26 June to 11 July

FRIDAY 26TH JUNE 2009 – KUNUNURRA TO KATHERINE W.A... - DAY 109

Our departure from Kununurra is without any problems as we head east towards Katherine. It is a long tedious day of driving and we notice the scenery is quite boring compared to driving into Kununurra.

As we still have radio contact we are saddened by the news of the death of Farrah Fawcett Majors. Her battle with cancer finally coming to an end. I will never forget trying to copy 'that hairstyle' in my youth in the 70's.

We were also shocked at the sudden death of Michael Jackson at the young age of 50. I am sure he had a very tormented life but love him or dislike him he made a huge contribution to the music industry. I'm sure these 2 performers, in their own right, will be sorely missed.

We stop a couple of times to let Lucy have a 'comfort stop' and us to stretch our legs before being back in the car and continuing our journey. Just as well we can share the driving as amazingly is gets very tiring driving these long distances between stops.

Our arrival into Katherine is around 4:00pm so we check into the first caravan park we come across 'The Riverview' and are told it is full. I phone the Tourist Information Centre who tell us Munbullo Homestead Caravan Park is our next best option. This Homestead was 3kms off the highway on our way in so we have to back track to get there.

It is another working cattle station with a caravan park attached so we find a lovely shady site with views to the paddock with many adorable Brahman cows. Lucy is fascinated as we also see some wallabies. We decide to stay hooked up for the night to make an easier getaway in the morning.

Just on dark a ute arrives with hundreds of fat rockmelons on board. We are told these are the 'seconds' and they bring them here to give to anyone who wants them and what is left over goes to the cows! Lucky cows.

We are given two of the fattest rockmelons we have seen and can't wait to cut them open. We will have them after our chops and sausages for dinner. Lucy enjoys a closer look at the cows as they devour these juicy pieces of fruit.

SATURDAY 27TH JUNE 2009 – KATHERINE W.A TO DALY WATERS N.T. - DAY 110

Up early and we are on our way. We get petrol in Katherine and as its Saturday morning the town is buzzing. There is a local market on but as we have a long drive we decline the urge to 'have a closer look' and head south..

In the meantime I have phone messages from our friends from Adelaide David and Helen. They are in Cairns at the moment in their caravan and are wondering where we are. I contact them and let them know where we are and that we are probably about 5 or 6 days from them. They will stay in Cairns until Tuesday (30th) and then will head up to Port Douglas. We will try to meet up with them there and spend some time with them if possible.

We head to Mataranka where 4 years ago we swam in the idyllic clear waters of Bitter Springs here so we were keen to repeat this. We were not sure whether to stay at the caravan park there for the night or drive on. We would make a decision after our swim.

Once we are there we are surprised at how 'busy' it has become with many signs and an extended carpark. We knew this place to be really isolated and hoped it had not become to 'well known'.

We left Lucy in the cool of the van while we donned our swimmers and towels and walked the short distance to the pools. There were about a dozen people of varying ages in the water and despite being a 'bit crowded' for our liking we plunged in nevertheless.

The water was very warm – possibly a little too warm but the crystal clear water, the lovely vegetation and view through the water to the bottom was spectacular. There was quite a strong current which swept us southwards. We noticed a couple of platforms on either side which had been erected since our last visit which, we assume for safety purposes, to make it easier to emerge if you wished. We were swept about 200metres to the end and had to climb up a ladder to a bridge. Nick decided he would swim back to the beginning which was very difficult but as he informed a 'good workout'. I elected to walk back.

After about an hour we dried off, had some lunch then decided to continue our journey to Daly Waters another couple of hours drive south.

By the time we got there it was full with only unpowered sites left. We decided, as we were going to have dinner at the pub that night we would not need power and for what power we did need (ie our fridge etc) we could use our battery.

The Pub hasn't changed at all since we were here 4 years ago. Maybe a few more bras lining the bar. This is a place of much memorabilia where patrons tend to leave something. It could be as simple as a business card to international drivers licences to international currency to undies, caps, thongs (the ones you wear on your feet that is) etc. It makes up an eclectic mix of an interesting tradition that travellers have left over many years,

Saturday nights at the Daly Waters Pub are very popular and many campers coincide their stop here on that day. They have a 'Beef and Barra' night where they serve the freshest barra and juiciest beef. They also have a show with a country and western theme and comedian.

It was a fun night and the food delicious but as we had an early start the next day we were in bed by 9:30pm.

SUNDAY 28TH JUNE 2009 – DALY WATERS TO BARKLY HOMESTEAD – N.T. - DAY 111

7am start it took no time to pack up. Amazing how quick we can be when all we have to do is make the bed and stow the tables and chairs.

We were not sure how far we would drive today but as the passing view were as tedious as they were yesterday we were keen to get this part of our journey over.

Our longest drive so far as we clocked up almost just on 600kms we stop at Barkly Homestead just past 3 ways turn off. We are given a 'drive though' powered site and sit under a lovely shady tree close by to enjoy our 5 o'clock drinks (despite only being 3:10pm as our friends Peter and Jane in NZ would say 'its 5:00 somewhere in the world)!!!!

The Homestead put on a lovely Sunday night roast and the alternative is sausages so we decide for $12-00 the roast sounds good. Which it is.

People in caravan parks eat and go to bed so early by the time we get to the restaurant it is full and it is just 6pm. We find a table and enjoy the roast with a lovely bottle of red. By 9pm we are in bed – no washing up or cleaning up – I could really get used to this!!!

MONDAY 29TH JUNE 2009 – BARKLY HOMESTEAD TO MT ISA – DAY 112

Problem again with caravan tyre – apparently we have a crack in the axle near the tyre. We have it Soldered and the mechanic asks us to keep and eye on it. Once we are on the East Coast we will find a lovely quiet spot and set up camp, perhaps staying for a couple of weeks.

I try to phone our friends from Kingscliff Rose and Don, as guaging by our estimated travel distances, and their well planned itinerary we don't think we will see them. Rose has gone to so much trouble with 'fine tuning' their itinerary unfortunately we will probably miss them by a day.

We have a fairly boring day driving trying to get across to the East now. We get to Mt Isa and decide to camp there for the night. There is a lovely camp ground about 4kms before arriving into town so after filling up with petrol and buying ice (for our gin and tonics mainly) we drive across the river.

Our camp site is fantastic, a drive through and we seem to be on our own. We don't have to unhook so it is not long before we are enjoying our “5seys”' as we listen to the local birds. Apart from the busy 'detour' road we discovered not far away we disregard the noise and enjoy our g & t's.

TUESDAY 30TH JUNE 2009 - MT ISA TO HUGHENDEN QLD – DAY 113

We rise early and are away at 7am wondering whether we will head across to Townsville or to Cloncurry then up to Normanton. We travelled the latter on our last trip and despite having to 'back track' a bit once we get to Cairns we decide we will take that option.

When we are travelling we tend not to have breakfast, preferring for me to make fresh sandwich and hot coffee to eat on the way. Then after driving for about 4 hours (2 hours each) we stop at a roadhouse for a comfort stop, fresh coffee and a sandwich. We decided we would do this in Cloncurry.

After driving past the first roadhouse we pulled into the second one a 'Shell Roadhouse', filled up with petrol and then ventured into order our coffee and sandwiches. We had only been sitting there for about 10 minutes when we heard a familiar voice. “Amazing who you run into when least expect'!!!! We couldn't believe our eyes as we greeted our friends Rose and Don. Unbelievable!!! They had were travelling from the East and just so happened to decide on the spur of the moment to stop in Cloncurry. They, like us, drove past the first roadhouse and decided to come into the second roadhouse (as we did). They had decided to digress a little from their very 'fine tuned' itinerary and amazingly had not received my text message as to our 'change of direction'.

This similar coincidence also occurred with them and us back in Airlie Beach in 2005. A long story I won't go into but we realised we must have very similar ideas!! We sat and talked to them, caught up on family, friends and news from each other in general. They would be heading to Katherine to meet Jan and Alan so would have great delight on telling them this story of our chance meeting.

Farewells were bid with assurances that we would see them back in Kingscliff when we all arrive there in late August.

On our very first 'serious camping' experience we hired a camper (similar to Jan and Alan's). We, together with our daughter Chelsea were going with them and their youngest daughter Lisa joining Rose and Don and their son Rheece to spend 2 weeks travelling to Carnarvon Gorge to 'see whether this life was for us'!. After a few problems and Rheece, Chelsea and I getting a stomach bug – not very endearing when camping and needing to run to the toilet it was not a huge success. Nick, Chelsea and I ended up in Hughenden in a motel room in the local pub, awaiting a part for our Honda which had broken down in the middle of nowhere. I must admit as basic as the motel was it was like the “Hilton” compared to the camper. This being our very first experience we made the decision then camping was not for us.

That night we had a Chinese meal at the local restaurant downtown and one place I'm sure we would never forget.

We arrived into this very familiar town, stocked up at the local bottle shop with our wine and beer and headed to the local caravan park. It was lovely, very clean, and grassed. The owners were hosting a BBQ night but as we had already brought 'Chines' (for old times sake) we enjoyed that with a glass of wine and as we had a long drive again tomorrow, we had an early nigh.

WEDNESDAY 1ST JULY 2009 – HUGHENDEN TO CARDWELL QLD - DAY 114

As we were already hooked up we got away early and would drive all day. This sort of travelling is very tiring but worth it in the end as once we get somewhere nice to just 'stop' for a few days and enjoy the 'scenery' is worth it.

I phoned our friends David and Helen (from Adelaide) who were staying at Ellis Beach just past Cairns in their caravan and decided we would meet up tomorrow at Newell Beach, about 4kms from Mossman and just north of Port Douglas. David offered kindly to book each of us a site for 3 nights (Thursday, Friday and Saturday) then we would decide where to go next.

Another full day of driving but with scenery of lovely mountains, blue ocean, many cane and banana plantations it was evident we were approaching the tropics and a warm familiar feeling was being experienced by both of us that we were closer to 'home' and our children and grandchildren who we miss terribly.

By 4pm we were driving into Cardwell. This is a lovely seaside town on the coast with magnificent views of the Great Barrier Reef and Hinchinbrook Island across the water. We found a lovely caravan park opposite the beach and booked in for 1 night, conveniently staying hooked up ready for our early departure in the morning.

THURSDAY 2ND JULY 2009 – CARDWELL TO NEWELL BEACH QLD - DAY 115

We rise early and take Lucy for a walk across to the beach. This is a lovely area and nice caravan park so we decide to stay here for longer on our way back in about 5 weeks time.

It is not a very long drive today and we are getting excited to be catching up with our very dear friends with much anticipation of spending some time with them.

We drive through the town of Mossman and follow directions to Newell Beach 4kms further on. As we turn into the road that takes us to the caravan park and to the beach we notice a lovely golf course. As Helen and David are keen golfers Nick says now I know why they chose this place!!!! He didn't realise I chose this place as the caravan park is 'pet friendly' something which is very scarce up here.

We check in and are shown to our site. It would have to be the worst site as far as manouvring the princess into place. I am better at 'reversing' while Nick is better at navigating so together with the help of David we get into our 'tight' spot with no trouble and to the obvious delight of all the onlookers. Helen, with thumbs up greets me with a huge hug and assures me she knew I could do it.

We Set up camp and Helen invites us to share a delicious roast dinner with them which is very much appreciated after our last 5 days of quick make-do meals we have had while on the road.

Over dinner we decide to play golf tomorrow at the Mossman Golf Club, the one we admired on our way in. I could see Nick was not so keen on the idea but with Helen, David and I so enthusiastic he went along with the idea anyway.

FRIDAY 3RD JULY 2009 – NEWELL BEACH QLD - DAY 116

By 7:45am we were up and on the golf course early – 18 holes. I urge Nick that with my painful heel spur I would like to use a cart, reluctantly he agrees and before long we are hitting off the first hole.

David and Helen play golf regularly in Adelaide and are very good players, Nick and I not so regular but we played on nevertheless.

The scenery on the course was lovely with the magnificent view of the mountains and even a rainforest between holes. After 4 hours, our game was over and despite some bad shots by mainly Nick and I we enjoyed the day immensely.

After an easy afternoon we all get together here for drinks and I cook thai chicken curry for dinner.

SATURDAY 4TH JULY 2009 – NEWELL BEACH QLD - DAY 117

There are the weekly Saturday morning markets at Mossman so the 4 of us, and Lucy head into town. They are like any other small town market and we buy a few small items, enjoy coffee talking to some of the locals. On our way back to camp we decide we will take our lunch to Katherine Gorge. We might even have a swim.

The Gorge is beautiful but so crowded. We are amazed at how many people there are there and as such not very inviting to swim. We walk into the rainforest and look out and listen to the colourful butterflies and birds along the way. There is a small picnic area where we have lunch before driving back to camp, enjoying some lovely scenery along the way.

This is such a lovely place we decide to extend our stay and re-book for another 3 nights. Back at camp we spend the afternoon relaxing then taking a long walk on beach with Lucy/ before having dinner and an early night.

SUNDAY 5TH JULY 2009 – NEWELL BEACH QLD - DAY 118

Port Douglas is not far from Mossman and after noticing many more accommodation units and houses from our last visit, we drive to the lookout. The view is spectacular and despite the 'overcrowding' feeling on the ground from here the vast countryside of mountains, palm trees and ocean camouflages the buildings below

Down the mountain and after parking the car walk to the Markets a short distance away. These markets are huge and very upmarket compared to the small town ones at Mossman. Helen and I leave David and Nick at the local cafe across the road or as I call it 'The bored husbands chairs' while we help the local economy. I buy 3 lovely summer dresses, very reasonable and well made by a delightful local lady by the name of Pam. I will put them away to take on our short 5 day trip to Dunk Island.

We have lunch at a local cafe and are astounded at the price but remember this is Port Douglas. We then drive back to our camp. David cooks a lovely bbq for dinner which we enjoy together as we make plans for another game of golf the next day. A time Is decided on and we will make it earlier than last as despite being winter here the daily temperature gets up to 30 degrees, very warm to be playing golf so we decide to hit off at 7:30am sharp.

MONDAY 6TH JULY 2009 – NEWELL BEACH QLD - DAY 119

We are up early and hit off for our morning game of golf at 7:30am. Helen assures me she thinks I have improved since our last game 2 days ago. I am not so confident but I am enjoying it nevertheless.

I beat my last round by 5 shots. I could get to enjoy this and I am sure the secret is to play often. I speak to Jan and Alan on the phone who are in Katherine with Rose and Don and other friends Carol and Les. Jan is impressed that we are playing more. I tell her I am going to be much more improved by the time we get to Tweed Heads in late August so will be ready for a game with her and Alan. Jan's handicap is 16 and Alan is even less so I am keen to play more to hopefully improve by the time we see them.

We spend the afternoon relaxing and I cook a roast pork dinner. Tomorrow we decide we will drive up to Cape Tribulation and into the Rainforest for a picnic.

TUESDAY 7TH JULY 2009 – NEWELL BEACH QLD – DAY 120

We pack a picnic lunch and leave early to drive to Cape Tribulation/and the Daintree National Park which is about 70kms from Newell Beach. We enjoy the many river crossings along the way and all eagerly look out for the elusive crocs which we have heard so much about.

The dense rainforest is spectacular and so cool. We could imagine this site after the wet season and how amazing the swollen creeks and rivers would look during that time. The temperature here at the moment is perfect with warm days and cooler nights. Can't imagine how uncomfortable it would be in the summer months though.

We stop at a parking area in the national park and as we have little Lucy with us she prevents us from venturing too far. I am happy to stay with her while the others venture further onto the walking tracks. It is not long before they are back and urge me to go to look at a wild Casowary bird not far from the car park.

It is a very regal bird with its colourful head, the size of a small emu. There are many signs along the roadside indicating to beware of them crossing the roads.

Cape Tribulation is very crowded with obviously many tourists. Note the photo as I named it 'knees up mother brown' of all the tourists sunbaking with their knees up. We can take Lucy to the beach here so this is where we set up our picnic.

The water is a bit too cold for a swim and always the fear of a hungry croc lurking we are content to take a lovely walk and many photos. On our drive back we stop at Cow Beach and in my opinion just as pretty as Cape Tribulation. I let Lucy off her lead and she has a lovely time frolicking in the ocean and running in the sand as we follow her and take many photos of her.

We enjoy a little bit of beach 4 wheel driving before enjoying the changing scenery as we head back to our camp

Back at camp I cooked what's left in fridge, we watch some tv and head to bed after a lovely day in this lovely part of the world.

WEDNESDAY 8TH JULY 2009 – NEWELL BEACH TO FLYING FISH POINT - DAY 121

Today we have to say our sad farewells as we head in different directions. Helen and David are going inland toward Atherton and we will go back down the coast to Innisfail and a little place about 6kms towards the beach which Helen recommended to us called Flying Fish Point. We haven't made a booking which we have been told anywhere here and down the coast is essential. It is so hard as we like to view our potential address before we make any commitment. Despite this we decide to take a chance and if we like it we hopefully get a spot.

Our last 6 days have been so enjoyable we decide we will make more opportunities of catching up with our lovely southern friends more often. We each have so much in common we will make some plans for another holiday together in the near future.

As we drive through Cairns we stop at a lovely seafood outlet, one I remember from our last visit. We buy fresh cooked prawns, fresh green prawns and oysters which we will enjoy over the next 3 days. Something about being on the coast with the need of eating fresh seafood.

We arrive into Innisfail a lovely sugar cane town and find directions to Flying Fish Point 6kms to the beach. As we come into 'town' 1 shop and drive along the beach we come to a lovely caravan park. This area is not unlike Newell Beach and it is evident the developers haven't discovered these little places AS YET!!!! So unspoiled and lots of small timber beach houses dotted along the beach. I'm sure we could pick up a real bargain here as far as real estate goes. Just a shame it is so far from our families as it would be the perfect place to retire.

As we speak to the delightful Manager of the park we are in luck. There are only 2 spots left – not the best sites but close to the amenities (which Nick says is important to him) and lots of lovely palm trees around which gives us privacy and very easy access to the dog friendly beach. Although not the most ideal it will do so we book for a week. Like Newell Beach Caravan Park it is very friendly. We find these parks which mainly cater for people with dogs are the best. The big expensive tourist parks which cater for kids have the flash swimming pools and water slides etc are not so friendly. We have even met caravanners who don't have dogs and opt to stay in the pet friendly parks as they say the atmosphere is better and more relaxed.

We set up camp and with Lucy on her lead we head to the beach. She again, is in heaven. She loves nothing more than to be frolicking beside us, running up and down the beach at a million miles an hour before plunging into the ocean. She is in puppy heaven and we can't help thinking this little dog has had so many experiences from when she was chosen by Chelsea and me as a puppy in a cramped little cage at a pet shop in Sydney's Parramatta.

From there we brought her home to a 10th floor highrise apartment with spectacular views of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House with her playground Observatory Park where all the 'in dogs' and their owners would hang out.

Her next address was Tweed Heads for 3 months where we spent renovating our 'Pet Friendly' holiday house and her likes and dislikes certainly influenced some decision we made for that project.

After that she lived at a Caravan Park in Rockdale for 8 months with us while we were endeavouring to locate and eventually renovate our cottage in Randwick. With the fantastic Coogee leash free park close by what more could an active little dog want.

2 years later she is all packed and ready to go travelling around Australia. What a life this little dog has had in her 4 short years. She has had so many experiences and been to so many locations but when it all boils down to it – we don't think she cares where she is as long as she is with us. We think she is a very lucky little dog nevertheless!!!!! But also she gives us many many hours of pleasure in return.

THURSDAY 9TH JULY 2009 – FLYING FISH POINT QLD – DAY 122

I leave Nick this morning as he wants to potter around camp and I want to have a look at the shops. I head into town and park the car – again despite being a busy little town parking is so much easier than in Sydney. I park the car and walk up and down the strip where I find a lovely big sewing shop. This shop has an array of beautiful fabrics, cottons, ribbons and laces and after about an hour I emerge armed with lovely ribbons for my hair and some antique lace for my patchwork quilt. Where I will put it I have no idea but half the fun is designing.

A quick wander through the rest of the shops and a detour to the supermarket where I buy some supplies before heading back to camp.

I spend the afternoon sewing while Nick reads one of the many books he has been enjoying.

There are a couple who are camped just up from us and have 2 lovely dogs 'Jake and Jess'. We take Lucy for a long walk on the beach and meet up with them so Lucy loves the challenge of seeing who can run the fastest. I am really making an effort in training her to come back when I call her. She is not too bad but when there is another dog who she can run and have fun with certainly makes the training a little more difficult. The liver treats I have purchased for her make a huge difference though and our trainng efforts are, despite being somewhat slow, is paying off. Consistency is the key here though!!

FRIDAY 10TH JULY 2009 – FLYING FISH POINT QLD - DAY 123

It is a public holiday here in Innisfail today for the Show so we decide to pack a picnic lunch, our swimmers and towel and drive the 30kms to Babinda. This is a pretty little town in the heart of a busy sugar cane region. Unlike other areas of the country who battle drought, they. receives one of the highest rainfall readings in the country. Babinda wears its nickname, The Umbrella Town, and the area is understandably green and lush with some colourful public and private gardens. Those of you who watch the Today Show will remember the delightful newsreader Sharon Ghidella where Babinda is the town she grew up. After leaving Channel Nine and the Today Show she gave birth to a son and returned to Brisbane where she is a regular newsreader on the 7 network evening news.

The Babinda Sugar Mill, which stands sentry at the town's northern entrance, becomes a hive of activity during the can crushing season. We are witness to many cane trains where tiny locomotives pull carriages piled high with sugar cane.

We decide to stop at the local Tourist Information Centre where we gather much information for us to investigate. Over coffee we mill over the many things to see and do and while there we meet another couple who are also visitors staying at the local caravan park at Bramston Beach. They have a lovely large dog who Lucy entertains while we enjoy our coffee and chat. We decide to check out Bramston Beach on our way back to Flying Fish Point this afternoon.

A drive through town reveals a thriving arts and crafts community and excellent early Queensland architecture.in the State Hotel, Post Office and Railway Station. We head up towards Josephine Falls which is a stunning picnic spot but as it is really crowded we decide to drive further.

Just north of here is a place we find called Golden Hole. It is a beautifully manicured picnic and recreation area in the middle of the bush. The sound of the waterfall nearby echoes in our ears as we hear a group of white water rafters emerging from the water. They hike 1.9kms up the mountain and raft from there to where we are here at Golden Pond. It looks and sounds so much and by the looks and expression on the faces of the participants it as they say is something not to be missed. As this group appear to be quite a bit younger than us I might think about that.

We walk down a track with our picnic gear where we come to a secluded oasis. It is a freshwater swimming hole with the clearest and cleanest water we have seen in amongst a beautiful rain forest.. I let Lucy off her lead and she has a lovely time running and playing in the water. My fears of crocs are put to the back of my mind as she is almost giggling as she runs.

There is a stray dog roaming around, actually huge black labrador pup we have no idea who belongs to. Lucy finds a friend and we have great delight watching them play together as if they own this piece of heaven. We enjoy our picnic lunch before Nick decides he needs to swim in the water. Its just a little fresh for me but I will not rule out a swim altogether. I enjoy sitting on the banks watching Nick and Lucy swim and play and enjoying the seclusion, peace and quiet.

On our way back to our camp we drive 13kms off the Bruce Highway to Bramston Beach, recommended by the couple we met in the coffee shop at Babinda. If we like it better here we book for a week after our week at Flying Fish Point. We drive through the little town of Miriwinni, the birthplace of Australian champion triathlete Brad Bevan.

Bramston Beach is off the highway as we drive past seemingly endless farmhouses and cane fields. You could say it is somewhat off the beaten track and is a very popular fishing and camping spot. We drive past the campground which is right on the beach and at the other end is the caravan park. The campground looks much more appealing than the caravan park with its very 'basic' amenities and we are not keen to have an unpowered site for any length of time so we decide to stay where we are. When we arrive back at our camp we book our site for another week – which will take us up to Wednesday 22nd July. It is nice to be set up and not have to think about moving anywhere. I must remember to recommend this place to Jan and Alan which I'm sure they would like very much.

SATURDAY 11TH JULY 2009 – FLYING FISH POINT QLD – 124

We wake up this morning to showers of rain. We were planning to head into Innisfail to go the Show but have been told it finished yesterday. The next show is in Cairns and a bit too far away so we have to abandon this idea. I need to head into town anyway as my hairdryer came into close contact with one of our curtain tie backs and with the smell of burning coming from the back of it and despite Nick's persistence that “I'm sure it will be ok” I was not convinced and decided the safest option was to throw it out and invest in a new one. My old faithful watch had also given up the ghost – I think with its age and several different time changes over the last few months and also the humidity had taken its toll.

It did not take long to replace these essential items and surprisingly for a very small outlay (definitely cheaper than Western Australian prices). With the purchase of a few supermarket items and fresh bread rolls for lunch I headed back to camp,.

I found Nick, as I often do, enjoying the intrigue and mystery of where his latest novel takes him. He is very easily entertained which makes it easier for me where I can attend to the things that need to be done without too much fuss.

We have been invited to a BBQ this evening here at the caravan park. The young Manager has caught a huge Mangrove Jack fish so is cooking it on the BBQ tonight. We just have to supply our own knives, forks, plates and salad. Cost is $9-00 each and includes a couple of raffle tickets with fine local wines being the prizes.

While we haven't really partaken in many of these nights hosted by the caravan parks I am keen to have a break from cooking and as there are many friendly people at this park it would be nice to get to know them. The fish is delicious and the company is interesting. This is one way you get to hear of other people's experiences and 'must see' places to go. It is so hard to see everything this country has to offer it is good to get information perhaps to 'tuck away' for later. This is how we found El Questro/Emma Gorge/Cape Leveque and Barn Hill Station.

We headed back to little Lucy and the comfort of our 'home' the Princess before settling in for the night to each watch our respective movies, Nick on TV me on my little Portable DVD Player. It is great to accommodate both of our tastes with these small luxuries.

16th June to 25th June

TUESDAY 16TH JUNE 2009 – WYNDHAM W.A. - DAY 99

Today we decided we would spend the morning finishing our 'housekeeping' before spending the afternoon driving to the Port and having a closer look around this area.

Wyndham is predominantly Aboriginal and despite the local Mayor trying to 'clean up' the town he is having some difficulty as a lot of the houses are in need of repair. It is such a shame to see so many of these people loitering in the parks during the afternoon with not much purpose.



WEDNESDAY 17TH JUNE 2009 – WYNDHAM TO KUNUNURRA W.A. DAY 100

Before we left the caravan park here we took some photos of “The Boab Tree”. This is supposed to be the 'oldest and largest Boab' tree in the Kimberleys around 2000 years old. We find it hard to fathom the last 50 to 80 years let alone 2000 years.

We drive the 100kms into Kununurra and we are in familiar territory as this is another place we stayed on our last trip 4 years ago. We found the Lakeside Resort Caravan Park and checked in to a lovely site right on the lake. Once we set up camp we drove into town to visit the Post Office. We were having mail sent here so after collecting it we headed to the Tourist Information Centre to gather as much information as we could.

We were told it would be impossible to take our caravan out to El Questro so we were advised the best way to stay there was to take a tent and camping gear or we could stay in the 'upmarket' tents there. Armed with all this information we headed back to camp to contemplate our options.

After a few phone calls we decided on the option of staying in the 'upmarket' tent so we booked for 3 nights. We also booked Lucy into the local Kennels, recommended to us by the receptionist at the caravan park and also paid for 3 days storage of the van. At the same time we phoned our friends Ron and Bev Tait who told us they had just booked 5 nights holiday to Dunk Island. We were going to be so close so we thought it might be nice to stay there on the island at the same time.

We were able to take advantage of the 'special' 5 nights with all meals. We just had to get there.

We thought it would be easier for us to make our way there from Mission Beach rather than Cairns so I booked the return boat trip. Kennels were also in the area so I booked that for Lucy as well. Done!!!

Satisfied with our plans we had an early night (as usual) and we would have to spend tomorrow getting organised for our 'break away'!!!



THURSDAY 18TH JUNE 2009 – KUNUNURRA W.A. DAY 101

We spent the day around camp catching up with chores. Lucy must sense something as she is not letting either of us out of her sight. We are sure she is part human!!!!! We give her extra cuddles and hope she will forgive us for leaving her. 3 days is really not that long is it!!!



FRIDAY 19TH JUNE 2009 – KUNUNURRA TO EL QUESTRO (EMMA GORGE) W.A. DAY 102

Today we had to pack up early ready to put the van in storage and take Lucy to the Kennels. When we got there a lady by the name of Rebecca greeted us. Although looking a little 'rough and ready' we felt confident that she would look after our little baby. It was made quite clear though that while she was being boarded she would have to sleep outside in a pen close to all the other dogs being boarded.

These kennels were situated on a property about 6kms from Kununurra. As we put Lucy into her 'cage' we noticed there were many other animals ie ducks with little ducklings, geese, chooks and horses. We were a little apprehensive about the chooks though as Lucy's favourite treat is fresh chicken wings, chicken necks and chicken drumsticks. We decided to distract her attention from these wandering free birds by showing her the horses which she was fascinated by. We just hoped that she didn't think she would have to catch her own dinner!!

After leaving her bedding, food, bowls and toys and hoping that she would not be cold during the night I was a little uneasy at leaving her. She has never slept outside in her short life, preferring to sleep in her warm cosy bed, inside with her own blanket and soft cuddly toy and when she gets cold at about 5am always retreats to the end of our bed to snuggle between our warm bodies.

As we gave her our goodbye cuddles and reasurred her we would return, before long we were on our way along the highway and then onto the dusty and corrugated dirt Gibb River Road. It took about an hour before we came to the turn off to the upmarket Emma Gorge Resort where we would be spending the next 3 nights.

After checking in and finding out all the local information from a very informative check-in Receptionist we booked a boat trip for tomorrow to Chamberlain Gorge. We also booked for dinner this evening in the lovely fine dining restaurant but in the meantime made our way to our 'luxury tent' which would be our home.

During the afternoon we thought we would drive to El Questro Station about 25kms further along the Gibb River Road. This is a million acre working cattle station which they have decided to cash in on a use some of the land for camping. After an ice-cream and booking dinner for the following night at the BBQ we headed back to the car. As we were doing so a familiar sight came into view. It was Jan and Alan! They also had noticed us so it was fantastic to catch up with them once again, exchange stories of each of our travels. They had also checked into the camp that day and proceeded to take us to where their camper was.

It was in the most delightful spot, right on the river amongst the trees. We had a glass of wine with them as we sat on the riverbank watching the local wallaby family across the river as intrigued by us as we were of them.

We had dinner booked back at the Resort for 7pm so after a lovely cocktail in the bar we were shown to our table. The food was delicious but as the temperature began to drop we started to freeze. We had very limited clothing with us as we had no idea it would be so cold during the nights so we made the decision to head back to Kununurra tomorrow to gather our warmer clothes and some decent walking shoes.


SATURDAY 20TH JUNE 2009 – EMMA GORGE RESORT (EL QUESTRO) W.A. - DAY 103

After our night where we were both felt the cooler temperature we decided to drive back to Kununurra and to the van to pick some extra clothing. I was very very tempted to call in to see our little girl but thought better of it as it would only disrupt her routine.

We picked up the few things we needed and drove back to Zebbedee Springs at El Questro and were in time for a lovely soak in the warm water. This area is idyllic but very popular so you have to 'pick your times' as to when to come. The Springs close each day at 12 midday to allow the high paying guests from the station to enjoy this area without all the many tourists.

After we had spent about an hour here we headed back to our car. We were shocked to find the left hand back tyre was dead flat. We didn't panic as we had encountered a couple of flat tyres on this trip and were confident we would have it changed within no time.

Not to be!!!! Despite our new jack working perfectly we couldn't undo the nuts. Apparently at our last tyre change the machines they use put the nuts back on so tight it is near impossible to get them off. We were lucky to meet a young man, Daniel who was on his day off from working in Maintenance at the station. He was fantastic and was able to contact the station to get us help.

As we were waiting (for about an hour) for this to happen Nick offered Daniel an icy cold beer which just happened to be in our esky in the boot. 3 beers each later the mechanic arrived and had our tyre fixed in no time.

We learned from Daniel though that if you want to enjoy the thermal springs without anyone else there the best time to come was after 1:30pm in the afternoon. We thought we would put this information away for later.

By the time we got back to El Questro and arranged for 2 new tyres to be fitted it was time to embark on our Chamberlain Gorge Cruise. An astounding $910-00 later and a reasurrance that we had 'the best' all terraine tyres money could buy. We told him we only wanted to buy the tyres not the whole resort!!!

We got to the jetty in time to board the boat and the trip through the gorge was spectacular. Our guides were very informative and new the area very well. We finished off the afternoon with a lovely cold glass of champagne just the thing to put the problems of the last few hours behind us.

Back on land we were to meet Jan and Alan at their camp for 5:00 drinks which we did and had lots to tell them about our day. They told us they had been to Zebbedee Springs at 6am that morning and it was like Pitt Street at Peak Hour. Too many people and dreadfully uncomforable. We told them of the information we had received earlier which gave them a newfound enthusiasm.

After a quick change in the back of the car we were ready to drive the short distance to the Station as we had booked to have the Saturday night BBQ.

It was delicious and plenty and as we were tired and not really keen to drive the 25kms back to our accommodation we weren't keen to leave it too late. I was a little apprehensive to say the least in comtemplating the rough drive home.

On our way we came across some flashing lights, a lady and 2 men and a little girl standing on the side of the road. Unfortunately they had shattered their tyre so we stopped to offer help which they said they had under control. We told them of our problems during the day, knew how they felt, but we were keen to continue our drive back to Emma Gorge.

Not problems and we were ready to have a blissful night sleep in this absolutely gorgeous place with the sounds of the night humming us to sleep.



SUNDAY 21ST JUNE 2009 – EMMA GORGE RESORT (EL QUESTRO) W.A. - DAY 104

We wake very early at the sound of the birds. It is so peaceful here with the faint sound of the waterfall in the background. I decided not to get up early as I want to enjoy the moment. By 8am we are up showered and dressed ready for breakfast. The restaurant is deserted and we are told 1 hour before it was packed. Here many of the guests rise early to venture to the various gorges and organised tours. We are going to walk to Emma Gorge about 1.6kms up a rocky trail to a turquoise pool and then to the waterfall.

We are packed with our comfortable walking shoes, plenty of water, sunscreen, swimmers and towel. The walk was graded as medium difficulty with many uneven and unsteady rocks in our path. It took us about an hour and 15 minutes to reach the turquoise pool and it was refreshing to say the least as we dived into the crystal clear water. Perfectly refreshing after our walk.

The view to the waterfall was beautiful with rainforest trees and vegetation in the foreground. It was getting warmer so we decided to head back and I think it was harder going down but we made it before it got too hot. A well earned drink was in order as we sat outside 'our tent' and enjoyed waving to the many visitors in all shapes and sizes heading up the gorge. We were glad we had been early in the cool of the day as the temperature was rising it would be terribly uncomfortable walking in the heat.

Dinner was booked in the lovely restaurant again underneath the stars and again we were not disappointed. The food was delicious and surprisingly very reasonable.

Another night spent in this beautiful destination.



MONDAY 22ND JUNE 2009 – EMMA GORGE RESORT (EL QUESTRO) TO KUNUNURRA W.A. - DAY 105

We get up early and took many photos of our 'luxury tent' and the sun coming up over the mountain before packing up the car and heading down to the restaurant for breakfast. As we were doing this we were met by Jan and Alan who wanted to have a coffee with us before they walked up to Emma Gorge and the Turquoise pool, exactly what we had done yesterday.

They were not sure then if they would stay in Wyndham so we arranged to meet them in Kununurra in a couple of days.

It took about an hour for us to get back to town and of course our first stop was to pick up Lucy. She was so excited to see us but looked well and happy and by all accounts Rebecca had looked after her perfectly.

We arrived back at the Lakeside Tourist Park, hooked up the van and were given a site next door to where we were before we went to Emma Gorge. We were greeted by Moira, Joe and their little dog Missy and told them of our mishaps tyre wise and our experience at El Questro. They are lovely people and decided we would get together for 5 O'clock drinks thisevening at our camp.



TUESDAY 23RD JUNE 2009 – KUNUNURRA W.A. - DAY 106

We had a phone call from Jan and Alan during the morning asking us to meet them at the Tourist Information Centre in town. They had come up with a plan and some suggestions which they were keen for us to hear.

Firstly, they mentioned we should do a boat trip on the Ord River with them tomorrow in a self drive – BBQ boat. This sounded fun so we agreed

Then secondly, they felt we were so close to the Bungle Bungles it would be a shame for us to miss this so they suggested we first of all have Lucy boarded at the Kennels again, buy a tent and air beds and join them for 4 days driving and staying in the National Park, doing a couple of hikes with them and then perhaps taking a helicopter flight. There was much to take in!!! Firstly, Nick was not keen to take our car over more corrugated roads and was not that keen to leave little Lucy again.

We decided to head to the Pump House Restaurant to take in and discuss what we might do.

Over fresh barramundi and a glass of wine we discussed the fors and againsts while doing this there were three delightful young girls at the next table who were obviously overhearing our conversation.

One piped up and said, if you don't do it you will be sorry!!!! They had just spent 4 days camping in this very same area and said it was spectacular and something not to be missed. Nick was convinced.

After lunch we headed back to Jan and Alan's camp to tell them we would go and would they help us choose the right camping gear!!! I can't believe we are doing this.

An hour later armed with an easily erected 4 man tent (despite for only 2 of us) and 2 self inflatable air beds plus some hiking boots, and a couple of torches we were set.

I phoned Rebecca the “Kennel Lady” and she was happy to take Lucy for 4 days – we hope Lucy will forgive us!!!



WEDNESDAY 24TH JUNE 2009 – KUNUNURRA W.A. - DAY 107

We have to have our car in town by 9:30am ready for a service and check before our rough road trip to the Bungle Bungles. But before we do this we need to stock up on supplies for the next 5 days. We head into town and do as we had planned and are driven back to camp by our mechanic Dave.

Our BBQ lunch organised we wait for Jan and Alan to turn up ready to leave to spend the day on the lake in our tin boat. The weather is perfect so armed with food, drink, and swimmers we leave shore.

Our first stop is at Jan and Alans camp where we moor and pick up some bait. Barra fishing here is very popular so we are keen to try our hand. Jan arrives back with a tiny bag of bait not sure what this will entice.

The journey up the river is slow but relaxing and we motor past the Pump House Restaurant which has become a favourite haunt with lovely coffee and delicious food. It is interesting to view it from 'the other side'.

We find a nice quiet spot and Alan pitches the line – before long it is tugging profusely. He pulls in a 'cat fish' a little on the small side but a thrill to catch nevertheless. Photos and unhook and it is thrown back. Before long there is another tug on the line. This time it is Jan who has brought in another catfish. Photos and unhook and again, it is thrown back in. Hence, the next one is quite large caught by Nick, photos and unhook and thrown back in. This is beginning to become a little repetitive but we continue on and yes you guessed it, this time it was me who hooked a small one – photo and unhook and back in it went.

After doing this for a couple of hours we decided to put away the fishing line and just enjoy our BBQ lunch washed down with icy cold beer. The lake was so calm and it was so pleasant just enjoying the peace, quiet and surrounds.

Before long it was 2:30pm and almost time to have the boat back in. We enjoyed a pleasant half hour motoring up the waterway as Jan steered our vessel into moorings with the precision of a superliner. All that boating that dad taught us when we were kids has really paid off.

Once back at camp we started to pack up ready for our departure tomorrow and get the van ready for storage once again.

Nick had to drop the mechanic back at his workshop so he took off to do that while I got packing and phoned my son Mitchell to wish him a happy 26th birthday. He was celebrating with his sister Chelsea and friends as they watched the state of origin.

Almost 2 hours had gone by and no sign of Nick. I was beginning to become very concerned especially as it was only a 5 minute drive into town. Jan and Alan were meeting us for dinner and to watch the state of origin at the local tavern so once they arrived our real worry began to set in. They drove into town to comb the streets as we thought he may have lost his way. This proved fuitless!!!!

We were all really getting extremely worried and just as I was about to phone the Police I received a phone call from Nick to say he was lost and confused and at the airport just out of town!!!! I immediately phoned Jan and Alan who went there and picked him up. Unfortunately, he had become disoriented and took the wrong turn ending up out of town at the airport.

He was terribly embarrassed and sorry he had put us through this but as we were all concerned for his safety we were pleased to see he had come to no harm and all was forgotten (for the time being anyway)!!!

As it was now getting late, and we were told it would be a 2 hour wait for dinner, our plans for dinner were abandoned and we decided as we had a big day planned for tomorrow we would head to our respective camps and have an early night. Queensland won by the way which now leaves Nick owing Alan 2 cases of beer!!!



THURSDAY 25TH JUNE 2009 – KUNUNURRA WA - DAY 108

After a fairly unsettled night we made the decision not to travel to the Bungle Bungles with Jan and Alan. We thought it best to continue our journey East so we phoned them early to break the news and decided to stay here in Kununurra an extra night. This will give us an opportunity to clean the van as the cupboards and pantry drawers need some attention. Nick washes the car and cleans it out ready to repack.

Jan and Alan phone us at around 11am to say they are heading south towards Timber Creek and then into the National Park. We are very envious as this was to be a 'real adventure' for us but obviously not meant to be. We wished them well and a safe trip and arranged to keep in touch and catch up perhaps when they get home to Cudgen in mid August. We bid them a sad farewell as they have been a huge help, with Alans knowledge and Jans efficiency they have made our problems that much easier to deal with. We will miss them terribly I am sure.

I decide to cook a roast pork dinner (mainly to use up our vegetables as we will be crossing the border tomorrow from Western Australia into Northern Territory) we are not sure of what the regulations are as far as bringing fruit across. Mind you it seems everyone we speak to are unsure as well. Despite this we will use up what we have and buy fresh across the border.

Nick takes Lucy for her usual long walk along the lake – this is the lake that, at night if you go near it and take your torch you can see 'beady eyes' just watching you. Little dogs are high on a freshwater crocs diet and they can smell them for miles so we are vigilent to keep her protected despite her having not a care in the world.

During the afternoon we head into town to fill up with petrol and buy a few things we need for the next part of our trip.

6th June 2009 to 15th June 2009

SATURDAY 6TH JUNE 2009 – BARN HILL STATION W.A. DAY 89

The wind came up in the night but as we are in amongst the trees our awning was protected. We take Lucy for her early morning walk and hope she doesn't get used to this life so much as all the beaches here at the station are 'dog friendly' and no need for a leash. She runs so freely and enjoys chasing the seagulls.

I decide to do some baking this morning and make fresh scones for morning tea. We join Fay and Jeff, Barry and Lorraine and enjoy morning tea together and listen to the many stories of their travels.


Nick spends the rest of the afternoon sunning himself and swimming at the beach while I read my book. This really is a lovely relaxing life.

SUNDAY 7TH JUNE 2009 – BARN HILL STATION W.A. DAY 90

We slide into a very easy and relaxing routine. Walking and swimming at the beautiful beach nearby. Reading our books and socialising with the many people who are staying here at the station. This is a very popular place and many people here come to stay for months at a time.



Dinner tonight is a Sunday Night Roast put on by the Station. They charge $15-00 each and all we have to do is BYO everything and they will supply the soup, roast dinner and dessert, plus entertainment.

At 5pm we head to the main area a short distance from our van.


MONDAY 8TH JUNE 2009 – BARN HILL STATION TO BROOME W.A. DAY 91

We bid farewell early to Fay and Jeff, Barry and Lorraine and head out along the corrugated 13kms to the highway, shutting making sure to shut the 2 gates to the station as we go.

It is 135kms to Broome from here so once on the bitumen road is a comfortable drive.

As we arrive into Broome we are a bit confused as there are some new roads since we were here last time. Luckily everything is well signposted so it doesn't take long to get to Cable Beach and Tarangau Caravan Park where we are booked for 5 nights.



We pay our $180-00 for the 5 nights (the most expensive caravan park so far) and are shown to a lovely shady spot on the outskirts by the fence (the allocated area for people with dogs). We manouvre the Princess into a very long narrow spot and we meet our neighbours, Clive and Sheila and their greyhound Sandy.

They brought Sandy from the pound where they told us greyhounds who have finished racing have their ears cut of (because of their racing number tatooed on them) then they are killed for dog meat. I was astounded that this was the fate of so many of these (not so pretty) but lovely loyal animals. Sheila and Clive told us that many people now are wanting older, placid dogs and are adopting them from the RSPCA and various animal shelters around the country. Despite his size, Sandy becomes a lovely mate to little Lucy.



As Clive and Sheila have arranged to have dinner out tonight we offer to petsit for them while they are out. They are happy they won't have to take Sandy with them and leave him in their big car and as they leave his dog bed and coat they head out.

It is my brother David, in Sydney, birthday today so I phone him but he must be out on the town enjoying himself as there is no answer. I leave a text message and hope that he will get it tonight before midnight.

We enjoy a night in as the dogs play outside together before tiring themselves out. Clive and Sheila arrive home about 10pm and they offer to look after Lucy if we want to go out for dinner one night. My eyes light up as I would love to go to The Cable Beach Resort for dinner so we will see.

TUESDAY 9TH JUNE 2009 – BROOME W.A. DAY 92

After a cooler and comfortable night we woke up to brilliant clear sky. I have received a message of thanks from David so we are glad he got our message.

I phoned Jan and Alan and arranged to meet them tonight at Roebuck Bay where we would see 'Stairway to the Moon'. I was desperate for some much needed 'maintenance' so I headed into the local shopping centre to find somewhere to have my nails done. I found somewhere and they were able to fit me in in 10 minutes so after a quick coffee and scout around the shops I made my way back to the salon.

A delightful young British girl, Sabrina, was appointed to me and it was interestng to listen to her story of travelling and working around the world. She will leave here in November before heading back to Sydney then home.

I returned back to camp feeling like a new woman before getting a call from Jan and Alan.

Alan's sisters husband's brother Murray and his wife Marie from The Gold Coast were here in Broome as part of their round Australia oddyssey. They were keen for us to meet up so we arranged to change plans from 'Stairway to the Moon' and have sunset drinks on Cable Beach. We had done this on our last trip with Jane and Peter so would be a little bitter sweet. We agreed to meet and drive on the beach to a perfect spot where we would watch the sunset.



It, as usual, was spectacular and joining many others with the same idea it gets quite busy with 4 x 4 wheel drive vehicles everywhere. The relatively inconspicuous presence of police vehicles keeps everyone under control which makes it a most pleasant activity to do while here. As Stairway to the Moon is on for three nights we will head to town beach tomorrow night to see that.

The sun sets very quickly in the west so by 7pm we were packing up and heading back to camp.

WEDNESDAY 10TH JUNE 2009 – BROOME W.A. DAY 93

I am booked to have a little more 'maintenance' done on my hair thismorning early so once that is done I go back to camp and pick up Nick to take the car to have a new windscreen fitted. We had a tiny little chip which is resulting in further cracks so will need to have it replaced before it gets too bad or rather before the police notice it. There are heavy fines here in the West for driving with damaged windscreens so we think its safer to get this job done.

We drop the car off and the young man drives us back to camp where we wait for it to be completed.

Nick notices we are still having trouble with our gas and this could be one of the reasons the fridge is not working to its full potential. We get the number of a refrigeration man here in Broome and phone him to tell him our problem. He has another job to see to here at the caravan park so will book us in to be seen tomorrow. It is highly likely we will need a new fridge but we are not jumping to conclusions just yet. We feel we have helped the Western Australian economy enough already.

2 hours later our car is finished and the young man brings it back to us. $390-00 later our windscreen is brand new and lovely and clear. We drive him back to his factory and we decide to check out the local golf club on the way home.

We remember we came here on our last trip as it has the most magnificent views over 'town beach' where it is the best vantage point to witness 'staircase to the stars'. The only problem is they won't be open tonight. We are astounded as the third night of the full moon is the most spectacular.

I decide to cook a roast lamb for dinner and we will just have to picture our lovely memories from last time when we were with Jane and Peter.

THURSDAY 11TH JUNE 2009 BROOME W.A. DAY 94

The mornings here are a little fresh but the days are warm with a temperature of around 27 degrees. I am taking Lucy to be shampooed and clipped today, try to get rid of some of the red dirt in her fir. Her appointment is 10am so I set the GPS (don't know what we would do without it sometimes) and it takes about 8 minutes to get to 'Groom in Broome'. Julie is the groomers name so after handing over Lucy, I go back to camp.

This is a good opportunity for me to clean out our fridge, wash the walls down and deodorize it before the refrigeration man comes to look at it this afternoon.

I pick Lucy up 2 hours later and she looks spic an span – not a sign of red dirt anywhere (I wonder how long that will last). We are sure she feels better for it.

By 4:30pm we have not had any sign of the refrigeration man so I phone him to be told 'a fridge of that description only lasts 8 – 9 years' – our fridge would be 10 to 12 years old so think we will have to buy a new one.

It will take weeks to get one up from Perth so we decide to buy a portable one for the time being.

FRIDAY 12TH JUNE 2009 – BROOME W.A. DAY 95

We do some housekeeping before heading into town to the camping shop. There are many different portable fridges at differing prices so we settle on one “a Waeco” the same one Alan and Jan brought a few weeks ago, (and here in Broome we paid much more than they did) but as I've had to throw out hundreds of dollars worth of food over the last few weeks we think it will be worth it.

After stocking up on some supplies we head back to camp to decide on where we will head next.

SATURDAY 13TH JUNE 2009 – BROOME W.A. TO FITZROY CROSSING – DAY 96

Before we hook up we decide we will have to drive into town to the Windscreen shop as we find a 4 inch crack across our windscreen. We are astounded as we haven't driven anywhere to do any damage. I am quite concerned as being Saturday morning and needing to check out of this park (as it is full) we need to organise this as soon as possible.

Our new fridge doesn't seem to be working properly also so frustrated as we are we need to get these two things looked at early as our next major stop is Kununurra over 600kms away.

We speak to the caravan park Manager, who is sympathetic to our problems and tells us 'if we need to stay overnight, despite them being full, he will find “somewhere” for us'!

The Industrial Area seems to all be closed on Saturday mornings so I find the Windscreen Shop Owners card and decide to phone him on his mobile. “Leave a Message”!!! I am not happy as we are really needing to move on. We then go back to the camping shop to ask them to look at our fridge. There is a problem with the lid so after some manipulation (the owner tells us it is a common fault of Waeco fridges) the fridge is working perfectly.

I get a phone call from Mick (the windescreen man). It is his day off and he is out fishing. I almost scream down the phone at him to ask him 'what do we do about the faulty windscreen'! He calms me down and assures me we can drive to Kununurra and he will arrange for a new one to be ordered and installed as soon as we arrive there in a few days time. They will bill him for the cost.

Satisfied, we head back to camp, hook up and are on our way.

It is such a long day of driving with ever changing scenery.

We arrive into Fitzroy Crossing and check into the Fitzroy Lodge Caravan Park. We stayed here on our last trip with our friends Arthur and Trish and their family and have some very happy memories of that time.

Our site is on the outskirts of the park and we are put next to the biggest rig we have ever seen. It is a triple decker motorhome with a triple decker 'mobile garage' attached.. We meet the couple who own it and they tell us that they work around this area, contracted to the government to work within the Aboriginal communities to do whatever is needed. Mostly, they say troubleshooting (which could mean anything)!!!!

I get organised inside while Nick chats to the man outside. After a while Nick comes in to tell me that the triple decker 'mobile garage' houses the man's light plane. Well, we have seen everything now. It is normal to see various sized trailers behind motorhomes but this really takes the cake as the biggest we have ever seen.

It is amazing what people won't leave home without!!!!!

SUNDAY 14TH JUNE 2009 – FITZROY CROSSING TO DOON DOON W.A. - DAY 97

As we have stayed attached for a 'quick getaway' it is easy to move this morning. We are away early as we have a very long day ahead of us. We plan to get to Kununurra some 600kms away.

After a very tiring day at around 4pm we come across a lovely caravan park attached to the Doon Doon Roadhouse. This looks rather new as there is new turf laid, lovely gardens and very very clean. We make a quick unanimous decision to stay here for the night and are lucky that we get the last site. It is easy again, as we decided not to unhook so its not long before we are enjoying the cold taste of a lovely beer and gin and tonic as we enjoy the view of the mountains in the background. This is on the outskirts of the Bungle Bungles so it was lovely to have a candlit BBQ underneath millions of stars on the clearest of nights.

MONDAY 15TH JUNE 2009 – DOON DOON TO WYNDHAM W.A. - DAY 98

We rise to a beautiful crisp winter morning here in the Kimberley's. The temperature is forecast to be in the high 20's but with no humidity it is very pleasant. As we stayed hooked up overnight it is easy to pack up and we are away, heading further east by 7:30am.

As we drive through the magnificent Cockburn Ranges it is evident why Baz Luhrman chose this location for his movie 'Australia'. The scenery is stunning and the ever changing colours of the mountains are breathtaking. With the rugged profile viewed from across the salt marsh it will be a memory etched in our minds for decades.

We find an old Boab tree where we stop to have a photo.

This is an area I have been looking forward to seeing immensely as we only stayed in Kununurra for a couple of days in 2005 on our way to Broome. There is so much to see here. We are not sure if we will go into the Bungle Bungles though as it is in a National Park and from what we can see from our journey so far we think it will be much the same.

Our mail has been sent to Kununurra and we will get our new windscreen sorted out there so we think we will head to Wyndham, about 100kms north east of Kununurra and spend a couple of nights there, mainly to stock up on supplies and do some washing.

Wyndham is Western Australia's most northerly town 3216kms north east of Perth. In 1885 Gold was discovered in Halls Creek and in March 1886 Wyndham was selected to service the goldfields.

With many cattle stations in this area it is also a busy port for the live export industry transporting stock to Asia and Europe.

We find a shady caravan park and set up camp. It is only 10:30am so it is a nice feeling being able to pick from an array of campsites and we pick a lovely grassed shady spot.

The local information Centre is a valuable source so we pay them a visit and emerge armed with many brochures.

I have been wanting to visit El Questro Station (where many of the scenes for the Australia movie were shot) but my enthusiasm is quickly let down when we are told that the road getting there is not favourable to caravans. I have heard so many conflicting opinions and are a bit confused. We will have to think carefully of how we will tackle this.

In the meantime I buy some lovely fresh salad rolls and we head up to the lookout for a picnic lunch.

Our first stop is Warriu Park Dreamtime Statues. These statues are a proud monument to the indigenous heritage of the region.

From here we drive to the Lookout. 350m above sea level, you get a fabulous view of where the 5 rivers meet (Forrest, Pentecost, Durack, King and Ord Rivers enter the Cambridge Gulf. We decide to come back here at sunset.

28th May to 5th June

THURSDAY 28TH MAY 2009 – CORAL BAY TO MIAREE POOL (FREE CAMP) - DAY 80

We pack up and leave Coral Bay early as we have to drive just on 500kms to get to our next stop of Karratha where we will stop for a night before heading north towards Broome.

On our way we need to stop for petrol at Nanutarra Roadhouse. We remember stopping here for petrol on our last trip and I took a photo of the “Dog's Dunny' and the petrol pump at an astounding $1.60 per litre. It is now $1.80 per litre but as they have a 'captive audience' out here you have no alternative and just have to pay it.

Nick was also feeling a little hungry and was ready to order a hamburger with the lot when we noticed the price - $17-99!!!!!! All of a sudden he was not that hungry and was content for me to make him a couple of ham salad sandwiches (at less than a quarter the price).

The rest of our journey was uneventful although we noticed how prevalent the 'mine' cars and temporary communities with demountable accommodation were evident far more than when we were here back in 2005. Something else that was so prevalent then and we had forgotten about is the red red dirt here. It gets into everything. Last time we spent days getting it out of the car and the van so I think it will be the same this time. We washed the kitchen floor this morning and within 15 minutes there were red dirt marks again. It would be a nightmare for the people who live here.

By 5pm we were about 35kms from Karratha and we came across this lovely camp area by a freshwater pool – Miaree Pool. It was only 1km on a dirt road off the highway so we decided to stay overnight here. There were only 3 other caravanners and campers so we felt safe.

We found a lovely spot overlooking the pool and began to set up even though leaving the van hooked up. When we turned on the (battery) light it was very very faint. We couldn't believe it as we had only just put in a new battery – what could be the problem.

I cooked a Thai Red Chicken and rice dinner on our gas stove we ate outside by candlelight under the clearest of clear skies so all was not lost. We would have to get the battery looked at in Karratha!!!!

FRIDAY 29TH MAY 2009 – MI AREE POOL(KARRATHA) TO POINT SAMSON W.A. - DAY 81

After a very peaceful and restful night (were were in bed and asleep by 8:30pm) we woke very early to the sound of the 'morning bush birds' and a lovely sunrise over the red hills. With not much packing up to do we were on the road by 7am and as we were heading into town we decided to phone Jan and Alan to perhaps meet us for breakfast.

As we drove into Karratha it was such a familiar sight and the site of many landmarks came flooding back.

It is such a busy town with the main industry being the LNG Pipeline and Rio Tinto Mining Operations among other various mines and as this was to be a long weekend the town was buzzing.

We met Jan and Alan at the local shopping centre where we had coffee and they filled us in on what they had been up to and we did the same. They, like us had experienced some problems, ie broken windshield and faulty fridge which they were waiting to get 'the part' sent from Perth. They suggested to us that we should head out to Point Samson for the long weekend and that they would meet us there tomorrow. It sounded like a great idea but first we needed our battery checked before we could do anything.

Nick and Alan took off to do that while Jan and I did some much needed retail therapy. We both booked in to have our hair coloured and styled together and this also gave us an opportunity of doing some 'girl catch up' which is such a nice change!

The problem with our battery was sorted out – it wasn't the actual battery but the electrical connections some of which had snapped off. So the Auto Electrician took it all to pieces, cleaned it all and reattached new leads to each point – a job that took 2 hours and $160-00 later. It was the problem the whole time and not the battery!!!!!! Just have to put it down to another financial injection for the WA economy!!

After I had my hair done I brought some supplies, met Nick and headed the 50kms out to Point Samson.

There is a lovely new caravan park opened up there last year called “the Cove” so we checked in, found a lovely spot with a distant view of the ocean and hoped now that ALL our problems were behind us. We were happy to be staying at this lovely little seaside village for the next four nights.

SATURDAY 30TH MAY 2009 – POINT SAMSON W.A. - DAY 82

The wind has come up during the early hours of the morning so hopefully it won't cause too much havoc here. To be on the safe side Nick takes the awning down – we don't want to take any chances.

After a walk with Lucy to the beach nearby we have croissants and coffee for breakfast. With the wind as it is it is a great opportunity to do our washing (get some of this red dirt out) so I do it early. Nick finds there is a leak from our stored water container into the boot of the car so that is a great opportunity for him to clean the car. We are both busy but contented. The white fur on Lucy is beginning to turn red (her version of a fake tan I think) but we decide it is no use in bathing her as she will only get redder. She will have to wait until we leave this area which, as we know how much she hates being bathed, she won't be disappointed.

About midday Jan and Alan pull into the caravan park and set up camp. They tell us their fridge is still not fixed as 'the part' should arrive in Karratha on Tuesday. I will cook a roast lamb dinner tomorrow night for us all – but tonight we will mee t them for drinks at 5pm.

SUNDAY 31ST MAY 2009 – POINT SAMSON W.A. - DAY 83

We get a phone call from our son Stuart and he updates us on the progress of the kids which we love to hear. He and Anita, Otto and Milla are all well and happy and the kids are progressing well at school and pre-school. They may meet us in Port Douglas for a week or two in the July School Holidays which would be fantastic.

Alan and Nick decide to have a bike ride this morning and leave Jan and I to potter around our camps.

This afternoon, Jan, Alan and Nick decide to drive to Cossack. I remember going there back in 2005 so I felt I could catch up on a few things around camp while they are away. Cossack is a historical town built between 1870 and 1898 and is now a ghost town. It is interesting when we compare these dates with the date (1850) that our little cottage back in Randwick was built and in comparison these little town really are so young!

Many of the old buildings have been restored including the general store, post office and courthouse which now house galleries and museums. When they return we go down to Honeymoon Cove for a swim in the ocean. Not very clear but the water temperature warm and refreshing.

After sunset and our 5 o'clock drinks we enjoy our baked lamb dinner under the stars. The night sky is so clear.

MONDAY 1ST JUNE 2009 – POINT SAMSON W.A. DAY 84

The weather this morning is looking very suspect with rain clouds and rain forecast. It is our friend (in NZ) Jane's birthday so we make a phone call. She sounds, as usual, happy and cheerful and tells us she is having a lovely day despite her underlying problems. We will have a drink for her at our 5 o'clock get together tonight!

We spend the morning around camp before meeting Jan and Alan at 12 midday to take the short walk to the Tavern. It is a public holiday here and when we arrive the same idea is shared by many others out to enjoy a lazy Sunday of a long weekend.

We find a table on the balcony, overlooking the ocean where we enjoy a delicious lunch. The rain teams down and it is interesting to make conversation with some of the locals, mostly miners and their families, who have the same idea.

After lunch we make plans to pack up in readiness for our departure tomorrow. While doing this we discover our fridge is still not working efficiently. We turn the dial to 'gas' instead of electricity and hopefully this will keep our food cold. We will have to pay a visit to the refrigeration man in Karratha tomorrow after we leave here.

TUESDAY 2ND JUNE 2009 – POINT SAMSON TO POINT SAMSON W.A. - DAY 85

We are so organised our pack up and check out is uneventful except for a noise when putting on our brakes. There must be some dirt in them which is making them squeal – a dreadful noise that , we are sure, will fix itself as we drive on.

Karratha is about 50kms back so we plan to meet Jan and Alan at the refrigeration place, where they are hopefully, picking up their part for their portable fridge.

We speak to the girl in the office who advises us to unhook the van and leave it with them for the day, which we do. The coffee shop in town is familiar to us so we head to there and wait, and wait and wait.

By 11am we still have not had a phone call from Jason who is fixing our fridge so we phone him. He is still 'looking' at it and will call us as soon as the diagnosis is known. We wait!!!! and wait!!!! and wait!!!!

At 2pm we drive to the Industrial area, speak to Jason who says we have a problem with the fridge exhaust so he puts in a new one and tells us we need a new catch. He will try to phone around to find one and have it sent to Broome where we can have it put on. We are not keen to spend a night here and as Jan and Alan, who HAVE to stay until tomorrow (because their 'part' has not arrived) have checked out the caravan park here – said it was so disgusting they wouldn't let their dogs stay there – I decide to phone the Point Samson Caravan Park back and ask that they have a site ready for us – we will be there by 6pm.

Jason tells us there is nowhere in Australia that supplies the 'catch' for our fridge that we need and the best bet is to use an esky with ice and have a 'catch' made when we are in Broome. He charges us $50-00 which is a lot less than what we thought, so we hook up and drive back to Point Samson.

WEDNESDAY 3RD JUNE 2009 – POINT SAMSON TO PARDOO STATION W.A. DAY 86

We 'kick' our fridge closed which seems to work, don't need to hook up as we didn't unhook when we arrived and very early we get going on our way. There are no towns between here and Broome only roadhouses. I am not keen to stay at them and would prefer cattle stations so we choose Pardoo and drive the 300kms stopping at the roadhouses only to replenish our fuel.

Pardoo Station is a cattle station with campground attached. We pull in and stay hooked up ready for our departure in the morning.

About 5pm we look up to see Jan and Alan arriving. They eventually received their 'part' and decided to drive on and stay here. They set up camp next to us and it was fun to have 5 o'clock drinks with them and have a wager of a case of 'Pure Blonde' on the State of Origin this evening.

As the night progressed and results came in our case of Pure Blonde was not looking very healthy. (We drank a couple of 3 while listening to the game)!!!

NSW lost. We will have to buy a case for Alan and Jan and hopefully give to them in Broome next week.

The rain came down heavily during the night but it was nice to hear the sound on the roof and sleep in the cool.

THURSDAY 4TH JUNE 2009 – PARDOO STATION TO BARN HILL STATION W.A. DAY 87

During the night it had poured with rain and we are not looking forward to the prospect of driving the 13km dirt road back to the highway. I would not be surprised if Nick says we will wait to see what happens but as this gesture is not forthcoming we make plans to pack up. As we didn't unhitch it has made it much easier and as the rain pelts down our awning is the last thing to be put away.

With drought covering so much of this area and Australia in general it is almost a crime to think we don't want it to rain. The red dirt here is continuous, everywhere we look it is red. Our white car and caravan are now a paler shade of red. It is not worth cleaning anything until we get to Broome. “Red” is on everything!

The dirt road is not too bad despite the rain and as it is quite a popular camp spot the owners of the station maintain it so that it is not too hard on vehicles.

We drive for about 3 hours until we come to a sign that says “Barn Hill Station”. This is where we are booked to camp for the next 4 nights. During our travels in 2005 many people we spoke to asked if we had stayed here at Barn Hill and we somehow missed it. It has become a very popular spot and we were told not to miss it this time.

We arrive at the closed gate at the entrance to the station and 'another dirt road'! 9Kms off the highway we come to what seems like an 'oasis in the desert'. We check in and are shown a spot amongst the trees where we can hear the ocean. It is quite crowded but comfortable.

Shortly after arriving Jan and Alan turn up and by co-incidence their friends from Kingscliff, Fay and Jeff Lennon are camped right behind us together with their friends from Melbourne, Lorraine and Barry. They invite us over for 5 o'clock drinks but we want to go for a swim and walk on the beach first.

It is a very short distance we walk to the; beach. The view is amazing with the sun shining over the crystal clear ocean. We let Lucy off her lead and she is in heaven. Running and playing in the sand. She skims the rock pools and investigates the rocky caves and sand dunes. She is so happy and enjoys running and playing with us.

We venture into the water for a swim and we are surprised at how Lucy runs in and jumps over the waves with us. We always thought she didn't like the ocean but today it is different. After an hour and a half she is exhausted and reluctantly we make our way back to camp.

We join Jeff, Fay, Jan and Alan and Lorraine and Barry for 5 o'clock drinks and it is interesting to get information on other camping experiences from other travellers perspective. They have given us some good tips which we will note.

I cook a BBQ which we have outside under the stars in this very lovely quiet cattle station.


FRIDAY 5TH JUNE 2009 – BARN HILL STATION W.A. DAY 88

We wake up this morning to the sun streaming through our windows and the birds singing. It is a lovely fresh clear morning here on the station and I decide early to put a load of washing on. As many campers here stay for 2 – 3 months at a time they have a roster system for the 2 washing machines. I put my name down for 7:30am as we haven't washed for about a week and we are running out of clean clothes.
Jan and Alan turn up as they are now heading up north to Broome and onto Cape Leveque 200kms north up to the Bucaneer Archapelago. We went up into this area also in 2005. It was my favourite place in all of Australia, very rugged but very beautiful. Now, after seeing Esperance and Cape Le Grande National Park, south of Western Australia this area is definitely on par with that.

After a 'photo shoot' for the blog with Jeff and Fay they bid their farewells and not sure where we will meet them next they are off.

We have breakfast as we listen to the news and I am overcome with sadness as I listen to details of the passing of one of my favourite public identities, Professor Chris O'Brien. He finally succumbed to the disease that he treated so many patients with. It was only at Christmas time I read his very interesting book 'Never Say Die'. His passing will not only be a huge loss to the Medical Profession but also to the Nation, many who grew to love and respect him as a compassionate and giving human being. Kevin Rudd has just announced a State Funeral has been offered to the family to which they have accepted. A very fitting gesture to a very deserving Australian. I think his vision and inspiration will be a huge advantage to us all in years to come with the development and building of the new Cancer Facility at Royal Prince Alfred Hospital in Sydney. It is just a shame he won't be here to see its completion in 2012.

Nick decides he will spend the morning on the beach where he will take Lucy so that she can swim and run as she did yesterday and so enjoyed. I am keen to update this blog and read one of my many books or perhaps watch a movie in these idyllic surrounds.

We again join Jeff and Fay, Barry and Lorraine at 5pm for drinks. As clouds have set in sunset will not be very spectacular however, we will wait and see what tomorrow is like.