in our case of Pure Blonde was not looking very healthy. (We drank a couple of 3 while listening to the game)!!!

NSW lost. We will have to buy a case for Alan and Jan and hopefully give to them in Broome next week.

The rain came down heavily during the night but it was nice to hear the sound on the roof and sleep in the cool.

THURSDAY 4TH JUNE 2009 – PARDOO STATION TO BARN HILL STATION W.A. DAY 87

During the night it had poured with rain and we are not looking forward to the prospect of driving the 13km dirt road back to the highway. I would not be surprised if Nick says we will wait to see what happens but as this gesture is not forthcoming we make plans to pack up. As we didn't unhitch it has made it much easier and as the rain pelts down our awning is the last thing to be put away.

With drought covering so much of this area and Australia in general it is almost a crime to think we don't want it to rain. The red dirt here is continuous, everywhere we look it is red. Our white car and caravan are now a paler shade of red. It is not worth cleaning anything until we get to Broome. “Red” is on everything!

The dirt road is not too bad despite the rain and as it is quite a popular camp spot the owners of the station maintain it so that it is not too hard on vehicles.

We drive for about 3 hours until we come to a sign that says “Barn Hill Station”. This is where we are booked to camp for the next 4 nights. During our travels in 2005 many people we spoke to asked if we had stayed here at Barn Hill and we somehow missed it. It has become a very popular spot and we were told not to miss it this time.

We arrive at the closed gate at the entrance to the station and 'another dirt road'! 9Kms off the highway we come to what seems like an 'oasis in the desert'. We check in and are shown a spot amongst the trees where we can hear the ocean. It is quite crowded but comfortable.

Shortly after arriving Jan and Alan turn up and by co-incidence their friends from Kingscliff, Fay and Jeff Lennon are camped right behind us together with their friends from Melbourne, Lorraine and Barry. They invite us over for 5 o'clock drinks but we want to go for a swim and walk on the beach first.

It is a very short distance we walk to the; beach. The view is amazing with the sun shining over the crystal clear ocean. We let Lucy off her lead and she is in heaven. Running and playing in the sand. She skims the rock pools and investigates the rocky caves and sand dunes. She is so happy and enjoys running and playing with us.

We venture into the water for a swim and we are surprised at how Lucy runs in and jumps over the waves with us. We always thought she didn't like the ocean but today it is different. After an hour and a half she is exhausted and reluctantly we make our way back to camp.

We join Jeff, Fay, Jan and Alan and Lorraine and Barry for 5 o'clock drinks and it is interesting to get information on other camping experiences from other travellers perspective. They have given us some good tips which we will note.

I cook a BBQ which we have outside under the stars in this very lovely quiet cattle station.


FRIDAY 5TH JUNE 2009 – BARN HILL STATION W.A. DAY 88

We wake up this morning to the sun streaming through our windows and the birds singing. It is a lovely fresh clear morning here on the station and I decide early to put a load of washing on. As many campers here stay for 2 – 3 months at a time they have a roster system for the 2 washing machines. I put my name down for 7:30am as we haven't washed for about a week and we are running out of clean clothes.
Jan and Alan turn up as they are now heading up north to Broome and onto Cape Leveque 200kms north up to the Bucaneer Archapelago. We went up into this area also in 2005. It was my favourite place in all of Australia, very rugged but very beautiful. Now, after seeing Esperance and Cape Le Grande National Park, south of Western Australia this area is definitely on par with that.

After a 'photo shoot' for the blog with Jeff and Fay they bid their farewells and not sure where we will meet them next they are off.

We have breakfast as we listen to the news and I am overcome with sadness as I listen to details of the passing of one of my favourite public identities, Professor Chris O'Brien. He finally succumbed to the disease that he treated so many patients with. It was only at Christmas time I read his very interesting book 'Never Say Die'. His passing will not only be a huge loss to the Medical Profession but also to the Nation, many who grew to love and respect him as a compassionate and giving human being. Kevin Rudd has just announced a State Funeral has been offered to the family to which they have accepted. A very fitting gesture to a very deserving Australian. I think his vision and inspiration will be a huge advantage to us all in years to come with the development and building of the new Cancer Facility at Royal Prince Alfred Hospital in Sydney. It is just a shame he won't be here to see its completion in 2012.

Nick decides he will spend the morning on the beach where he will take Lucy so that she can swim and run as she did yesterday and so enjoyed. I am keen to update this blog and read one of my many books or perhaps watch a movie in these idyllic surrounds.

We again join Jeff and Fay, Barry and Lorraine at 5pm for drinks. As clouds have set in sunset will not be very spectacular however, we will wait and see what tomorrow is like.

Friday 22nd May to Wednesday 27th May

FRIDAY 22ND MAY 2009 – DENHAM W.A. - DAY 74

With heavy hearts and uncertainty of what may lie ahead we pack up early to take the Princess out to the local Industrial Area to leave her with Lee, the Steel Fabricator who will fit the new axle . He says the job will take most or all day and he will phone us when it is ready. We unhook and leave her in his trusty hands.

Downtown, where we have become so used to we head to the local coffee shop. We begin to throw some ideas around as to what will be our next move. We are keen to go over to New Zealand to spend some time with our friends and if we were at home we would probably be on the next plane. However, as we are as far west on the Australian continent as one could be and flights from here are very rare or even non existent we are not quite sure what to do.

I phone Jan as I want to share with her the news of Jane (we all spent time together at Kingscliff at the end of our trip in 2005) and as we headed home Jane and Peter spent some extra days there and saw quite a bit of Jan and Alan. Jane always said Kingscliff was her favourite place and if things were different she they would buy a house and live there!!! Unfortunately, it was not to be.

Jan and I shed many tears together and she is no doubt feeling the pain of the thought of losing a lovely friend..

She suggests we drive straight up to Darwin and fly to Wellington from there!!!

After our coffee we decide to phone New Zealand and within moments the phone is answered, as usual by a cheery voice. It's Jane and I have to be strong to hold back tears and heavy emotions. I tell her how shocked we were to get her email and we thought we would like to abandon this part of our trip and head across to see her. In her usual cheerful but persuasive way she said quite definitely 'No'! It was too far and that at the moment she said she gets very tired and would rather we remember her the way we had last seen her. Cheerful, giggling, happy and not a care in the world. She would rather we be here for Peter when the time came. What could I say!!!

She wanted us to keep in touch frequently and that Peter would phone us and let us know as soon as 'it' happened. In her unselfish manner she was far more worried for Peter than herself. I hung up, feeling sad, trying to keep the sound of her voice etched in my memory.

Nick, Lucy and I spent the rest of the day taking long walks on the beach together, now and then feeling a sense of sadness interrupted by laughter and lovely reminders of when we were with Jane and Peter on our last trip. We are sure our little Lucy (Lucinda Jane) (named after our friend Jane) can feel our pain too!!!!

By 4pm we phone Lee (who is fixing our van) and he tells us we can pick her up at 5pm. We are elated and decide that we will drive north to Hamelin Pool to spend the night at the campground there before heading off next morning early for Carnarvon.

Luck is certainly not on our side and when we arrive Lee tells us he is not happy with the way the axle is and needs to do some more work on it. He suggests we can sleep in her for the night in his huge shed – it may be a bit noisy but its at least somewhere to stay, especially as it will be hard to find somewhere to leave Lucy.

I begin to make some frantic phone calls. It is 5 to 6 and I notice the Tourist Information Centre closes at 6pm so I make a phone call to them. A lovely lady by the name of Glenda answers the phone and as I tell her of our predicament and that we need to find accommodation she tells me 'nowhere here takes dogs'!!!! She gives me the name of 3 places who might have vacancies but I would need to assure them that Lucy WOULD sleep in the car!!

The first place I phone is the Caravan Park where we have spent the last 2 weeks. They have onsite cabins so I let them know we need one and I assure them that Lucy will stay in the car overnight. The lady tells me they have just let out their last one and they have nothing left!! The next place I phone is the Denham Oceanfront Cabins and speak to a man by the name of Paul. I tell him our plight and that we are desperate. He says he has 1 last cabin left, the dog is not a problem the only hiccup is that he is hosting a fishing BBQ that our cabin is right next to so might be a bit noisy! I tell him as we are desperate we will be happy with anything. We will see him in 15 minutes.

When we arrive there are many fishing boats outside each cabin and Nick pays the $90-00 (he gets a $10-00 note for change, or rather ½ a $10-00 note which, we are sure by accident, has been torn in half. We decide not to say anything as we think $100-00 a night for the accommodation is worth it.

The rain is setting in so we move into our cosy cabin (Lucy discreetly under our arm) and make ourselves comfortable for the night ahead.

There is no way Lucy is going to be content sleeping in the car. She begins to whimper!!! Nick goes to get her and it is not long before she is snuggled up in her bed with her blanket in front of the warm cosy heater.

I make yummy pumpkin soup which we have with warm crusty bread, perfect for this type of weather and despite the noise from the people at the BBQ next door and the wind and the rain outside it is quite comforting to know we will spend the night in this warm cosy environment.

SATURDAY 23RD MAY 2009 – DENHAM TO CARNARVON W.A. - DAY - 75

After a blissful and very comfortable night we pack up and drive to our favourite cafe, Azure, for breakfast. It is still raining and cold so we enjoy a hot cooked breakfast and coffee and make our way to see our friend Lee and hopefully pick up the van.

She is ready!!!! We take the van for a quick drive around the block and all seems in order so we pay the bill, bid our thanks and farewells to Lee and his team and with raised spirits we make our way to the highway. We want to stop in at 'Gladstone' a campground Jan and Alan stayed at and said it was one of the prettiest campsites they had stayed at so far.

We came across a sign on the highway that said 'Gladstone' 6kms (on a dirt road)!!! We turned off the road and found the 'gate' - 'OFF RD. RECOVERY $550 Ph: 99481141 (Phone available 20kms up the road)!!!!

Jan and Alan said don't be put off by this sign and just enter the gate (making sure to close it afterwards). With our luck so far (tyres shredded, and cracked axles) we entered with trepidation and hoped that what we found was worth it.

We were not disappointed as the campground was lovely and we were amused at the sign “Thank You from the Shire of Carnarvon the cost of $1-00 per person per night. Jan had told us Alan was wondering if they give a 'Seniors Discount'!!!!

The campground was Clean, spacious, well kept and right on the edge of the calmest, prettiest part of the Indian Ocean. We were too early to camp for the night so we decided to have lunch which was just as enjoyable. Lucy enjoyed running up and down the beach and we were in 2 minds as to stay but then decided we would keep going and head north, past Carnarvon and onto Quobba Station and Blowholes about 200kms away.

The distance between towns and roadhouses here in Western Australia is very long and vast with not much to see along the way. We arrived into Carnarvon at around 5:00pm so brought some necessary supplies (Cointreau and lemons for my Margarita) among other things and headed north (70kms) to the Quobba Blowholes.

The sun was setting at around 5:50pm so it was necessary for us to get to the campground before it got too dark. Night was setting in very quickly so setting up camp in the dark was not a thought we really wanted to entertain. So, by the time we got to a huge sign 'Big Waves Kill' and darkness that had set in we were really concerned. We took the dirt road to the left (and as we could hear the loud noise of the ocean) we presumed we were in the right place.

There were many caravanners very close together along what we presumed the ocean cliff. It was very dark with no lights and it was difficult to see so we found a spot which was not great but suitable even for only the night and began to set up.

Being a campground we had no power so had to use our battery. Well! We turned the lights on and 'nothing'! We checked everything and 'nothing'! Our new battery that we had fitted when we left home almost 3 months ago was faulty. What were we to do. We were so looking forward to spending the night here, cooking by our open fire while sitting watching the night skies lighting up the millions of stars on this very clear night. It was not to be!

It was close to 7pm so we made a hasty decision to drive back to Carnarvon – 70kms away and check into a caravan park which we did. Unbeknown to us we found ourselves at the same caravan park we stayed at back in 2005 when we were travelling with Jane and Peter.

With no further dramas we checked in, found a perfect spot and spent a relaxed night, although not under the stars as we had hoped, compensation was that we had power (with TV) and clean amenities close by.

SUNDAY 24TH MAY 2009 – CARNARVON W.A. – DAY 76

Being the weekend we had a very slow day and spent the day washing, cleaning and catching up on some much needed jobs in the van.

The weather was lovely but not quite warm enough to swim so we spent the day walking and re-visiting places we had been to when we were here on our last trip in 2005.

MONDAY 25TH MAY 2009 – CARNARVON W.A. - DAY 77

Being Monday and armed with our list of things to do we drove the short distance into town and the first stop was the post office. I was keen to get the mail as I hoped my lost keys would have arrived from Perth.

I was in luck. They had arrived so going back to the car, I decided to use my original keys to start the car.

Nothing!!!! It seemed we had a problem with the ignition. After many attempts with no luck we decided to phone the local Mitsubishi Truck Dealer (they were the closest thing to a Mitsubishi Car Sevice Centre here in Carnarvon. The kind gentleman informed me that he only dealt in selling new trucks but had an apprentice mechanic who had done a bit of work on Pajero Cars so he would send him out to see us!

I was a bit bored with waiting so I told Nick I would go and have a look at the shops.

Within about 5 minutes of me going I got a phone call from his to say the car had started with no problems. I made my way back to the car immediately.

We finished our jobs and headed back to camp and began to get ready and organised for our early pack up and departure in the morning. We also booked the car into a local mechanic to have the ignition problem checked out as it appeared to have been fixed we weren't keen to drive too long a distance on these remote roads if we were to encounter problems.

TUESDAY 26TH MAY 2009 – CARNARVON TO CORAL BAY W.A. - DAY 78

We pack up and are organised to leave early. This is the 'best' pack up we have had. However, our gloating doesn't last for long. I get into the car and turn on the ignition and nothing happens. It seems the same problem we were experiencing yesterday is still with us. Our elation turns to disappointment and we start to ask ourselves many questions. What could be happening!!! After several attempts still nothing happened and as we were to be taking the car to the mechanic by 8:00am (it was 7:30am) we phoned them to let them know what the delay was.

The mechanic said he would send a roadside service man to come to us. Within about 10 minutes what resembled the WA version of the NRMA arrived and proceeded to look for the problem.

3 hours later and after all possible problem were considered, scratching his head, he asked if by chance, would there be any more keys anywhere!!! The penny dropped........

A few weeks ago while we were in Perth I had misplaced my full set of keys. As I still hadn't found them a week later, while we were in Geraldton, and while having our car serviced we ordered and paid for another key (approx. $250-00). In the meantime the people who looked after Lucy when we went to Rottnest Island had found my set of keys in their front yard (I must have dropped them in the dark when picking her up). Kathy said she would send them to Carnarvon Post Office for us to pick up when we arrived there.

After all the van problems of the last few weeks we finally arrived into Carnarvon and went to the Post Office to pick up our mail. There was a lovely letter and my keys in a packet sent from Kathy.

Once I had my original set of keys back I began to use them (instead of the new cut one). Unbeknown to us we didn't realise that my original key would be 'de-coded', consequently every time I used that key the car would not start.

Not realising, every time Nick started the car with his keys it turned over first time!!!! Consequently, he kept saying that I was not starting the car properly each time (using my key) but when he started the car (with his key) the car started first go. We were baffled!!!!

However, now with the problem solved we discarded the original key and before long we were on the road having to visit another mechanic to remove the bolts from the new axle.

This took about an hour but we then realised we had a problem with the caravan electricals. The brakes and indicators wouldn't work. So, we then drove to a recommended auto electrician about 1km away.

After explaining the problem the young Apprentice began to try to diagnose the problem with the lights. After about 2 hours he was baffled! We then explained to him that we had a problem with the keys and the immobiliser. Well, apparently using the old de-coded key drained the car battery which affected the electricals. $150-00 later we have a new battery and we finally set off for our next destination of Coral Bay about 240kms. away

I decide that as its late I should phone through ahead to book a site at a caravan park in Coral Bay. Thankfully, we did this as we got the last site (have no idea what we would have done as there are 2 caravan parks in Coral Bay (only one takes dogs)!!!! I also mention that we want to swim with the Whale Sharks while we are there so the very kind receptionist books this for us and we are to be ready the next morning for an 8:20am departure. It all seems to be happening!

We arrive into Coral Bay at sunset, checking in finding a fairly cramped spot. The campers next to us and behind us kindly help us manouvre into our spot and as they both have dogs we find we have something in common.

After settling in we have a blissful night, looking forward to our big day tomorrow.

WEDNESDAY 27TH MAY 2009 – CORAL BAY W.A. - DAY 79

We are up early and get organised as we are to be out all day today. I feed Lucy and Nick takes her for a walk as I speak to our 'dog loving' neighbours. We mention to them that we will be out all day and that we are going to leave Lucy, tied up on her leash, attached to the van.

I have already mentioned this to the delightful receptionst here at the caravan park and she said whilst it is not a practice they entertain in our case they would check on Lucy to make sure she is ok. We have also been reassured by our neighbours they will do the same, the lady next door even offering to take her for a walk if she gets bored.

We leave plenty of water and some food plus her toys, bid her goodbye and make a quick getaway up the road and to where we have to meet the guides for our whale shark trip.

There are 10 other passengers of differing ages so we introduce ourselves and make small talk until we leave on our mini bus to make our way to the boat ramp. We board the small 9 metre cruiser which appears comfortable but lacks adequate seating but feel we will be so busy overboard we won't need seating.

Our guides are Maia and Michael and skipper Pedro. We are in their trusty hands for the day. The first couple of hours is spent inside the reef where we are shown the emergency procedures before donning our snorkelling gear for a 'test' snorkel. We all, except one man, dive into the water with no problems, although I must admit I am a little apprehensive of what lies ahead.

All back on the boat we then make our way to the other side of the reef (in dark dark blue water) I am even more apprehensive as we are given instructions as to how our dive will take place and what we might expect. Also a few rules and regulations (as outlined by the Department of Environment and Conservation.)

Not much information is known on Whale Sharks and their habits so at the moment these dives are in initial stages. With the help of very experienced Marine Biologists and different techniques the authorities are trying to learn as much about these 'fish' as they can.

There are 3 boats out here at the moment and we all share a 'spotter plane'. This plane will comb the skies searching for these creatures – also for other predators that we are not keen to encounter.

We just have to wait!!!!!

While we are waiting a pod of huge sperm whales approach us and put on a fantastic display for us, coming extremely close to our boat giving us a birds eye view.

As the time passes, there is still no word from the spotter plane but all our eyes are glued to the ocean.

After 5 hours still nothing so we are told the spotter planes have to return to their base and we will head back to shore but on the way will stop at a reef where we can snorkel with some harmless reef sharks among other marine life. Although slightly disappointed, we understand when dealing with nature it won't always go the way we'd like. We have had a fabulous day nevertheless, met some great people and learned a lot about The Ningaloo Reef.

We arrive back at camp and to Lucy who is so excited to see us. We are met by our neighbours who have kept an eye on her all day and have reported she was very well behaved.

We are so tired we order a Pizza for tea and have an early night.

Monday 18th May to Thursday 21st May

MONDAY 18TH MAY 2009 – DENHAM W.A. - DAY 70 (CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS DAY)

Nick arrives home from his morning fishing expedition and he is elated as he has caught 2 beautiful size fish. One was a snapper and the other a local coral cod. There is one huge problem though!

As we are not fishing people we have no idea (or equipment) to scale and fillet these marine specimens. I guess that is why I am not a very keen fisherman. I hate the thought of me being responsible for ending their life and whilst I love to eat a freshly caught piece of fish I am not in favour of these recreational fisherman who catch loads and loads of fish, take them home to freeze them for 6 months. If you can't eat immediately what you catch then I think you shouldn't be fishing. There are supposed to be rules and regulations and heavy fines for people who do this but as we have been told it is not closely policed.

We will eat the snapper tonight and the coral (whatever it is) tomorrow night. Nevertheless, Nick had a really enjoyable day (but at $145-00 for his excursion) I think it would have been cheaper at the local fish and chip shop!!! But don't tell him...

TUESDAY 19TH MAY 2009 – DENHAM W.A. - DAY 71

Another morning of gorgeous sunshine. We are told there is a cooler wet change on its way. We haven't had rain since we were in Augusta a few weeks ago but apparently they haven't had rain in this area for months.

I am getting to know the locals, the lady in the supermarket, the lady in the newsagent and as I drive down the main street there is a family of emus that have the right of way on the roadways or the pathways, into the shops where they want. It is quite a unique site and I guess what makes this little seaside town, really a lovely place to be stranded.

The local policeman here are also very friendly and as I meet a couple of the young boys in blue at the local post office as I am walking across the road they are driving towards me and actually stop to let me cross. All this with a friendly smile and wave. It wouldn't happen in the city!!!

WEDNESDAY 20TH MAY 2009 – DENHAM W.A. - DAY 72

I get a text message today from Jan and Alan and they tell us they have been snorkelling with the whale sharks at Coral Bay which is on our list 'to do'! They are going to head out to the National Park off Ningaloo Reef, early in the morning which they will love as we spent a few memorable days there when we travelled to this area in 2005. The days were glorious, the ocean was calm and warm and the marine life was abundant. I am very jealous as, even though we weren't going to that area again this time it is paradise nevertheless.

Our day is spent swimming, reading and catching up on emails.

THURSDAY 21ST MAY 2009 – DENHAM W.A. - DAY – 73

Boredom is really setting in and we wake up to wind and the threat of rain so I suggest we go for a drive somewhere. The thought of staying here for too many more days is not very appealing and despite Denham being a lovely little seaside town we are very keen to move on.

There is a Telegraph Station at a place called Hamelin Pool about 130kms from here so we decide to drive there.

The scenery is very boring but at least it is an outing and the Devonshire tea at the Telegraph Station is delicious and worth it and the history very interesting.

While we are out we get a phone call from the man who is going to fix the axle and he says the new one has arrived (we weren't expecting it until early next week) so our spirits are lifted. We have to pack up early and have the van to him by 8:00am where he will take the day to do the repairs.

We decide to drive back to camp and begin to pack up.

While I check my emails we get some bad news from our friends Peter and Jane in New Zealand. We travelled around Australia with them in 2005 and have been very very close and firm friends ever since, continuing our close relationship over the last 5 years.

Jane was diagnosed with ovarian cancer in late 2004. Consequently, they sold their business, cars and home and brought a 4 wheel drive vehicle and pop top caravan. We met them at Kingscliff and as we had much the same plans in our minds we decided it might be fun to travel together. This was one of the most fantastic and memorable experiences we have ever had and despite Jane having interrupted spells during the trip where she had to travel home to NZ for chemotherapy it cemented a loyal and lifelong friendship between us all.

Peter and Nick have the same sense of humour and interests and Jane and I have the same personalities so it made our trip that much more exciting and fun with lots of laughs and a huge pleasure to be travelling for 8 months together.

We then had a wonderful trip to Thailand with them 2 years ago in May 2007. In August last year we spent 8 lovely days with them travelling throughout the north of New Zealand and I'm sure they enjoyed showing us their country as much as we enjoyed seeing it. These are memories that will stay with us forever!

Jane has just been told by her doctors that she now only has weeks until the end, quite a shock as we always thought, with her positive attitude and happy disposition she would beat this retched disease.

We are not sure what our plans will be next so we will phone Peter in the morning and we will then make some decision!

Thursday 14th May to Monday 18th May

THURSDAY 14TH MAY – DENHAM WA – DAY 66

We spent the day packing up to get ready for our departure in the morning. Our plans are that we will drive to Carnarvon but as Jan and Alan are further ahead of us they have told us that we should have an overnight stay at 'Gladstone' which is a very pretty location which we will. Then we will head to Carnarvon (where we will pick up our mail) then up to Red Bluff and Quobba Station for a couple of nights.

From here we will head back to Carnarvon for a night then up towards Coral Bay. Our first priority is to get a new brake cable and have our tyres checked which we will do first thing tomorrow.

However, best laid plans can come unstuck (which you will read further on)!!!!!!

FRIDAY 15TH MAY – DENHAM WA – DAY 67

We pack up early and surprised how easy it is. We are now so organised at this I think the secret is that we have our own 'job descrptions' and it takes me the same amount of time to do my jobs as it does Nick so we 'check out' of this lovely park and head to the Industrial area where we will get our brake cable repaired.

This is done without any problem and we then decide to go across the road to get our tyres checked before heading north to Carnarvon.

After some discussion we are told we have major problems!!!!! Our caravan axle has cracked which puts stress on the wheels and this is the reason we have had to change tyres so regularly. The tyre man calls in the local steel fabrication man to give a second opinion and he agrees it will be very dangerous for us to continue our journey with this problem

After many phone calls we will need to wait until a new custom made axle comes from Perth, then it will need to be fitted. This whole process could take up to a week. The cost is $1200-00.

We decide this is the best and safest option so we go back to the Denham Seaside Caravan Park and camp there until the job can be complete.

There is nothing more for us to see here but we have no other choice. We head back to the caravan park and check in, getting almost the same site as we had before. At least the view is lovely and we could think of worse places to be stuck.

Lee, the steel fabrication man we had been dealing with must have felt sorry for us in our predicament so, him being and avid fisherman, he gave us a freshly caught piece of Shark Bay Coral Trout which he had caught the day before.

We spend the day around camp, walking Lucy and swimming in the bay near by.

The sunsets here are spectacular with the whole sky turning different shade of red. It is certainly a contrast from the sunrises over the ocean we see in the east.

Tonight is the last night of the Fishing Fiesta which has been held here over the past week. They are celebrating with a fireworks display at 9pm so our camp is in the best spot for a spectacular front row view. We wonder if they will be as good as we got so used to when we lived in our city apartment where fireworks were a common practice. We will see!!

I cook the fresh fish for dinner and by 9pm the fireworks begin. 15 minutes of a very spectacular display and yes, we would say they were as good as what we became used to and the applause at the end was testament to how they were enjoyed by many of the spectator on the shore.

SATURDAY 16TH MAY – DENHAM WA – 68

Compensation of being 'stuck' here is that the location is picture postcard and the weather is absolutely glorious. We are treating this part of our journey as a very relaxing holiday (not that the rest of it has been that hard to take).

The main thing on everyone's lips at the moment here in the west Daylight Saving. We were under the assumption that every state in Australia except Queensland had daylight saving but Western Australians don't have it and still take part in the debate. Today is voting day and it is interesting to hear the 'fors' and the 'againsts' from many of the locals.

Dinner this evening is at the 'Old Pearler Restaurant' which is the only finer dining restaurant in the area.

It is the only restaurant in the world to be built predominantly of sea shells. The shells are essentially of the small molusc family being bonded together by pressure, and calcium (as found in shells). Shell stocks come from the Hamelin Pool area and blocks were cut by saw from the ground. The restaurant was built by an Englishman who in 1974 took some three to four years cutting and laying the shell block.

The Old Pearler Restaruant is undisputedly the most photographed building in Shark Bay and it is also the most Westerly restaurant in Australia.

We enjoyed our night immensely and met many 'locals' and as the Swans had just beaten the West Coast Eagles (not that we follow the AFL) we felt very proud to be from the East.

SUNDAY 17TH MAY – DENHAM WA – 69

Well the news is in!!! It is 'No' to Daylight Saving. The no vote won by quite a majority so we say, this referendum has been put to rest, for the time being however, I can't help feeling this, like the Queensland debate will never go away! We will wait and see.

Not much to do today so we spend today around camp and as the weather is gorgeous we walk and swim in the bay close by.

MONDAY 18TH MAY – DENHAM WA – 70

We rise to another 'stunning day' and it will be perfect weather for Nick's day of fishing. I tell him I won't organise anything for dinner except the hot pan ready for the lovely fresh fish he will bring home.

I spend the morning on my computer, answering emails and I hear from Jan and Alan who are on skype – this is where I can talk and see Jan via the computer. Will have to make sure I have my make up on and wearing my pearls!!!!

I also get phone calls from Mitch and Chelsea who need some 'motherly advice'. It is great to talk to them as I feel so far away and I miss them terribly.