TUESDAY 14th APRIL 2009 – HYDEN TO ALBANY W.A. - DAY 36
We pack up and get away early as we have a long drive ahead of us to Albany. We back track from Wave Rock (5 kms) to Hyden where we fill up with petrol and hot coffee before we notice across the street some unusual looking lifesize metal figures.
We stop and on closer investigation notice these rusty old objects are 'Junk Art' and on reading the descriptions they started with a local farmer playing in his shed, turning his old junk into 'junk art'. This became a competition between the farmers so now there are approximately 20 displays. We found some of them very amusing and extremely clever. It amazed us of the talent some people have.
From here we drive west for a while before turning south towards Albany on the coast. We stop at a very quaint little town called Lake Grace which is a major grain growing region for this state producing wheat, canola, oats, barley, lupins and legumes. And as we drive we can't help but notice the sandy plains which are beginning to be transformed into a sea of colour for, although a little early, the wildflower season.
As we are driving through town, we notice there is a Mission Hospital Museum here which we think might be of interest. It is adjoining the local Hospital so we drive into the Accident and Emergency Parking area (quite an unusual sight for this sleepy little town as we are towing our 16' caravan). We find a safe and out of the way area to park and head towards the entrance of the old hospital. It is all closed up so we walk across the lawn to the 'nurses tearoom'. It is full of activity and chatter with morning tea in full swing. If you have ever worked in a hospital, you will know what I am talking about as sometimes, this is the busiest and liveliest place to be. We ask the nurses if we can enter the museum and we are told that we need to phone a number on the door as it is not manned regularly. I guess typical of the country.
The nurses on duty were delightful and so helpful but we weren't prepared to wait and lose time so we decided to push on and continue our journey.
It was on this drive south we started to notice the names of the towns, mostly ending in “UP”! We decided to make a note of them as we were driving through them ie Pingrup, Gnowangerup, Ongerup, Jerramungup, Kojonup, arriving into Albany at around 4pm.
We found a nice quiet caravan park about 4kms out of town at Emu Bay and a lovely site with a view of the beach and while Nick set up camp I went into town to buy some supplies for the next couple of days.
As I was driving through the roundabout Jan was just crossing the road in front of me. I park the car and after Alan also finding us we stop for a chat. They arrived here yesterday and are staying at the caravan park next to ours. We don't make any definite arrangement to catch up as they are going to be playing a bit of golf but we are in phone contact.
I buy the few things we need and then head back to camp. Lucy has made friends with a gorgeous black afghan named Lara who is staying in the tent next to ours. They have a lovely time romping around and playing with each other.
The wind is beginning to come up so we cook dinner, batten down the hatches and after watching a little bit of TV we are off to bed.
WEDNESDAY 15TH APRIL 2009 – ALBANY W.A. - DAY 37
We wake up today to a beautiful day. Sun is shining and temp is forecast to be around 22 – 24 degrees. A perfect autumn day here in the west.
We pack a picnic lunch of sandwiches and fruit and with Lucy take a drive around the coast (the Tourist Drive) of Albany. It is so scenic and we are getting so used to each beach being nicer than the last one. With a swim here and a swim there the fear of a shark does not even enter our thoughts despite there being many shark attacks here in the west over the years.
West Cape Howe National Park is stunning and as we were able to leave Lucy in the car for a little while it gave us the opportunity of sightseeing on foot. We then drove around to Two People's Bay and onto the yacht club where there were many interesting boats moored.
We found a lovely spot in a park on the bay where we had lunch and thought it was the best of year to be here, not too hot which would bring the crowds.
On our way back to camp we passed the 'Amity' a full scale replica of the brig that brought Albany's first settlers from Sydney in 1826 and Dog Rock which is a granite outcrop resembling the head of an enormous labrador not to be missed if you are ever this way.
Once back at camp I had a test message from Jan to say she had just walked 40kms (20kms there and 20kms back) of the Bibbulum Track. She must be mad!!! This track was opened in September 1998, the track stretches 964kms from Albany in the south to Kalamunda in the Perth hills. It is now considered one of the world's great long distance walking trails which provides spectacular coastal and forest views.
I phoned her to get the low down on her adventure and it would certainly make good reading as she encountered exhaustion, cramp, thirst and not to mention the snake! Despite all this the scenery was breathtaking, the wildflowers a sea of colour and view magnificant. Would she do it again.......................watch this space!!!!
Terry McGuinness perhaps the Bibbulum Track could be on the agenda for a future walk for the Maroubra Walkers!
THURSDAY 16TH APRIL 2009 – ALBANY W.A. - DAY 38
I have a few things to do today so I leave Nick to have a swim while I go into town. Albany is a lovely busy town with strip shopping which I like so I made the most of 'my time' and walked up and down heach side of the street (I am convinced this is a 'form of' exercise so I don't feel to guilty). I am keen to work on my patchwork quilt so I go into the local craft shop to buy a few more materials from a bigger variety. This should keep me going for a while.
Nick mentions it might be nice to drive around to the Emu Bay Marina for a look and maybe lunch. We find many lovely marine craft tied up at the moorings, fisherman on the jetty and people out just enjoying the sunshine.
We find a lovely little shop selling cooked seafood so we place an order and share a plate of fish, chips and squid. It is so fresh and delicious this will be our main meal for the day and we enjoy this as we watch a group of pelicans waiting for 2 local fishermen, who are scaling and filletting their catch to throw to these beautiful graceful birds the remnants of what is left behind. It is fascinating so after a few photos we head back to camp.
I enjoy an afternoon of sewing while Nick reads. Jan calls by to invite us for drinks thisevening. This will be a good opportunity of giving her, her birthday present as she celebrates her birthday the same day as Nick on 29th April, we are not sure we will be in the same place at that time as we are keen to take our time a bit and to see friends on our way up the WA coast. We arrange to be at their camp at 5pm.
We arrive armed with wine and gifts and enjoy a pleasant evening chatting and catching up. Our gift to Jan is a tri-pod for her camera as we have found it amusing watching her try to balance her camera on tree stumps, car bonnets, wooden fences etc to get that perfect shot of her and Alan together. She seems happy with her gift and Alan confesses at least now their photos will not be so lopsided.
Lucy gives her a gift of 'leopard skin rubber gloves and dish tickler (a little like the d....... tickler we saw at the brothel in Kalgoorlie – maybe not quite as soft though)!!!!!
Jan and Alan's gift to Nick are chocks to put behind and in front of the caravan wheels. Nick has been using 2 ½ broken bricks and it is quite a site as we pull up alongside other vans that have all the mod cons and up to date aparatus on their vans. No ours might not stand out so much.
We have a lovely night, say our goodbyes and 'see you on the road somewhere' and we are off and back at camp. They are leaving tomorrow as well and will head towards Margaret River.
FRIDAY 17TH APRIL 2009 – ALBANY TO MANJIMUP W.A. - DAY 39
We leave Albany today and will head across to Denmark only 50kms away. We have lovely friends, Arthur and Trish Kennedy whom we met in Townsville on our 2005 trip around OZ and with our other friends Peter and Jane from New Zealand had great fun. Arthur and Trish spend their days travelling having sold their home in NSW and buying a van a few years ago they have seen most of Australia. They love Denmark here in W.A. and have told us not to miss it.
After a few phone calls to them (they are visiting their daughter and grand-daughter in Brisbane until August) and unable to talk them into meeting us down here we made notes of all their recommended 'things to see'.
By the time we got to Denmark (known to Aborigines as Kurrabup – another 'up' word) we felt we hadn't really driven far enough so would have a quick look around and then head across towards the west coast.
Denmark is home to the famous Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk, a unique walkway which rises up to 40m above the forest floor. You can view the magnificent tingle forest canopy to get a different perspective on the shapes and movement of the forest.
We drive down further on and stop at a small service station to fill up and have lunch. We have been recommended to come here for the freshest Marron you would ever taste. Marron is a very small crayfish and when cooked has the sweetest tasting flesh. They possibly resemble our Balmain Bugs or Moreton Bay Bugs to taste and size but only in the shape of a very baby lobster.
We order 6 to share with salad. We were not disappointed as they were (tiny) but delicious nevertheless – washed down with a lovely cold glass of Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc – we were amazed that this unassuming little petrol stop would serve the most delicious food.
After lunch we keep driving up through Pemberton as we had been told to visit Manjimup. We pass magnificent karri forests and rich farmlands but this area is also the centre of a thriving fruit and vegetable industry. It is well known for its apples and is the birthplace of the delicious Pink Lady Apple (my favourite).
We see signs to Fonty's Pool Caravan Park just off the highway so as its getting late we go to investigate. We drive down a dirt road and the most beautiful scene of lovely grounds and a beautiful lake come into view. The autumn leaves are beginning to fall off the trees and it is a picture site.
As they are pet friendly we decide this is where we will camp for the night and after checking in we are directed to a lovely campsite. There are not many caravans here and it is dotted with campers – a few children around very quiet and peaceful
We back onto a lovely green lush paddock where there are beautiful black healthy cows grazing. Our campsite is perfect and before long its 5 o'clock and we are sipping another lovely glass of Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon. This is really the life!!!
We notice a man driving around in his ute selling buckets of firewood. We ask him how much and are permitted to have our own fire! We pay $10-00 for wood that will last us a while and Nick – who is becoming expert – gets out our 'Gerilla' and proceeds to stoke and get the loveliest of fires happening.
I have some local steak so we decide to cook it over the fire, outside to have with salad. The night is clear and the stars are shining. This is a really beautiful place.
SATURDAY 18TH APRIL 2009 – MANJIMUP TO FLINDER'S BAY, AUGUSTA – DAY 40
We plan to drive to Augusta today rather than Margaret River. There is a Wine Festival on over the weekend and we feel it will be very busy with tourists etc. A concert is planned for one of the vineyards with Trumpeter James Morrison and Blues Singer Denni Hines. We have seen James Morrison perform before and I must say I am not a huge fan of the trumpet. I know he is very talented and with the enhancement of Denni Hines voice I'm sure it would be enjoyable however, as I am not a great fan and I don't find the prospect of encountering large crowds we are happy to stay away from that area, for the weekend at least. I think we will plan to spend a day there when it is not quite so busy.
Our drive to August is much the same as it has been though we are amazed at the site of the many apple orchards with the most enticing looking fruit just sitting on the ground under the trees. We decide to stop on the roadside nearby for a photo and to Nick's horror I go and pick 3 of the most delicious, colourful rosy Pink Lady Apples off the tree. He is sure we will be arrested for stealing – what out here!!!!
On his boosting we make a quick getaway, sure we are being followed, and make our way back to the main highway leadiding to Albany.
We arrive at around 3:30pm, drive through town and out to the beach. The first caravan park we see says 'No Dogs' so we drive on and hope there is another caravan park further on. To our delight there is a pet friendly park and we pull up and both go to check in.
We are going to wait here until Chelsea sends our mail to us from Sydney and as it's Sunday she won't be able to do this until Monday or Tuesday. Therefore, we won't get it until later in the week which brings us to another public holiday weekend (Anzac Day) so we decide to stay here until next Monday (27th April). It is a long time but we need to get our mail and with the fear of not getting accommodation over the long weekend we decide to stick with this option.
We pick a site and set up camp before we take the short drive into Flinders Bay to buy fish for tea.
We order and I pay while Nick waits in the car. I am astounded. The price for 2 tiny pieces of grilled fish, a handful of chips, and a hamburger plus 2 drinks is $36-00. I am so shocked I and still trying to add it all up that I hand over the money, get my numbered ticket and wait. By the time I pick up the order and take it to the car I am still in shock as I tell Nick the price.
We make a decision that no matter how hungry we are we will never never eat from this little cafe again. We are astounded next day when we drive past and it is crowded with tourists!!!!
I get a message via email from a lovely young couple we met in Fiji a couple of years ago. Elizabeth and Buz are originally from New Zealand and have now settled in W.A. They know we are travelling and are keen to see us so I email them to say we will be in Rockingham not far from where they live, early next week. I hear back from them to say they would like to have dinner with us which we arrange for Tuesday evening (next) at the Stinking Pig Pub – a very popular and well known pub in W.A we believe. We will be in contact with them though closer to the time.
SUNDAY 19TH APRIL 2009 – FLINDER'S BAY, AUGUSTA – DAY 41
The view from this caravan park is idyllic with a picturesque bay. The weather is still quite warm so we decide to go for a swim thismorning. I'd say the water temperature is about 20 degrees (Nick who always tries to convince me it is warmer than what it is) tells me it is about 23. Of course I don't believe him and as usual 'take my time' to get wet. Once in though it is gorgeous and as he swims laps I am happy to frolic in the waves that are gently rolling onto the beach.
After hot showers we decide to take a drive to 'have a look around'.
We drive through Augusta which is a lovely quiet little town overlooking the Blackwood River and waters of Flinder's Bay. As we drive by the ocean towards Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse the cliffs are rugged and rocky and once the lighthouse comes into view it reminded both Nick and I of the scene we saw as we sailed through the British Isles and past the water logged villages of Scotland with their white limestoned cottages (resembling the Keepers Cottage). Despite being quite a 'grey day' it was picturesque nevertheless. We took many photos and loved the smell of the ocean and wind on our face. It was a bit difficult to see this area as we had Lucy with us so decided we would come back and explore in depth as there was much to see.
We came back to camp and opened another bottle of this lovely Margaret River wine to have with dinner.
TV coverage here is very poor, in fact, non existent so I find our portable DVD player and find a movie for us both to watch. We have had this little player since we travelled the first time and I think with all the use and just 'age' it beginning to give up the ghost. We are having trouble trying to put together the pieces of the movie that are being skipped so after some perseverance we decide to abandon that idea, give it a decent burial and will hopefully purchase a new one tomorrow. We read our books instead.
MONDAY 20TH APRIL 2009 – FLINDER'S BAY, AUGUSTA W.A. - DAY 42
We wake up to a glorious morning, a little cool but pleasant. I suggest to Nick that it might be nice to drive to Margaret River. He is a little reluctant as he says we are heading that way any way when we leave here so it might be best to do that on the way. I am not keen as it is much easier sightseeing when not towing the van. He finally agrees and we decide to leave Lucy on her leash outside the van today. It is quite pleasant and not too warm for her so I think it best she be outside. Always our fear is that she will fret and bark as she is now so used to being with us. We take the risk, give her plenty of water and some dry food, her toys and her daybed and off we go.
It is 30kms drive along the Bussell Highway and we pass many farms and a few wineries along the way.
We notice a signe that says “Watershed Winery”. This is a winery recommended to us by Arthur and Trish so we make a quick detour and drive in the lovely gates. The Cellar Door is a stunning modern building with beautifully groomed girls offering wine to tasters. We decide to try some.
The problem with a lot of the wines you taste at Cellar Doors is that the wines are too new – usually need to be 'put down' and they are quite expensive anyway compared to the local bottle shops.
After a tasting of a white (for Nick) and a red (for me) we take a few photos of the beautiful grounds and make our way to the town.
Margaret River township has not changed from when we were here as a detour at a Headmasters Conference 7 years ago. It is very busy with boutique shops, cafe's, specialty food shops, kitchen shops and bookshops along the sidewalk. We decide to take it all in and walk up one side to the top of the street then walk back to the car on the other side. We find a nice coffee shop and then as we need to replace our ancient portable DVD player I try to find an electrical shop. No luck. I am told though at the local Target shop (yes they have Target in between all these cute little designer shops) that there is a Betta Electrical Shop a few streets away on the way out of town.
We find the shop easily and find there are more 'practical' shops in this area. I purchase a little Portable Panasonic DVD player and notice across the road a lovely market selling fresh fruit and vegetables. Nick waits in the car while I make some purchases before heading back to Flinder's Bay.
On our way home we see a sign that says to Leeuwin Wines and Voyager. Another two wineries recommended to us so we take a turn and drive the dusty road with many vineyards along each side of the road.
We take a turn to the left and drive up to the most stunning set of iron and limestone gates with the name “VOYAGER ESTATE”, and beyond that is a very long gravel driveway and the biggest union jack flag I have ever seen. I must take a photo!!
Beneath this flag are the most beautifully manicured gardens and grounds I have ever seen. Simply stunning.
Voyager Estate has its origins under the label of 'Freycinet” which was started by Peter & Jennifer Gherardi in 1978. A first generation Italian-Australian, Peter had been brought up surrounded by wine and winemaking which he then complemented with a Wine Science degree.
Although the location fell within the confines of his professors study, neither the study or the degree could prepare him for the enormous quantity of rocks resting beneath the surface at Freycinet. They were literally in the way of any vineyard development.
With all the work done by Peter, Jennifer and his extended family, they worked tirelessly removing the rocks by hand before they could plant their first vine.
In 1991 the vineyard was sold to a 4th generation Australian Michael Wright who had Scottish farming ancestors and with an inherited love of agriculture and his quest to diversify led him to the wine industry.
Over the next 7 years Michael conducted major improvements to the property and its infrastructure, including a name change to 'Voyager Estate' and, most significantly, the creation of the Cape Dutch-style gardens and cellar door.
After spending much time walking through the gardens and taking many photos we decide to do what we came here for and that is 'to taste some wine'.
They have 2 types of wines here to taste. The first lot are grown and developed to 'drink now' and the second lot are called 'Saves' – which is self explanatory. We purchased a couple to 'drink now' as with limited room in the van and our eagerness to drink fine wine most days we did not take the “saves” option.
By this time we felt we needed to get back to camp and to Lucy as we thought if she was barking and a nuisance we may be evicted and needed time to find another camp!!! To our delight she was sitting happily as we left her and by speaking to a couple of 'our neighbours' in the park there was not a sound out of her the whole time. I promised her a fresh chicken wing for being so good!
After a long day we opened one of the bottles of Voyager Estate, Sauvignon Blanc and enjoyed a glass (or two) before (and during) dinner. It was a lovely way to finish off another perfect day.
TUESDAY 21ST APRIL 2009 – FLINDERS BAY, AUGUSTA W.A. - DAY 43
It is a little windy today and as Nick is wanting a swim I decide to do some washing and baking and plan to go out to see the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse in the afternoon.
By the time Nick returns from his swim I am taking freshly baked scones out of my little oven and they smell delicious. Fresh scones with Margaret River Strawberry and Champagne jam and fresh cream.
We leave Lucy inside the van with her daybed and toys and head to the Lighthouse. Nick is keen to do a 'tour' but I decline the 176 steps up to the top of this limestone lighthhouse. I take his word that the view is 'sensational. I am happy to wander around the cliff face, taking photos and reading about the history of this very unique place.
Known for its treacherous reefs, rocks and weather, Cape Leeuwin is regarded by mariners as one of the most dangerous coastlines in the world.
Cape Leeuwin marks the most south westerly point of Australia where Matthew Flinders began mapping the Australian coastline in 1801.
The Lightouse was built in 1895 to safely guide ships travelling to Australia's eastern ports. By 1896 the lighthouse was fully operational and today it still features the original lens that shines a light with the intensity of a million candles.
By the time Nick returns, the weather is turning nasty and windy and cold so he finds me sitting in the glass walled cafe having hot coffee. We order a ploughman's lunch to share while enjoying the rugged beauty in the comfort of the coffee room.
We had back to camp, refilling our empty gas bottle on the way and buying some fresh vegetables which I will cook up for dinner.
We watch a couple of movies on our portable DVD player before heading to bed.
WEDNESDAY 22nd APRIL 2009 – FLINDER'S BAY, AUGUSTA. W.A. - DAY 44
About 2am we woke to the sound of our awning outside blowing against the van. We decided to wait to see if it was just a freak gust of wind or if it was 'setting in'. About an hour later we decided it was time to pack up the awning as with the wind getting stronger we were afraid it might do some damage.
Lucy and I stayed tucked up in bed while Nick put the awning away and secured everything tightly under the van (ie tables, chairs, etc). He is much better at doing these things himself and we have an agreement I do the cooking and 'inside stuff' while he does the 'outside' stuff. This seems to work for us and certainly saves any disagreements which is important.
We make sure everything is secure and before long we are back in our warm snug cosy cave drifting off to sleep.
By morning (we wake up late at 8:00am) there is still wind blowing, its raining and cold. I get out my tracksuit and ugg boots which I haven't needed up until now.
I have a missed call on my mobile from Ben Brown. He is the son of our friends' Peter and Debbie from Banora Point near the Gold Coast. Ben is living in Scarborough, Perth with his girlfriend Erin and, as he heard we were in town, is keen to catch up with us while we are here. I phone him back and we have a lovely chat. Ben is a very close friend also of my son Mitchell and they keep in contact often after meeting when they were tiny little babies in navy blue nappies 26 years ago.
After leaving school, Ben has spent the last 9 years travelling and working his way throughout Australia and the world and his girlfriend (or lifelong partner) Erin who is also originally from the Gold Coast is finding that, all her friends are getting married and having babies and she is a little homesick. Ben has decided, understandingly but reluctantly to go back home with her and he feels the time has come to finally 'settle down' !!!!
As our next stopover will be in Rockingham about 40 minutes away from where he lives in Scarborough so we arrange that he will visit us there next week.
I do my 'housework' inside while Nick takes Lucy for a long walk on the beach. She is becoming gamer as she loves running into the waves (as long as they are about 8 inches high and already broken). He brings her back salty and a little wet but as its a bit windy and cold we decide not to bath her today. We will have to be firm with her that she doesn't get up onto our bed as she so often loves to do!
It is such an awful day, windy, overcast and cold we decide to stay around camp and Nick reads while I update my blog. I am finding it a bit of a challenge as the days seem to go so fast, if I don't update it every second or third day I find it difficult to remember everything we did that day. I have asked Nick to remind me to update it often.!
We decide to drive into town to the the local bakery to buy some fresh crusty bread to have with our vegetable/pumpkins soup for lunch. It's definitely that sort of weather. We spend the afternoon doing crosswords, catching up on emails, and reading (and as I sit here and listen to the gentle snoring of my travelling companion) and hoping our night ahead will be calmer than the last.
THURSDAY 23RD APRIL 2009 – FLINDER'S BAY, AUGUSTA W.A. - DAY 45
The weather has turned really nasty with intermittent showers, windy and overcast and we have seen everything here that we wanted to see so we can either spend the day around camp reading or watching videos or I suggest that we drive up to Yallingup and Busselton about 90kms away and that we take the Caves Road which takes us through the Margaret River Wine Region.
As I am keen to see Laurance Winery the one our friends Arthur and Trish said was not to be missed. We decide to take the second option despite the long drive it will mean we won't have to go through this area when we leave here on Monday on our way to Rockingham.
Nick takes Lucy for a long walk as I get ready and tidy up.
About 40 minutes later he arrives back at camp visibly shaken. He tells me that when he let Lucy off her lead to have a run she was fine on the beach but once they got more into the bush she took off (obviously after something) in very thick scrub. It was too dense for him to follow her and after all efforts calling her she did not appear. He became frantic as this area is known for snakes and as she normally comes when called (eventually) she did not appear and the silence he said was deafening.
15 minutes he said went by before she finally emerged. In his final relief though, he told me his greatest fear was not so much that she was lost but the reaction from me when telling me!!! (I didn't realise he was so scared of me)!!!!! Anyway, from now on he will keep a tighter rein on her if they go walking in the bush. I told him I would never have gone into the bush anyway and its safer to stick to the beach.
We pack into the car (the 3 of us) and drive the coast road which is a lot quieter and more bushier than the busier Bussell Highway.
Hamelin Bay and Gracetown are on the coast from the beautiful Fitzgerald River National Park . There are some fantastic spots for fishing and swimming and we were fascinated as we watched many of the passionate local wetsuited surfers paddling such a long way out to catch that elusive perfect wave and can understand why this WA Coast is such a popular spot.
We were in this area seven years ago and couldn't help but notice the development as far as houses and resorts which now dot the hillside overlooking the ocean. It is such a shame but as they say 'that is progress'!!!!
We pushed on further north where we passed many of the wineries, Gralyn, Evans & Tate, Vasse Felix, Wildwood, Driftwood and Hunt's Foxhaven Estate just to name a few.
The grounds of most of these wineries are stunning and they seem to put so much effort in the visual effect surrounding these estates. In other words its as if you are looking through a 'Living Window'.
We stopped at Laurance Winery and again, the surrounds did not disappoint. At the entrance there is a beautiful lake with manicured lawns and colourful gardens surrounding it. In the lake there is a huge statue rising out of the water. It is of a female high diver all in gold and the water fall is protruding from underneath her. A sight not to be missed.
Lucy was to stay in the car while we decided to go in, try some wine and have lunch. As it was a little chilly the open fire place was very inviting so we order our lunch and sat down to taste some wines together with local olive oil, crusty bread and Margaret River olives. Delicious!
I cannot help but to mention the bathroom in this establishment. It was the most stunning one I had ever seen. Each room huge (as big as our caravan) with a beautiful oak vanity, white italian ceramic basin, paintings on the wall and lovely fresh roses in the empty wine bottles. I had to take a photo is was so lovely!
After taking many photos of the grounds we ventured on further up to Yallingup and onto Bussellton.
The Jetty here is 2kms long and as the weather was becoming very unfavourable I took a couple of photos of the jetty and the 4 little blue jetty houses before buying hot coffee and heading back to Flinder's Bay.
On the way we continued noting more of the town ending in 'UP' – Ninndup, Boranup, Boodijup, Calgardup, Nuralingup, Karrinup, Kudardup, Cowaramup, Willyabrup, Metricup, Marrinup, Jangalarup, Wardanup, Gunyulgup, Kilkarnup, Carbunup, Gunyulgup, Yallingup, Meelup, Quindalup, Wonnerup. This activity seems to quell the boredom – a bit like 'spotto' I guess.
I buy a BBQ chicken on the way and cook some roast veges as with enjoy it in the warmth and comfort of our van as the rain gently falls outside.
FRIDAY 24TH APRIL, 2009 - FLINDER'S BAY, AUGUSTA, W.A. - DAY 46
We feel the cooler weather with intermittent rain has now set in so swimming and walking on the beach is not really an option. We are committed to stay here until our mail arrives (hopefully today) but as it has to go through Perth from Sydney first then make its way down here to the bottom of WA I am not that confident we will get it until Tuesday. We are getting really bored as there are only so many times we can watch the re-runs of McLeods Daughters!!!!!
Our booking here is until Tuesday so can only hope it arrives as we are keen to push on and head north to warmer weather.
As we had such a huge day yesterday we are keen to spend the day around camp. I think I will use up some of our vegestables and make a bit pot of soup. The perfect weather for it and as we have found a lovely little bakery in town that serves the freshest crustiest bread it will make our confinement that little more enjoyable.
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
TUESDAY 14th APRIL 2009 – HYDEN TO ALBANY W.A.
We pack up and get away early as we have a long drive ahead of us to Albany. We back track from Wave Rock (5 kms) to Hyden where we fill up with petrol and hot coffee before we notice across the street some unusual looking metal figures.
We stop and on closer investigation notice these rusty old metal figures and on reading the descriptions they started with a local farmer turning his old junk into 'junk art'. This became a competition between the farmers so now there are approximately 20 displays. We found some of them very amusing but extremely clever nevertheless.
From here we drive west then turn off south towards Albany on the coast. We stop at a very quaint little town called Lake Grace which is a major grain growing region for the state producing wheat, canola, oats, barley, lupins and legumes. As we drive there are sandy plains which are beginning to be transformed into a sea of colour for the wildflower season.
We notice there is a Mission Hospital Museum here which we think might be of interest. It is adjoining the local Hospital so we drive into the Accident and Emergency area (quite an unusual sight for this sleepy little town) as we are towing our 16' caravan. We find an area to park and head towards the entrance of the old hospital. It is all closed up so we walk across the lawn to the 'nurses tearoom'. It is full of activity with morning tea in full swing. We ask the nurses if we can enter the museum and we are told that we need to phone a number on the door as it is not manned regularly. I guess typical of the country.
The nurses on duty were delightful and so helpful but we weren't prepared to wait and lose time so we decided to push on and continue our journey.
It was on this drive south we started to notice the names of the towns, mostly ending in “UP”! We decided to make a note of them as we were driving through them ie Pingrup, Gnowangerup, Ongerup, Jerramungup, Kojonup, arriving into Albany at around 4pm.
We found a nice quiet caravan park about 4kms out of town at Emu Bay. We found a lovely site with a view of the beach and I left Nick to set up camp while I went into town to buy some food.
As I was driving through the roundabout Jan was just crossing the road in front of me. I park the car and after Alan also finding us we stop for a chat. They arrived here yesterday and are staying at the caravan park next to ours. We don't make any definite arrangement to catch up as they are going to be playing a bit of golf but we are in phone contact.
I buy the few things we need and then head back to camp. Lucy has made friends with a gorgeous black afghan named Lara who is staying in the tent next to ours. They have a lovely time romping around and playing with each other.
The wind is beginning to come up so we cook dinner, batten down the hatches and after watching a little bit of TV we are off to bed.
We stop and on closer investigation notice these rusty old metal figures and on reading the descriptions they started with a local farmer turning his old junk into 'junk art'. This became a competition between the farmers so now there are approximately 20 displays. We found some of them very amusing but extremely clever nevertheless.
From here we drive west then turn off south towards Albany on the coast. We stop at a very quaint little town called Lake Grace which is a major grain growing region for the state producing wheat, canola, oats, barley, lupins and legumes. As we drive there are sandy plains which are beginning to be transformed into a sea of colour for the wildflower season.
We notice there is a Mission Hospital Museum here which we think might be of interest. It is adjoining the local Hospital so we drive into the Accident and Emergency area (quite an unusual sight for this sleepy little town) as we are towing our 16' caravan. We find an area to park and head towards the entrance of the old hospital. It is all closed up so we walk across the lawn to the 'nurses tearoom'. It is full of activity with morning tea in full swing. We ask the nurses if we can enter the museum and we are told that we need to phone a number on the door as it is not manned regularly. I guess typical of the country.
The nurses on duty were delightful and so helpful but we weren't prepared to wait and lose time so we decided to push on and continue our journey.
It was on this drive south we started to notice the names of the towns, mostly ending in “UP”! We decided to make a note of them as we were driving through them ie Pingrup, Gnowangerup, Ongerup, Jerramungup, Kojonup, arriving into Albany at around 4pm.
We found a nice quiet caravan park about 4kms out of town at Emu Bay. We found a lovely site with a view of the beach and I left Nick to set up camp while I went into town to buy some food.
As I was driving through the roundabout Jan was just crossing the road in front of me. I park the car and after Alan also finding us we stop for a chat. They arrived here yesterday and are staying at the caravan park next to ours. We don't make any definite arrangement to catch up as they are going to be playing a bit of golf but we are in phone contact.
I buy the few things we need and then head back to camp. Lucy has made friends with a gorgeous black afghan named Lara who is staying in the tent next to ours. They have a lovely time romping around and playing with each other.
The wind is beginning to come up so we cook dinner, batten down the hatches and after watching a little bit of TV we are off to bed.
Monday, April 13, 2009
MONDAY 13th APRIL 2009 (EASTER MONDAY) – WAVE ROCK (HYDEN) W.A. – DAY 35
The weather forecast predicted showers today so with no sign of any cloud thismorning we decide to take a bike ride to where the rock is.
I am still not overly confident riding – especially with Lucy as my passenger – but I am firm with her to sit in her basket while we go for a ride around the park. I wouldn’t say it was her favourite past time however, it is an outing with us so she tolerates it. Even after a while she appears to be enjoying it but compared to her long walks on the beaches this I’m sure, in her eyes, does not compare. We try to convince her that the nearest beach is about 300kms away so she will just have to wait.
It is not very far to the beginning of the Wave Rock walk and the surface is quite uneven so we ride a couple of laps of the caravan park, then put the bikes away. We decide we will walk it.
Wave Rock is a granite cliff 15 metres high and 110 metres long. It’s rounded like shape has been caused by weathering and water erosion which has undercut the base and left a rounded overhang. Water from the springs running down the rock during wettermonths dissolve minerals, adding to the colouring of the wave. In 1960 crystals from Wave Rock were dated as being 2700 million years old, amongst the oldest in Australia.
We get back to the caravan park and it is almost deserted as at the end of the Easter weekend we imagine people will be heading back to the coast. We will stay here tonight and head off early tomorrow.
I am still not overly confident riding – especially with Lucy as my passenger – but I am firm with her to sit in her basket while we go for a ride around the park. I wouldn’t say it was her favourite past time however, it is an outing with us so she tolerates it. Even after a while she appears to be enjoying it but compared to her long walks on the beaches this I’m sure, in her eyes, does not compare. We try to convince her that the nearest beach is about 300kms away so she will just have to wait.
It is not very far to the beginning of the Wave Rock walk and the surface is quite uneven so we ride a couple of laps of the caravan park, then put the bikes away. We decide we will walk it.
Wave Rock is a granite cliff 15 metres high and 110 metres long. It’s rounded like shape has been caused by weathering and water erosion which has undercut the base and left a rounded overhang. Water from the springs running down the rock during wettermonths dissolve minerals, adding to the colouring of the wave. In 1960 crystals from Wave Rock were dated as being 2700 million years old, amongst the oldest in Australia.
We get back to the caravan park and it is almost deserted as at the end of the Easter weekend we imagine people will be heading back to the coast. We will stay here tonight and head off early tomorrow.
SUNDAY 12th APRIL 2009 – KALGOORLIE TO HYDEN W.A. – DAY 34
It is a long day ahead of us of driving today as we head back towards the coast. We take about ½ hour to pack up – we are getting better at this. We drive west through Coolgardie, Southern Cross and Merredin and onto Hyden. Just under 500kms. Along the way there are many ghost towns that once teemed with life now stand as relics to the 1890’s gold rush. Intriguing ruins, quaint surviving hotels and vast salt lakes dot the landscape. Wave Rock is about 5kms from Hyden so we decide to stay there for the night.
We pull into the lovely rustic caravan park about 4pm and are met by the Manager. A delightful man who is retired (he was a New Zealand Sheep Farmer) now. He and his wife were travelling around Australia and was offered work here as a fill in Manager. That was 3 months ago!!!
He tells the park is very busy but we notice it is very comfortable – not wall to wall vans and we are given an en-suite site. After setting up I cook beef kebabs on our outside BBQ and we enjoy dinner and wine by candlelight under the clearest of clear skies. The stars are so vivid in the bush.
This is a lovely way to spend our 11th Wedding Anniversary!
We pull into the lovely rustic caravan park about 4pm and are met by the Manager. A delightful man who is retired (he was a New Zealand Sheep Farmer) now. He and his wife were travelling around Australia and was offered work here as a fill in Manager. That was 3 months ago!!!
He tells the park is very busy but we notice it is very comfortable – not wall to wall vans and we are given an en-suite site. After setting up I cook beef kebabs on our outside BBQ and we enjoy dinner and wine by candlelight under the clearest of clear skies. The stars are so vivid in the bush.
This is a lovely way to spend our 11th Wedding Anniversary!
SATURDAY 11th ARPIL 2009 – KALGOORLIE W.A. – DAY 33
After breakfast we head into town to the local Tourist Information Centre which is absolutely packed. Everyone that couldn’t get accommodation on the Coast must be here we think!!!
Jan and Alan have arrived here as well so we decide to book on the ‘Questa Casa’ Tour. They claim to be the oldest operating brothel in Australia so apart from the norm we may learn some history.
We spend the rest of the day in town, Jan and I shopping and Alan and Nick (on the bored husband’s chair at the local coffee shop “Monty’s”. After lunch we take Lucy back to the van (she is too young to go into a brothel) and Nick and I head back into town.
The brothel is an old pink building with 11 doors at the front. The name above the door is ‘Questa Casa’ (House of …….???????? We are not sure but if you speak Spanish you might be able to enlighten us).
We are ushered into a room by Carmel who is the Madame. A beautifully groomed, very well spoken lady in her late 60’s with a slightly risque’ sense of humour. She has never actively worked in this industry but came to it by chance.
17 years ago, while she was living in Brisbane and recently widowed she approached her doctor and asked her to perform some tests on her as she felt she was suffering perhaps from a hormonal deficiency. Her doctor told her she just needed to get out and busy herself.
Carmel brought many newspapers from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne and scoured the Businesses for sale ads. One ad in each paper kept attracting her attention which was “Business For Sale – Brothel in Kalgoorlie “. She ignored it but after 3 weeks of reading the same ad she decided to enquire.
She flew to Kalgoorlie one weekend and then toured the brothel – she hated it. She checked into one of the local hotels – and hated it. She spent the weekend here and hated it all. She approached Ansett (where she had originally purchased her airline ticket) to ask for an earlier flight back to Brisbane. They said it would cost her an extra $300-00 and there were no flights for 3 days.
After 3 days she had fallen in love with the place and decided to purchase the ‘business’. Before she could though there were stringent rules she had to follow – provided by the local police so once she agreed, went through criminal checks etc the oldest operating brothel was hers.
She went back to her doctor and the doctor asked her what she had done. Carmel told her she had brought a Brothel in Kalgoorlie. The shocked doctor replied, when I told you to go out and busy yourself I meant do charity work!!!! That was 17 years ago and she has never looked back.
We were told us of the draconian rules that made their existence possible – filled us in on ‘old Kalgoorlie’ – The wild west stories as well as many other stories of past and present. It was very interesting and well worth the visit.
Back to camp where we picked up Lucy, took her for a walk then drove to the Super Pit where we met Jan and Alan for champagne at sunset. Dinner at the Hogs Breath Café afterwards then a drive through town and the ‘red light district’! That was Saturday night in Kalgoorlie.
Jan and Alan have arrived here as well so we decide to book on the ‘Questa Casa’ Tour. They claim to be the oldest operating brothel in Australia so apart from the norm we may learn some history.
We spend the rest of the day in town, Jan and I shopping and Alan and Nick (on the bored husband’s chair at the local coffee shop “Monty’s”. After lunch we take Lucy back to the van (she is too young to go into a brothel) and Nick and I head back into town.
The brothel is an old pink building with 11 doors at the front. The name above the door is ‘Questa Casa’ (House of …….???????? We are not sure but if you speak Spanish you might be able to enlighten us).
We are ushered into a room by Carmel who is the Madame. A beautifully groomed, very well spoken lady in her late 60’s with a slightly risque’ sense of humour. She has never actively worked in this industry but came to it by chance.
17 years ago, while she was living in Brisbane and recently widowed she approached her doctor and asked her to perform some tests on her as she felt she was suffering perhaps from a hormonal deficiency. Her doctor told her she just needed to get out and busy herself.
Carmel brought many newspapers from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne and scoured the Businesses for sale ads. One ad in each paper kept attracting her attention which was “Business For Sale – Brothel in Kalgoorlie “. She ignored it but after 3 weeks of reading the same ad she decided to enquire.
She flew to Kalgoorlie one weekend and then toured the brothel – she hated it. She checked into one of the local hotels – and hated it. She spent the weekend here and hated it all. She approached Ansett (where she had originally purchased her airline ticket) to ask for an earlier flight back to Brisbane. They said it would cost her an extra $300-00 and there were no flights for 3 days.
After 3 days she had fallen in love with the place and decided to purchase the ‘business’. Before she could though there were stringent rules she had to follow – provided by the local police so once she agreed, went through criminal checks etc the oldest operating brothel was hers.
She went back to her doctor and the doctor asked her what she had done. Carmel told her she had brought a Brothel in Kalgoorlie. The shocked doctor replied, when I told you to go out and busy yourself I meant do charity work!!!! That was 17 years ago and she has never looked back.
We were told us of the draconian rules that made their existence possible – filled us in on ‘old Kalgoorlie’ – The wild west stories as well as many other stories of past and present. It was very interesting and well worth the visit.
Back to camp where we picked up Lucy, took her for a walk then drove to the Super Pit where we met Jan and Alan for champagne at sunset. Dinner at the Hogs Breath Café afterwards then a drive through town and the ‘red light district’! That was Saturday night in Kalgoorlie.
FRIDAY 10TH APRIL 2009 (GOOD FRIDAY) – ESPERANCE TO KALGOORLIE W.A. – DAY 32
It is another glorious day here in Esperance and it is with a hint of sadness that we have to leave here today. With Easter upon us every caravan park here and along the ocean is full – which is not surprising as many people from inland Kalgoorlie/Boulder etc come to the coast for the 4 day break. After seeing the beaches in this area we know why it gets very crowded.
Our pack up is surprisingly easy and we manage to get away with no dramas. We drive to Kalgoorlie (back along the same road from Norseman that we came in on). We stop at Norseman for petrol and find a lovely, shady park for a picnic lunch. Lucy enjoys playing with 2 beautiful golden cocker spaniels while we eat our lunch in the shade.
Back on the road again, passing many mines and the remoteness and changing flora along the route is a quiet thrill in itself, but the big surprise is seeing a thriving centre rising out of the landscape at the twin towns of Kalgoorlie-Boulder. Restaurants and pubs (with scantily clad barmaids) line the wide streets of this historic gold mining town.
I phone Jan and Alan who are here already and unfortunately Jan is suffering from what appears to be ‘shingles’. She has been experiencing lots of pain and a dreadful rash. The local chemist advises her that as she has had symptoms for longer than 10 days there is not much that can be done. She buys ointment and pain killers which hopefully will give her some relief.
They are staying in Boulder not far from where we have booked into a pet friendly park so they arrange to come over to see us once we are settled.
It’s 5 o’clock just as Alan and Jan arrive on their bikes so we open a cold bottle of wine and enjoy it as we discuss our plans for tomorrow. We were here in 2005 on our last trip and did a fantastic organised Tour which was excellent which showed us many of the highlights.
I have made curried prawns for our traditional Good Friday meal which we enjoy under the clearest of clear skies.
Our pack up is surprisingly easy and we manage to get away with no dramas. We drive to Kalgoorlie (back along the same road from Norseman that we came in on). We stop at Norseman for petrol and find a lovely, shady park for a picnic lunch. Lucy enjoys playing with 2 beautiful golden cocker spaniels while we eat our lunch in the shade.
Back on the road again, passing many mines and the remoteness and changing flora along the route is a quiet thrill in itself, but the big surprise is seeing a thriving centre rising out of the landscape at the twin towns of Kalgoorlie-Boulder. Restaurants and pubs (with scantily clad barmaids) line the wide streets of this historic gold mining town.
I phone Jan and Alan who are here already and unfortunately Jan is suffering from what appears to be ‘shingles’. She has been experiencing lots of pain and a dreadful rash. The local chemist advises her that as she has had symptoms for longer than 10 days there is not much that can be done. She buys ointment and pain killers which hopefully will give her some relief.
They are staying in Boulder not far from where we have booked into a pet friendly park so they arrange to come over to see us once we are settled.
It’s 5 o’clock just as Alan and Jan arrive on their bikes so we open a cold bottle of wine and enjoy it as we discuss our plans for tomorrow. We were here in 2005 on our last trip and did a fantastic organised Tour which was excellent which showed us many of the highlights.
I have made curried prawns for our traditional Good Friday meal which we enjoy under the clearest of clear skies.
THURSDAY 9TH APRIL 2009 – ESPERANCE W.A. – DAY 31
There is a lovely drive we have been told called ‘The Great Ocean Drive’. We will take our lunch and drive west through town. The scenery is so spectacular and we stop at each of the beaches for photo shoots. A swim is not really appealing today as the temperature outside is around 19 degrees so the water temperature is about the same but the wind would make it very uncomfortable. We will be just satisfied with the view.
As we head back to town we stop to buy meat and seafood and fresh fruit and vegetables as being Good Friday tomorrow we won’t have anywhere to purchase these foods. Our plan is to drive up to Kalgoorlie then west to Southern Cross then down to Hyden. Arriving back to Albany and the Coast after Easter where hopefully it will be easier to get into caravan parks by the ocean. We will see!!!
PS Happy 21st Birthday to my nephew Nicholas – hope you had a great party!!!
As we head back to town we stop to buy meat and seafood and fresh fruit and vegetables as being Good Friday tomorrow we won’t have anywhere to purchase these foods. Our plan is to drive up to Kalgoorlie then west to Southern Cross then down to Hyden. Arriving back to Albany and the Coast after Easter where hopefully it will be easier to get into caravan parks by the ocean. We will see!!!
PS Happy 21st Birthday to my nephew Nicholas – hope you had a great party!!!
WEDNESDAY 8th APRIL 2009 – ESPERANCE W.A. – DAY 30
I pack a couple of salad rolls and cold water into our picnic esky and Jan and Alan meet us at 8:45am ready to embark on our day of sightseeing.
We head out along the main road, pay our fees at the Park Office, before coming to a dirt road where it leads to the most pristine beach we had ever seen. The sand was powder white and the water was a beautiful pale aqua changing to a darker blue further out to sea.
At Wylies Beach Jan and Nick couldn’t resist and had to have a swim. With the temperature around 19 degrees, a little cold for Alan and I but maybe with the sun beating down it would warm up during the day.
Next stop was Frenchman’s Peak (the equivalent to Mt Warning) with many people walking up to the summit. A quick photo shoot and then onto Hellfire Bay. This time Alan and I joined Nick and Jan for another swim and despite the cold was very refreshing.
We drove around all the beaches to Thistle Cove. More photos and then we head to Condingup Tavern for Orleans Bay Snapper and cold beer.
After lunch a visit to Lucky Bay (where they do all the advertising) 1 more quick swim and then onto Little Wharton Beach. We think the West Australians have reason to boast they have the best beaches. We can’t decide which is the nicest though.
We arrive home to Lucy who is so excited to see us. She has been cooped up in the van all day – and although she had plenty of fresh air we feel we need to take her out for a long beach walk. She has forgiven us we are sure as she runs and plays in the ocean and on the sand.
Jan and Alan phone us to say they will leave early in the morning and will see us in Kalgoorlie in a day or two.
We head out along the main road, pay our fees at the Park Office, before coming to a dirt road where it leads to the most pristine beach we had ever seen. The sand was powder white and the water was a beautiful pale aqua changing to a darker blue further out to sea.
At Wylies Beach Jan and Nick couldn’t resist and had to have a swim. With the temperature around 19 degrees, a little cold for Alan and I but maybe with the sun beating down it would warm up during the day.
Next stop was Frenchman’s Peak (the equivalent to Mt Warning) with many people walking up to the summit. A quick photo shoot and then onto Hellfire Bay. This time Alan and I joined Nick and Jan for another swim and despite the cold was very refreshing.
We drove around all the beaches to Thistle Cove. More photos and then we head to Condingup Tavern for Orleans Bay Snapper and cold beer.
After lunch a visit to Lucky Bay (where they do all the advertising) 1 more quick swim and then onto Little Wharton Beach. We think the West Australians have reason to boast they have the best beaches. We can’t decide which is the nicest though.
We arrive home to Lucy who is so excited to see us. She has been cooped up in the van all day – and although she had plenty of fresh air we feel we need to take her out for a long beach walk. She has forgiven us we are sure as she runs and plays in the ocean and on the sand.
Jan and Alan phone us to say they will leave early in the morning and will see us in Kalgoorlie in a day or two.
TUESDAY 7TH APRIL 2009 – ESPERANCE W.A. – DAY 29
Alan phones this-morning to say that they are having trouble with their battery and could we pick him up and he follow us to the place we are to pick up our battery which we do. He checks out his problem and we pick up our battery. We take it back to the van and put it in and everything now works perfectly. Breakfast and coffee is a priority so we drive back to town to the local coffee shop (recommended by Jan and Alan that their coffee is equivalent to the Choux Box) we order coffee and lunch and they are right. The coffee and food is delicious. After lunch we drive back to camp and spend the afternoon organizing before taking Lucy for a long long walk along the leash free beach. She is loving this life.
We get a phone call from Jan and Alan to ask us if we’d like to go to Cape Le Grande National Park with them for the day tomorrow. Lucy will have to stay in the van as dogs are not permitted. We feel a bit guilty but agree to go nevertheless!
We get a phone call from Jan and Alan to ask us if we’d like to go to Cape Le Grande National Park with them for the day tomorrow. Lucy will have to stay in the van as dogs are not permitted. We feel a bit guilty but agree to go nevertheless!
MONDAY 6TH APRIL 2009 – ESPERANCE W.A. – DAY 28
Daybreak is more civilized at around 6:45am now so we rise early, pack up and head for Norseman. We haven’t had proper showers for 2 days now (just warm sponge baths) so we are really looking forward to staying in a caravan park tonight.
We stop in Norseman and fill up with petrol and find a local coffee shop for breakfast. Bacon and eggs and although not the Choux Box (Best Coffee Shop at Kingscliff in northern NSW) coffee it will do for now. The girl behind the counter, despite having only about 4 teeth in her head, was very pleasant, friendly and helpful. Breakfast was very old fashioned and huge so I ate ½ and wrapped the rest up to take back to Lucy who was patiently waiting in the car by the park across the road.
It takes us about 4 hours to Esperance, on the south western end of Western Australia.
We get a phone call from Jan and Alan to say they are already in Esperance and they are staying in a caravan park which is not pet friendly. We have already booked into Bathers Caravan Park, north of the town and with Easter coming up we can only stay there until (Good) Friday morning. Jan and Alan will leave on Thursday.
We have a problem with our battery so on the way we stop at a battery specialist. They tell us it will take a couple of hours to fix so we patiently wait. It will take longer than expected so they ask us if we can come back tomorrow and pick up the battery which we agree to.
We are desperate for showers so as soon as we get to the caravan park and find our site we head off to the showers. It is heaven. I also do a couple of loads of washing while Nick fine tunes the setting up of our camp.
Jan and Alan have ridden their bikes around to see us and give us a report on the places here to see.
We stop in Norseman and fill up with petrol and find a local coffee shop for breakfast. Bacon and eggs and although not the Choux Box (Best Coffee Shop at Kingscliff in northern NSW) coffee it will do for now. The girl behind the counter, despite having only about 4 teeth in her head, was very pleasant, friendly and helpful. Breakfast was very old fashioned and huge so I ate ½ and wrapped the rest up to take back to Lucy who was patiently waiting in the car by the park across the road.
It takes us about 4 hours to Esperance, on the south western end of Western Australia.
We get a phone call from Jan and Alan to say they are already in Esperance and they are staying in a caravan park which is not pet friendly. We have already booked into Bathers Caravan Park, north of the town and with Easter coming up we can only stay there until (Good) Friday morning. Jan and Alan will leave on Thursday.
We have a problem with our battery so on the way we stop at a battery specialist. They tell us it will take a couple of hours to fix so we patiently wait. It will take longer than expected so they ask us if we can come back tomorrow and pick up the battery which we agree to.
We are desperate for showers so as soon as we get to the caravan park and find our site we head off to the showers. It is heaven. I also do a couple of loads of washing while Nick fine tunes the setting up of our camp.
Jan and Alan have ridden their bikes around to see us and give us a report on the places here to see.
SUNDAY 5TH APRIL 2009 – HARMS LAKE – NULLABOR PLAIN (FREE CAMP) – DAY 27
We leave here at around 8:30am – (it doesn’t get daylight out here until about 7:45am) so we continue our drive west, again stopping at the various lookouts dotted just off the highway.
Jan and Alan decide they will head to the National Park so leave us and we arrange to meet in a few days time in Esperance. We continue our journey and drive all day until we find a free camp site – 167kms from Norseman. We have not done a free camp on our own before so are a bit apprehensive but are keen to do it. We find a lovely clean spot and set up our table and chairs and Nick endeavours to build our fire. Lucy is in 7th heaven as she is let off her leash and allowed to discover the mysteries of the bush. We are a bit mindful of snakes but how can we stop her from enjoying this freedom after being cooped up in the car all day!!
Before long it is raging but fully contained in our ‘gerilla’. I cook steak and make a salad and we sit outside as night is beginning to fall, and it is evident it will be a lovely clear night.
My paranoia sets in as I see flashing lights heading close to our remote little campsite. I am worried that the local fire brigade has spotted our fire. With the devastation of the recent Victorian Bushfires I think even the word ‘fire’ sends chills up your spine.
It turned out that the flashing light was the head car for 2 semi trailers (long load) each carrying a luxury cruiser. They were obviously using this site as an overnight campsite and were not interested in our fire. We spend a couple of hours enjoying the peace and quiet, the smell of the bush, the clear night sky and the fascination of our fire. We wished Jan and Alan could be with us as they, we are sure, would love this.
By 9:00pm we were in bed, fire put safely out, and looking forward to a night of blissful sleep.
Jan and Alan decide they will head to the National Park so leave us and we arrange to meet in a few days time in Esperance. We continue our journey and drive all day until we find a free camp site – 167kms from Norseman. We have not done a free camp on our own before so are a bit apprehensive but are keen to do it. We find a lovely clean spot and set up our table and chairs and Nick endeavours to build our fire. Lucy is in 7th heaven as she is let off her leash and allowed to discover the mysteries of the bush. We are a bit mindful of snakes but how can we stop her from enjoying this freedom after being cooped up in the car all day!!
Before long it is raging but fully contained in our ‘gerilla’. I cook steak and make a salad and we sit outside as night is beginning to fall, and it is evident it will be a lovely clear night.
My paranoia sets in as I see flashing lights heading close to our remote little campsite. I am worried that the local fire brigade has spotted our fire. With the devastation of the recent Victorian Bushfires I think even the word ‘fire’ sends chills up your spine.
It turned out that the flashing light was the head car for 2 semi trailers (long load) each carrying a luxury cruiser. They were obviously using this site as an overnight campsite and were not interested in our fire. We spend a couple of hours enjoying the peace and quiet, the smell of the bush, the clear night sky and the fascination of our fire. We wished Jan and Alan could be with us as they, we are sure, would love this.
By 9:00pm we were in bed, fire put safely out, and looking forward to a night of blissful sleep.
SATURDAY 4TH APRIL 2009 – FOWLER’S BAY TO FREE CAMP (NULLABOR PLAIN) – DAY 26
We’d still like to do a little more sightseeing before we leave here so we pack up. Alan suggests some sand driving, which we are not that experienced at but we agree anyway. With Alan’s expert guidance, our trusty UHF radio and lots of luck we drive along the beach. It is great fun! The scenery along the way is beautiful as we head to Point Sinclair which is well worth seeing.
After about an hour and a half we drive back to camp (along the beach) and hook up the caravan/camper and before long we have arrived at the beginning of the Nullabor Plain.
About 60kms into our journey we encounter a huge road train travelling in front of us. I am driving and decide to overtake him (the road is so straight the thought of this is not a problem)!. As I drive up along side of him he accelerates and I find the van is becoming uncontrollable with fishtailing vigorously. I was finding, at 100kms an hour, it was difficult to accelerate which is the done practice in this situation. Jan and Alan were apparently screaming at us via the UHF radio but it had somehow been knocked off channel (2) and we couldn’t hear them. Despite panicking I was able to correct and avoid a catastrophe.
By the time we met Jan and Alan at Head of Bight, the reality of it all had hit me and I began to suffer from delayed shock and as we opened the van door we were faced with chaos! Broken glasses and breakfast cereal strewn all over the van. As soon as I was faced with this sight I completely broke down and realized the seriousness of the situation and the thought of what could have been!!!
Jan made us a cup of tea (where’s the brandy when you need it) and a sandwich before we headed down towards the Head of Bight Lookout. Unfortunately it was too early for the whales but as we saw many of them when we were here in 2005 we weren’t too disappointed. It would have been nice for Jan and Alan’s sake however, the view was spectacular nevertheless.
We continue our journey and only stop for petrol at the various roadhouses along the way.
The rest stop we find for the night is about 50metres off the road and it is here we do a ‘free camp’. No toilets or showers and fairly remote. We stayed hooked up to the van/camper and as its quite cool it is a good opportunity for us to get our ‘gerilla’ out so we head off to collect firewood.
Jan and Alan have an early dinner (I am wanting to use up our fresh vegetables in a risotto as we have to relinquish any unused tomorrow at the border quarantine station). It takes a little longer for us to finish ours but once done we sit around the fire trying to create atmosphere. It just doesn’t happen. I think the night sky is not that clear, no stars and we are all a bit tired so it’s not long before we abandon this idea and head to bed.
After about an hour and a half we drive back to camp (along the beach) and hook up the caravan/camper and before long we have arrived at the beginning of the Nullabor Plain.
About 60kms into our journey we encounter a huge road train travelling in front of us. I am driving and decide to overtake him (the road is so straight the thought of this is not a problem)!. As I drive up along side of him he accelerates and I find the van is becoming uncontrollable with fishtailing vigorously. I was finding, at 100kms an hour, it was difficult to accelerate which is the done practice in this situation. Jan and Alan were apparently screaming at us via the UHF radio but it had somehow been knocked off channel (2) and we couldn’t hear them. Despite panicking I was able to correct and avoid a catastrophe.
By the time we met Jan and Alan at Head of Bight, the reality of it all had hit me and I began to suffer from delayed shock and as we opened the van door we were faced with chaos! Broken glasses and breakfast cereal strewn all over the van. As soon as I was faced with this sight I completely broke down and realized the seriousness of the situation and the thought of what could have been!!!
Jan made us a cup of tea (where’s the brandy when you need it) and a sandwich before we headed down towards the Head of Bight Lookout. Unfortunately it was too early for the whales but as we saw many of them when we were here in 2005 we weren’t too disappointed. It would have been nice for Jan and Alan’s sake however, the view was spectacular nevertheless.
We continue our journey and only stop for petrol at the various roadhouses along the way.
The rest stop we find for the night is about 50metres off the road and it is here we do a ‘free camp’. No toilets or showers and fairly remote. We stayed hooked up to the van/camper and as its quite cool it is a good opportunity for us to get our ‘gerilla’ out so we head off to collect firewood.
Jan and Alan have an early dinner (I am wanting to use up our fresh vegetables in a risotto as we have to relinquish any unused tomorrow at the border quarantine station). It takes a little longer for us to finish ours but once done we sit around the fire trying to create atmosphere. It just doesn’t happen. I think the night sky is not that clear, no stars and we are all a bit tired so it’s not long before we abandon this idea and head to bed.
FRIDAY 3RD APRIL 2009 – FOWLER’S BAY S.A. – DAY 25
We wake up to a gorgeous morning this morning. Nick takes Lucy for a walk on the beach and I decide to do some cleaning up and washing.
Jan and Alan ask us if we’d like to do some sightseeing with them which agree to and together with Lucy we drive to Penong, a small town which is famous for its windmills. There are about 15 of them all grouped together as you arrive into town. We head to the Woolshed Museum and Craft Display. Jan and I make some purchases – many items here have been made by the locals so we feel we are helping to support the local community. Lunch is fresh fish and cold beer at the local pub.
After lunch we drive about 20kms to the coast and to Cactus Beach which is a famous surfing spot. There are a couple of surfers who are braving the huge surf, Nick declines the offer to join them!
We drive back to camp for dinner (oysters again)and an early night as we have made the decision to leave here tomorrow to cross the Nullabor.
Jan and Alan ask us if we’d like to do some sightseeing with them which agree to and together with Lucy we drive to Penong, a small town which is famous for its windmills. There are about 15 of them all grouped together as you arrive into town. We head to the Woolshed Museum and Craft Display. Jan and I make some purchases – many items here have been made by the locals so we feel we are helping to support the local community. Lunch is fresh fish and cold beer at the local pub.
After lunch we drive about 20kms to the coast and to Cactus Beach which is a famous surfing spot. There are a couple of surfers who are braving the huge surf, Nick declines the offer to join them!
We drive back to camp for dinner (oysters again)and an early night as we have made the decision to leave here tomorrow to cross the Nullabor.
THURSDAY 2ND APRIL 2009 – STREAKY BAY S.A. TO FOWLER’S BAY S.A. – DAY 24
We rise early today as we are going to head towards Ceduna. If we like Smoky Bay which is on the way we will stay there for a couple of nights.
Our packing up doesn’t seem to be getting any easier despite all efforts to pack away things the night before. As we are putting the awning away, I let the little piece of rope go (by mistake) and the awning, as it was rolling up, hits the side of the van and the screws are completely pulled out. We have to somehow, attach it with some rope but this is proving difficult as the awning is so heavy. I ask one of our neighbours if he can give us a hand, which he does and we get it in place.
We make enquiries at the local Service Station and they give us direction to a local Welder. The young chap is very helpful and tells us he can fix the problem if we can leave the van here for 1 ½ hours. So much for our early departure!!!
The van is manouvred and then unhooked and we drive into town to have a coffee and an early lunch. We sit on the deck of a local restaurant – The Mocean, with gorgeous views over the bay. We have a sandwich and coffee, and I buy some supplies and before we know it it is time to pick up the van.
The job is done, and is as good as new. We pay him and are off, heading towards Smoky Bay.
It is quite a pretty drive along the coast and we arrive into Smoky Bay. With a population of about 200, it is a really pretty little village but the caravan park is crowded and quite unappealing. As Jan would say lots of ‘grey nomads’. We decide to drive onto Ceduna and eventually end up in Fowler’s Bay. Our neighbours at Streaky Bay were heading to Fowler’s Bay for 2 weeks. They fish and as we are not really fishing people we are not sure it will suit us.
We stop of at “The Oyster Bar” on the highway just the other side of Ceduna. When we were here in 2005 we purchased the best oysters we had ever tasted from this little shop so hopefully, they still have the reputation of the best oysters ever!!
When we arrive at the little shop there are 2 ladies relentlessly opening the freshest and biggest juiciest oysters so I buy 2 dozen. At $9-00 a dozen I decide to buy 2 more dozen. We will be eating oysters for days (or 2 days at least)!! After buying petrol we head out of town towards Fowler’ Bay.
Jan and Alan phone us in the meantime and say they are 20kms the other side of Ceduna and will see us in Fowler’s Bay. As they love oysters too we remind them to stop at the Oyster Bar to get their oysters as well.
As we get to the turn off and drive the 24kms on to Fowler’s Bay we are overwhelmed at the site as we come over the rise. The view is spectacular. With the site of the blue ocean, white sand-hills and green vegetation we are keen to arrive at our camp site for the night.
Fowler’s Bay is a tiny seaside village. Dotted with 3 or 4 holiday houses, a caravan park on the oceanfront, a kiosk and jetty this is gorgeous.
We meet the Manager and he shows us to our site. We un-hitch and get set for the night. About 20 minutes later Jan and Alan arrive, are shown to their site (next to ours). They set up, do some washing and then join us for fresh oysters. We are not disappointed they are delicious.
Our packing up doesn’t seem to be getting any easier despite all efforts to pack away things the night before. As we are putting the awning away, I let the little piece of rope go (by mistake) and the awning, as it was rolling up, hits the side of the van and the screws are completely pulled out. We have to somehow, attach it with some rope but this is proving difficult as the awning is so heavy. I ask one of our neighbours if he can give us a hand, which he does and we get it in place.
We make enquiries at the local Service Station and they give us direction to a local Welder. The young chap is very helpful and tells us he can fix the problem if we can leave the van here for 1 ½ hours. So much for our early departure!!!
The van is manouvred and then unhooked and we drive into town to have a coffee and an early lunch. We sit on the deck of a local restaurant – The Mocean, with gorgeous views over the bay. We have a sandwich and coffee, and I buy some supplies and before we know it it is time to pick up the van.
The job is done, and is as good as new. We pay him and are off, heading towards Smoky Bay.
It is quite a pretty drive along the coast and we arrive into Smoky Bay. With a population of about 200, it is a really pretty little village but the caravan park is crowded and quite unappealing. As Jan would say lots of ‘grey nomads’. We decide to drive onto Ceduna and eventually end up in Fowler’s Bay. Our neighbours at Streaky Bay were heading to Fowler’s Bay for 2 weeks. They fish and as we are not really fishing people we are not sure it will suit us.
We stop of at “The Oyster Bar” on the highway just the other side of Ceduna. When we were here in 2005 we purchased the best oysters we had ever tasted from this little shop so hopefully, they still have the reputation of the best oysters ever!!
When we arrive at the little shop there are 2 ladies relentlessly opening the freshest and biggest juiciest oysters so I buy 2 dozen. At $9-00 a dozen I decide to buy 2 more dozen. We will be eating oysters for days (or 2 days at least)!! After buying petrol we head out of town towards Fowler’ Bay.
Jan and Alan phone us in the meantime and say they are 20kms the other side of Ceduna and will see us in Fowler’s Bay. As they love oysters too we remind them to stop at the Oyster Bar to get their oysters as well.
As we get to the turn off and drive the 24kms on to Fowler’s Bay we are overwhelmed at the site as we come over the rise. The view is spectacular. With the site of the blue ocean, white sand-hills and green vegetation we are keen to arrive at our camp site for the night.
Fowler’s Bay is a tiny seaside village. Dotted with 3 or 4 holiday houses, a caravan park on the oceanfront, a kiosk and jetty this is gorgeous.
We meet the Manager and he shows us to our site. We un-hitch and get set for the night. About 20 minutes later Jan and Alan arrive, are shown to their site (next to ours). They set up, do some washing and then join us for fresh oysters. We are not disappointed they are delicious.
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Sunday, April 5, 2009
WEDNESDAY 1st APRIL 2009 – STREAKY BAY S.A. – 23
I need to do another load of washing so while I’m doing this I hear Jan’s voice outside the laundry. She and Alan have driven up from Elliston (they needed to stay closer to Port Lincoln to wait for a part for their car). They wanted to check in with us before heading back to Baird Bay where they will spend the night ready for their day swimming with the seals and dolphins tomorrow. (I wish I was going with them as I could quite easily spend another day enjoying these sea animals)!!!
We drive into town to and hooray! Our mail has arrived. I don’t know why we got so excited as there were only bills – but bills have to be paid and it is a nice feeling to get them all out of the way at once.
There is a lovely café in town called the Mocean – which serves modern Australian food – the best restaurant in this area – so we sit on the balcony having lunch while going through our mail.
Jan and Alan have replenished their food supplies and will see us in a few days. We head back to camp where I can pay bills online, catch up with emails, update this blog and spend the afternoon, swimming, reading etc.. We will then start to pack up ready for our departure tomorrow.
We drive into town to and hooray! Our mail has arrived. I don’t know why we got so excited as there were only bills – but bills have to be paid and it is a nice feeling to get them all out of the way at once.
There is a lovely café in town called the Mocean – which serves modern Australian food – the best restaurant in this area – so we sit on the balcony having lunch while going through our mail.
Jan and Alan have replenished their food supplies and will see us in a few days. We head back to camp where I can pay bills online, catch up with emails, update this blog and spend the afternoon, swimming, reading etc.. We will then start to pack up ready for our departure tomorrow.
TUESDAY 31st MARCH 2009 – STREAKY BAY S.A. – DAY 22
Sea Lions ready to play
We are really ready to leave here but as we are waiting for our mail we have to stay. Nick suggests we go to play a game of golf. I reluctantly agree (it is forecast to be in the high 30’s which is not really appealing ). We get our clubs organized, put Lucy on her lead (to our surprise they allow dogs to roam on the golf course unleashed) – not a practice Royal Sydney would adopt we are sure.
The Club House looks deserted but after some knocking on doors and windows we find some workmen in a shed just nearby. They instruct us to leave $10-00 each in an envelope provided and put it into an outside cupboard – which we do.
It is a bit hard to find the first Tee but after some difficulty we eventually find it. By this time Lucy has run marathons all over the place – having a wonderful time.
By the 4th hole I have had enough. The temperature is soaring, I am perspiring like you wouldn’t believe, and I am really not enjoying this at all. I decided to abandon this game and head back to the Club House and our air conditioned car. Nick perseveres on his own.
We head back to camp via the post office and again no luck. We would have to wait another day and hopefully our mail will be in. Back at camp and in the comfort of the air-conditioned van we spend another afternoon reading, swimming relaxing.
I don’t feel like cooking tonight so we walk across to the little Pelican Café for fish and chips. The fish is delicious and fresh.
MONDAY 30th MARCH 2009 – STREAKY BAY S.A. (BAIRD BAY) – DAY 21
Us swimming with the dolphins
We wake early, have breakfast, lock Lucy in the Van (air conditioning on of course) and drive the 50kms south the very remote village of Baird Bay.
After some confusion in directions we find the corrugated iron shed where the office is for the Baird Bay Ocean Eco Experience. We are greeted by a delightful young man by the name of Troy who is to be our guide for the day. Alan and Trish Payne moved here to Baird Bay 17 years ago to retire. Before they knew it they had a very lucrative and popular business in taking tourists out to swim with the seals and dolphins. They work closely with the Marine Mammal Centre in protecting these wonderful ocean creatures.
Firstly we meet our other travelling companions – 9 of us altogether, and then we are instructed to put on our wet suits. These are mainly to keep us afloat and to keep out the cold. We are then taken to our large aluminium vessel (exactly the one that is shown on television advertising Tourism South Australia).
Alan is the skipper, instructs us on some safety rules – not only for our sake but for the seals and dolphins as well and give us some vital information. And before long we are motoring out through the crystal clear water of the bay.
The rarest of the seal species in Australian waters and amongst the rarest in the world, the Australian Sea Lion is endemic only to Australia.
Australian Sea Lion population is estimated to be around 12000. This figure is derived from pup counts during a pupping season and only in accessible colonies, so the adult Sea Lion figure is not determined accurately and given numbers can only be a guide.
Troy spots a pod of dolphins and Alan instructs us to enter the water ‘as quickly as possible’!!!! I am a little apprehensive but do as we are told. The water is quite cool – 17 degrees approx. but I am so keen to see these sea animals I take no notice of the water temperature.
In my goggles I put my head under and ‘oh my god’ these 2 beautiful huge dolphins glide just under me. I am ecstatic. I am now surrounded by many dolphins as they glide so close past me. I am not sure where to look as they dart in and out from under my feet. Troy is having a wonderful time – they obviously know him as they are having a game with him. It is the most amazing site. For these huge creatures to have so much trust in us.
We spend about 10 minutes ‘playing with them’ and then we get back onto the boat and head across the bay to the Sea Lion Colony. There are quite a few older ones sunning themselves on the beach but all of a sudden we see the younger ones coming towards us. We are instructed again to go into the water ‘as quickly as possible’ again. It is like swimming with playful little Labrador pups. They love the games and the older ones are happy to come face to face with you as they are just as inquisitive of us as we are of them.
I love the advertisement where the lady pops her head out of the water and says to ‘Alan’ how long can we do this for! He replies until they get bored with it’. She says, how could anyone ever get bored with this and he replies, I wasn’t talking about the people.
This is so true. These little creatures were happy to have us play with them – It is wonderful to see that they are so trusting and it is hard to believe that dolphins and sea lions main predator is the human.
In some parts of the world, they are hunted for food and in some places are clubbed and shot for interfering in scale-fishing practices and, sadly, some are killed ‘for the fun of it’. Fishing and trawl nets are the biggest killers of dolphins with many hundreds falling victim each year.
If ever you are here in South Australia, and particularly the Eyre Peninsula, it is certainly a must and one of the highlights so far.
After checking with the Post Office (our mail had still not arrived) so we brought fresh hot pies for lunch and headed back to camp happy to spend the afternoon relaxing, reading and swimming.
SUNDAY 29th MARCH 2009 – STREAKY BAY S.A. – DAY 20
Dressed in our wet suits ready to go!
I decided to bake a chocolate cake today and will cook a roast lamb meal thisevening. Before we left home I brought a small portable oven which has proven to be a huge success. Who says you can’t have gourmet meals when camping!!!!
We can’t leave here until around Tuesday as we are swimming with the seals tomorrow and also awaiting mail to be sent from Sydney. Chelsea sent it Friday in express post and we were told it should take 1 day to get to Adelaide and then 3 days to get here to Streaky Bay. We are really ready to move on but can’t so we spend the day swimming and reading. It is terribly hot here 37.5 degrees, this is when we enjoy our air conditioner in the van.
Our roast is delicious – as we sit enjoying it, by candlelight as we listen to the waves lapping upon the sand in the bay. This really is not too hard to take!!!
SATURDAY 28th MARCH 2009 – STREAKY BAY S.A. – DAY 19
We spend the morning catching up on housekeeping ie., washing, cleaning the car and tidying up the camp area. It is quite dusty here which is normal and part of camping but we need to keep on top of it nevertheless.
Remembering it is Saturday and shops here, unlike in the east, close on the dot of 12 midday. I needed to get some supplies so I headed into town. Despite the inconvenience of shops closing early the up side is that you can drive and park right outside the supermarket, no crowds (or none to speak of) everyone is so helpful and friendly and makes this task quite easy.
I head back to camp with supplies and we decide as there is a another lovely drive along the Westall Way Loop which we have heard about from the Tourist Information Centre, we decide to do this during the afternoon.
First stop is The Granites a popular surf beach which has lagoon style rock pools. Then High Cliff which has an amazing view of the spectacular coastline. Yanerbie which is a great location for children to run up and down the sand dunes – (Nick and I are a bit past that activity) but fun for the young we are sure. Our last stop was ‘Smooth Pool” which are amazing rock pool formations.
We spent a while exploring them and while there ran into a couple from Terrigal NSW Peter and Trish also travelling around Australia (who were staying at our caravan park) and just this morning had been to swim with the dolphins and seals at Baird Bay - (exactly what we were to do on Monday).
They told us the experience was fantastic, couldn’t stop raving about it which made us more anxious.
We arranged to meet up when we got back to camp for a swim.
Remembering it is Saturday and shops here, unlike in the east, close on the dot of 12 midday. I needed to get some supplies so I headed into town. Despite the inconvenience of shops closing early the up side is that you can drive and park right outside the supermarket, no crowds (or none to speak of) everyone is so helpful and friendly and makes this task quite easy.
I head back to camp with supplies and we decide as there is a another lovely drive along the Westall Way Loop which we have heard about from the Tourist Information Centre, we decide to do this during the afternoon.
First stop is The Granites a popular surf beach which has lagoon style rock pools. Then High Cliff which has an amazing view of the spectacular coastline. Yanerbie which is a great location for children to run up and down the sand dunes – (Nick and I are a bit past that activity) but fun for the young we are sure. Our last stop was ‘Smooth Pool” which are amazing rock pool formations.
We spent a while exploring them and while there ran into a couple from Terrigal NSW Peter and Trish also travelling around Australia (who were staying at our caravan park) and just this morning had been to swim with the dolphins and seals at Baird Bay - (exactly what we were to do on Monday).
They told us the experience was fantastic, couldn’t stop raving about it which made us more anxious.
We arranged to meet up when we got back to camp for a swim.
FRIDAY 27th MARCH 2009 – STREAKY BAY S.A. – DAY 18
Nick, Lucy and I at Hally's Beach
This morning we take Lucy again for another bike ride. We clock up 4kms. And she is really used to it and loves it. It is isolated here enough that she can also run leash free (which is not so easy in Sydney) so I’m sure she is loving this travelling thing. She also has Nick’s and my undivided attention most of the time so another added bonus for her.
We come back to camp and enjoy our lunch with the most magnificent view looking out over the bay. The caravan park here is very popular and quite full but it is not that noticeable.
I spend the afternoon doing some patchwork sewing while Nick reads one of the many books he has brought with him.
THURSDAY 26th MARCH 2009 – STREAKY BAY S.A. –DAY 17
View as we look out from our van across Streaky Bay
We make a booking to swim with the sea lions and dolphins on Monday and quite like this place so decide to extend our booking at this caravan park until Tuesday, to where we head from here I am not sure.
The weather is just glorious, warm and sunny so we persevere with putting Lucy into her ‘bike basket’ as we want to ride the bike track along the beachfront. I walk with her in my bike a few times around the caravan park and give her treats along the way. Before long she is enjoying being a passenger.
We spend the morning riding and in the afternoon take drive to some of the local sights.
The roads are all dirt which our trusty Pajero has no problem with.
We head out past the caravan park and drive for a few klms. Until we get to Hally’s Beach. The ocean is so blue and the sand so white. We always thought the beaches on the East Coast of Australia were the best we had ever seen but now seeing these beaches we are not so sure!!!
The walk to the edge of the cliffs are a bit treacherous but we let Lucy off her lead and she runs and plays with us. We hear the ‘Whistling Rocks (Blowhole) just below.
A short drive further on to Cape Bauer with its rugged coast and Olive Island is easily visible on the horizon.
We drive back to town past the mangroves, boat ramp and oyster farms finishing with a lovely view of the township arriving back to camp in town for our 5 o’clock glass of wine before dinner.
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